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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Steven: That is a rather naive engraving of the procession, of which many different images were published at the time. The date of this was January 8. 1806. It must have been a cold, miserable day for this. The canopied, ostrich-plumed barge, (lower centre) is the one carrying Nelson's coffin. A more sophisticated and perhaps accurate version of this scene at Greenwich as the cortege departs is also in the RMG Collection (PAH 7324)
  2. On the other hand, perhaps a re-do of the piece if the gap is that large?
  3. I totally understand, Steven. I worked without power tools and on a shoestring for many years. A thin coat of wax shouldn't narrow your grooves. Other solutions are a coat or two of gloss varnish. I wouldn't recommend anything that is water-soluble like white glue (sorry, Mark!). Personally, I use paste wax over gesso. And I don't think soap is quite 'it' either - water soluble.
  4. Ah, yes. Th aggro of printers and scaling! My empathy on that, Maury.
  5. Gorilla glue is ghastly stuff! I had a friend who tried to fix a piece of furniture only to have it end up glued to his carpet.... Use white PVA or yellow aliphatic glues. Much better choices.
  6. Thank you all, yet again. Today's work was on the Hospital badge that is mounted high on the boat's stern over the upper transom. The pictures are self-explanatory. At this scale the paintwork is more impressionistic than accurate! I'll be refining the shell on the fore side of the badge more.
  7. Well, some progress to report. The ensign staffs are done. They were made and tapered using the usual square to octagon to round method. The trucks plus a few inches below them are painted gold. I scored around each staff to act as a stop for the paint: it was too small to mask conventionally. For those wondering why the pace has slackened a bit, I've another project to announce shortly.
  8. Ah, I misunderstood. Yes, the framing will need lateral stability when you come to fair. Even wedges of dense styrofoam should do the trick, I would think.
  9. Nice progress. I like your planking layout on the upper bow. I see McKay has drawn the wale planking thicker at the bow rabbet than the rest of the planking. This was not usual: wale planks normally taper around the bow and are the thickness of the rabbet where they land in it.
  10. Good stuff! Nice to know the kids aren't being entirely neglected....
  11. Those frames look terrific, Frank. As for keel flex, once the keelson is in and there are longitudinal such as deck clamps, the structure will be much more stable. As far as time goes to construct frames, your results are worth it.
  12. If you are a serious modeller - and it appears that you are - and can afford it, you should seriously consider a small circular saw.
  13. If I may comment again, Maurys, those lodging knees look rather 'chunky'. Check out photos of contemporary models, and you'll see that the athwartship arms are narrower.
  14. Seems like a more workable solution, both from a stability and ease of construction perspective.
  15. Do you have a small saw like a Microlux, Proxxon or Byrnes? It makes cutting dimensioned material very consistent, without the wastage that will occur with the knife-and-ruler method. It's also much quicker! For small section, you should have or make a zero-clearance insert.
  16. It probably wouldn't lay very flat with all that gunk on it! If you have The Fully Framed Model, Volume II, there is a plan of a rudder coat (British, but the French couldn't have been that different) on page 289 with description of how it was put together and installed.
  17. Thanks again, everyone. I was away this weekend, so no progress. Back agin soon, though! BTW, I did paint the tiller handhold, and like the result.
  18. Hate to say it, but Wikipedia is not always correct. Here I'm sure they are wrong, as iron below salt water will corrode.
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