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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Hint: If you are cutting gentle curves or straight lines with the scroll saw, I find a thicker rather than thinner blade (properly tensioned) gives better control. However, the tooth pattern must be such that at least three teeth should be within the thickness of material being cut.
  2. druxey
    Yes, E&T, the Scotch-Brite are the ones I'm using right now.
  3. druxey
    OK, OK! In my defence: I use a pair of pliers for changing blades and have never performed inadvertent surgery upon myself. I'm sorry that I ever brought the subject up, Ed! Enjoy your razor blades, ladies and gentlemen.
  4. druxey
    Recently I've experimented with abrading the metal surface before blackening in order to avoid nasty chemicals. I've been using Scotch-BriteTM radial bristle disks that are 400-grit. These disks, in a rotary tool, make short work of getting to a clean metal surface. The flexible bristles get into nooks and crannies nicely. I use the same technique prior to silver soldering.
  5. druxey
    Lovely, lovely. But Ed - with all your sophisticated tools, jigs and fixtures, you are still using a razor blade??? Try a #11 surgical blade in a surgical handle.
  6. druxey
    Apparently the articles on the 50-gun ship also appeared in book form, along with two other models by R.J Collins (Myrmidon of the 1780's and a sixth rate of the 1680's). A search on abebooks might yield you a result.
  7. druxey
    Thank you for these exhaustive test results, E&T. They are very informative.
  8. druxey
    I don't know which you are better at: model making or photography! Both are excellent, Gaetan.
  9. druxey
    Now that was a lot of work! Very nicely done, Cabrapente. I particularly like the metal strops that you've made.
  10. druxey
    Glad to be of service, Stuntflyer!
  11. druxey
    There are 5 sheets in the plan set, apparently. The how to model this subject was described in a series of 1953 Model Engineer articles by R.J. Collins. I believe that the plan set is still available (search on-line) and old copies of Model Engineer can be found on e-Bay. Happy hunting!
  12. druxey
    High density foams have been around for a while. I've used them in theatrical set construction in the past. They work very well for carving in detail but, as mentioned, are very expensive and only available in large chunks. My only reservation would be the longevity of the material, but for most folk this probably isn't a big consideration.
  13. druxey
    As I PM'd you, Mark, I just use ordinary bond paper, stretched as water-colour paper before painting it with either flat enamel or acrylic paint. When the painting is done, I cut out the pieces. Dilute white glue is used to attach the finished friezes.
  14. druxey
    Have you considered painting the frieze on paper and then gluing it over the planking? Many contemporary models did it this way. I've found it a lot easier than trying to position the model in a way that isn't awkward - or risky! - while painting the lower counter.
  15. druxey
    Superb work, Ed - but now you've made me run out of superlatives!
  16. druxey
    Interesting thread. I recall visiting an English country church in my childhood. There was an ossuary in the undercroft with stacks of both femurs and skulls. I presume these had been disinterred from the churchyard to make room for newer arrivals (think of the graveyard scene in Hamlet).
  17. druxey
    Pete is correct: in the 18th century the copper strakes started at the keel and were laid parallel to it. This results in the highest strakes running out at an angle fore and aft at the waterline. On way the sharp ends were dealt with was with a wood batten nailed along the waterline overlapping the edges of the copper. Another, probably later, way was to run the top two strakes of copper along the waterline. See the photos of a coppered model of Bellona on the National Maritime Museum's 'Collections' site that shows the earlier method.
  18. druxey
    I like your pin-holes idea for maintaining position of the square on the building board. Good move!
  19. druxey
    The other possibility is a little squirt of inert gas before re-capping. This is available in pressure canisters for the purpose.
  20. druxey
    Card, ply; it doesn't matter which material the square is made from. The important thing is that it's not made of metal, so that if it falls over on the model it won't damage it.
  21. druxey
    I don't think anyone gets this right the first - or even second - time around. Eventually you will nail it, Ben. I find that a heavy card square set up on the board aligned with the layout helps a lot.
  22. druxey
    If you are thinking of paint, spray with automotive primer first. Then paint with a yellow ochre, adding a touch of orange, white and/or burnt umber to taste. You can use acrylic or solvent based paint over the primer.
  23. druxey
    "What will they think?" That's a pretty powerful motivator, Ed, especially when you've set our expectations so high! But you've never disappointed us yet.
  24. druxey
    Sorry, folks, but I respectfully beg to differ. The planking runs at the bow don't look right to my eye. The garboard strake runs too far up the bow, causing crowding further up the bow (if it were the right way up!). See my sketch for what I think would be closer to the way it was done. Others have already commented on the plank butt scheme, which seems random to me. However, ultimately the result has to please the builder.
  25. druxey
    That last photo, with the height of the keelson, gives one a real appreciation of both the original ship's structure and your re-creation of it, Ed.

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