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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. It will work - in theory. In order to have an accurate hull form, it means assembling the frames on the plug. This means that the inner surfaces of the frames would need to be accurately pre-bevelled and faired in order to fit the plug properly. A daunting task! If you are a highly skilled builder, it is possible; but for most mortals one of the more conventional methods of framing a model are more likely to be successful.
  2. Whether to cut in port sills before or after erecting the frames is a bit of a dilemma. If one has the discipline, temporarily erect the frames first, mark the sheer of the sills, disassemble again to cut the scores and finally reassemble permanently. That way gives one the best of both worlds. Sure, it's a bit more work, but....
  3. Nice, Magnus! Can one add more atmospheric haze?
  4. I have no idea how I missed seeing this build log until now. Terrific work, Mike! (Assume every post of yours has an extra 'like' to it now!)
  5. Basic, yes; but important! The answer will depend on the kind of glue you intend to use. I recommend ones that wash up with water. White glue (polyvinyl alcohol or PVA glue) works well with wood. Any excess can be washed off before it sets. I use a small brush to apply it with and a larger one for clean-up. Yellow carpenters' glue (aliphatic resin) can be handled the same way. Also good for wood, paper and card. If you need metal to wood adhesion, you will need to go to an epoxy glue. This is best mixed and applied with a toothpick or other disposable item. Clean up, before it sets up, is with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol). Some folk use acetone, but this is toxic and flammable. I don't recommend it for your health! Hope this helps a bit.
  6. Thanks, Jack, for describing how you keep your macaroni's edges keen. I have a number of other Pfeil brand craving tools, and can attest to their sharpness, as well as their quality, straight from the factory.
  7. A rather startling subject heading! Perhaps something along the lines of the illustration?
  8. The extra 'frames', parallel to the keel, are called hawse timbers. If you look at other framed models on this site, you will see how that works. Of course, Hahn has stylized real world framing. Usually there are four or five hawse timbers per side.
  9. Sawdust Dave: All I was trying to say was consider the idea: I wasn't pushing that you go in that direction. I certainly didn't mean to criticize your work! If you took me wrong, I apologize. Please don't immolate anyone!
  10. So, consider a little change in direction, Sawdust Dave. Do you want to leave five sub-standard models or one really good one? I know which way I jump!
  11. If that dark wood is ebony, be very careful of your lungs! I would never use it myself. Try holly or pear that is dyed black. Either bends and glues much more easily and is less toxic.
  12. Nice work so far, Hans Christian. Use a water-based glue and wash off any excess before it sets. Then there won't be any glue stains. If it's any help, I built my first big framed model (over a metre long) on my dining room table!
  13. Bitten sie: in Englisch schreiben! (Please write in English.) A beautiful result!
  14. Unfortunately, 'bad ideas' are still around and always will be. Sure, CA is a great idea for those in a rush and want a quick fix, but they are generally not interested in the longevity of their work. If you are spending months or years on a model anyway, spend just a little more time and the model will, hopefully, last for a century or more without needing extensive repair work.
  15. Have you read the 'pinned' Primer on Planking here? Usually narrow tick strips are used to measure girth at various points along the hull (in your case along the bulkhead edges). Be aware that after mathematically dividing the hull surface into bands, you will still need to finesse the resulting curves until everything looks smooth from all angles. Then you can sub-divide each band into the individual strakes.
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