Jump to content

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    12,932
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. I sent this comment to Conway: Please pass on my sincere thanks to John for having made such a significant contribution to the ship modelling publishing world. In the early days of Model Shipwright, this was my only window into what others were doing in the field. Working in isolation, Model Shipwright was a valuable tool for me as well as many others, I am sure. Every best wish to John in his well-earned retirement.
  2. An advantage of hide glue in instruments is for ease of repair: heat will reactivate the glue, making disassembly simpler, if needed. Mention of Seccotine takes me back to my childhood days: I seem to recall that it did have a slight odour, but not an unpleasant one.
  3. It takes a while to get used to read older manuscript hands. If you are interested, there are excellent free self-tutorials on the National Archive (U.K.) web site on reading earlier handwriting as well as Latin - if you want to go that far back!
  4. Alan: according to Steel, the top timbers are moulded 6½ " at the top of the side amidships and 7" along forecastle and quarter deck, not 5½" as you have it at present.
  5. Stay away from Gorilla glue! It expands and the excess is very difficult to remove on small parts. I would - pardon the pun - stick with white or yellow carpenters' glue for wood. Any excess washes off easily with just water before it sets.
  6. It is amazing what we can learn from other model-makers, as well as what one invents for oneself, when one has to! I appreciate all the model makers on this site who are willing to share their knowledge.
  7. As much meticulous attention to detail as usual, Ed! Very, very nice.
  8. Check out the planking tutorials on this site. Edge bending planks only works to a small degree.
  9. Oh, oh. I hope that isn't pirated.
  10. Hide glue is excellent for about 200 years or more. It then becomes too brittle to stand up to seasonal wood movement. (See Rob Napier's book 'Legacy of a Ship Model', SeaWatch Books - highly recommended.) It is also somewhat odorous to use!
  11. Yup, this style of model is not for the hasty or faint of heart. And it always takes much longer than you expect. However, the payoff - eventually - is enormous.
  12. Looking terrific, Albert!
  13. Bristol board comes in various weights or plies and is an excellent material if handled appropriately. Generally it will bend better in one direction that the other at right angles. It cuts nicely with a sharp blade. It is probably better to surface glue using non-aqueous adhesives, as moisture will cause buckling. If you spray the finished model with grey automotive primer to seal it, you can then use acrylic or other water based paints on it with no risk of the card buckling.
  14. I agree with Greg. Definitely professional grade! Well done on achieving this milestone, Mark.
  15. I'm not certain when it goes on display, as it was only delivered a few weeks ago, Joe. The Museum could give you more precise details about the model. I only got a brief sneak peek at it when visiting.
  16. If you go, the Naval Academy Museum has just acquired a contemporary Cruiser class model, fully rigged. Can't get much better than that, except that it's missing the wheel and capstan. Why? The new ivory import restrictions in the US prohibited its entry, even though it was clearly antique ivory! So, those parts had to be stripped off before it left England. These new regulations affect musicians (their instrument bows, for example). They don't dare go abroad to play now, because their instruments won't be allowed back into the USA.
  17. That's as shipwrightly a solution to that geometry as one can make it, Mark. Looks very good.
  18. In real life this is sewn on. However, i doubt if you'd want to go to the trouble on a model sail. The bolt rope can be carefully glued along the perimeter of the sail using white glue. This will dry clear.
  19. If you don't see inspiration at New London, check whether you are still breathing! You'll see some terrific models there. I've attended three times and have always come away inspired.
  20. Looking lovely, Ed. Are you leaving off the limber boards on the other side? If so, will you be adding fillers between the frames?
  21. Very tricky, very nice! Sometimes, if one has to clamp a U-shaped structure such as the helm port framing you've illustrated, a temporary filler piece across the open side will prevent breakage.
×
×
  • Create New...