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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Paper patterns won't distort if the adhesive does not contain water. I use rubber cement (a thin coat on each surface, allow to dry and press together).
  2. Jaager's suggestion is a very good one, but I was thinking that the pins would be driven in all the way permanently.
  3. Ah, I see your issue. Probably the best solution might be as follows: Dry fit the false deck and mark across the middle of the bulkheads. Drill holes through the deck for small brass panel pins or similar. Soak the false deck for several minutes in warm water. (Don't leave it too long, or it may delaminate!) Apply a glue such as Bondfast to the tops of the bulkheads, then lay the the deck in place. Pin down starting along the midline and working progressively towards the edges. The small pins or nails will hold the deck in place and shape while the glue sets up. Good luck with the job. Let us know how it works out!
  4. Is this 'false deck' in one piece and of plywood?
  5. Interesting technique for minimizing CA glue issues with your bolts.
  6. Look like you fitted the garboard very neatly, especially the tricky bit at the bow.
  7. Beautiful replicas, Siggi. Not much use without a frizzen for your flint! I'm looking forward to your next maritime subject. Soon, I hope.
  8. I'm sorry to read of your health issues, Hellmut. I hope that the medical community can stabilize things and that you will continue to recover without further cerebro-vascular problems. Best wishes as you recuperate.
  9. With such an extreme 'apple cheek' bow drop planks will be inevitable. Laying out where they should come will be fun!
  10. Les; thank you for the reminder. You'll find regular safety warnings in various threads when the subjects of flammables, VOC's, particulates or other hazards come up. However, an extra 'safety' thread would not be amiss!
  11. Ed Marple's models, while beautifully made, may not be entirely historically accurate. I'd rely more on primary sources such as van de Velde.
  12. Plain or hooked scarphs in the horizontal way would be appropriate.
  13. This is a standard we can all aspire to!
  14. A custom shaped mold would be the best way to go. I've used Silkspan, wetted and stretched on a frame like watercolor paper. I then washed it white dilute acrylic to get a 'canvas' color. After putting in a backing inside the frame to support the material I 'drew' the lines of the seams on with paint and a ruling pen. When dry, I added all the reinforcements using dilute acrylic medium. (This, unlike white glue, will not dissolve when wetted.) When wetted down after removing from the frame, the material can be molded, then 'set' with more dilute matte medium. Make sure there is some form of mold release, though!
  15. The dog ate your homework? Not an original excuse, I'm afraid. Compound curves are a challenge. Had you considered molding a large piece of soaked SilkSpan and then adding the seams and reinforcements when dry?
  16. Delighted to see you return, Doris. That will be a rather large model! Looking forward to seeing your progress on this beauty.
  17. Rendering looks great, but there are some details that are inaccurate. (I'm sure it is your sources, not your error!) One, the shot locker lids extend the whole width of the lockers. They are not like port lids. Check out any Swan class build or Naiad and you'll see how this is done. The boards over the limber channels are in short lengths with finger holes for lifiting them. Inside the well is open to the limber channels, not planked in. The well door probably had some ventilation holes bored through, (as would the various platform doors, if they did not have bar or lattice vents). Hope this helps you.
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