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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    You extend the lines in a smooth curve until they reach the bow rabbet.
  2. druxey
    The usual way to use rubber cement is to coat both surfaces to be glued, allow the solvent to dry, then press the parts together like contact cement. Until you press firmly, there is wiggle room to adjust. A piece of crepe rubber works just as well as your finger! A word of caution: after some years the rubber deteriorates and turns the card brown as well as loses adhesiveness.
  3. druxey
    Very impressive. Would dampening the houtbord help prevent it splitting while shaping it?
  4. druxey
    The models I saw did not have any moulded shape under the drip edge, Mark.
  5. druxey
    Nice internal strops, Michael!
  6. druxey
    Mark: a small point about the knuckle moulding (between lower and upper counters): the lower edge of this moulding sits about an inch below the lower counter plank surface to form a drip edge. I discovered this from examining contemporary museum models. In the last photo it looks to sit about an inch above the planking.
  7. druxey
    Good suggestion, Ed. Also, might I recommend respiratory protection when dusting with talc?
  8. druxey
    Very informative and educational, as well as entertaining, Ab! Thank you.
  9. druxey
    Congratulations on your anniversary and a happy, healthy, year ahead, Alan!
  10. druxey
    Looks terrific, Michael. Take care when working aloft!
  11. druxey
    The lower photo (repeated) looks about right. I believe that it was Longridge who stated that this troublesome piece was shaped from solid rather than steam bent. I found that I had to slide that triangular piece in from above (if the hull is right side up!) and aft, down and forward, for a nice fit.
  12. druxey
    That seems weird! As you say, there is something odd going on.
  13. druxey
    The kit is just trying to give the impression that Allan's posting shows. The 'netting' in the photo is not it!
  14. druxey
    Impressive, Dan! Well done. Aren't you going to build the rest of the Yamaha models as well?
  15. druxey
    Brass often has a lacquer coating. Remove this with acetone and - voila!
  16. druxey
    You have been exceedingly productive, Alex! Beautiful hull forms and details.
  17. druxey
    If you are using nothing but straight, parallel strips, you will probably not only have difficulties but will be unhappy with the results. The only surface you can satisfactorily plank with straight strips is the side of a house. Boats aren't that shape, unfortunately. However, it's your model and your decision!
  18. druxey
    All graphic programs have a big learning curve. Might the better route be to draw manually? Handling a long, flexible drafting curve is a much quicker learning process!
  19. druxey
    Please read any (or all!) of the planking tutorials posted on this site. They should give you a clear idea of how to proceed.
  20. druxey
    I agree that, with a cast gun, boring the barrel accurately is tricky. I made a molded fixture to hold the guns consistently vertical and centered in a machine vice so that the drill entered concentric to each gun.
  21. druxey
    Good question, Dirk. The English also made repairs and replacements easier by through-bolts that were forelocked. How early this practice began, I'm not sure.
  22. druxey
    I use the MicroMark lead-free pewter. As for all casting metals, you ned to skim off the dross before pouring. I can see that the urn-shaped opening might create a bottleneck/backup, allowing cooling to occur before complete filling of your mold. If low melting point is an issue, there is always Wood's Metal - it flows at below the boiling point of water! I've no idea what blackening agent might work on it, though. Cerrosafe is a non-toxic alternative.
  23. druxey
    Congratulations on a fine result, Thunder. I remember seeing advertisements in Model Shipwright back in the '80s and wondered if the kit was as good as the photo in their ad. It is.
  24. druxey
    How unusual! I wonder why a block was used there rather than a deadeye. However, if the profile plan is 'as built', one can't argue with it!
  25. druxey
    Depending on how nicely the RTV mold is 'clamped' by the outer plaster one, the seam should be minimal. The slight seam, if there is one, is easily filed off. The finish used was a chemical one: Jax Pewter Black. Incidentally, the carronade pattern shown was the earliest one of 1782 that lacked the muzzle cup or extension seen on later ones. Another consideration is providing air vent passages in the mold to allow a complete 'fill'. Did you have such channels when you attempted to cast?

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