druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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The other method will also yield consistent slots, Toni. The only difference is that about 50% of the slotted material vanishes in sawdust! -
Now that's something I hadn't thought of: I always cut the slots first in the stock, then part off the individual pieces. Your pre-cutting the strips, then gluing them is a great idea.
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Nice dodge, drilling for the axletrees! Well done.
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Excellent, Agent P!
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19th century U S Ship-of-the-Line Rigging Plans
druxey replied to Frank Cook's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Looks like you are making good progress bringing order out of chaos. Possible sources for you might be the U.S. Naval Academy Museum or the Smithsonian. A good book on the subject would be James Lees 'Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860'. American rigging practice would be very similar. -
Congratulations! All you have to do is remove the 'bomb' shelter' over the wheel and pop her on the pedestals. She is a terrific model, Ed. Thanks for sharing her build with us here.
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Sweet! You have got the sheer curve beautifully, as well as the various round-ups on the stern. No easy task.
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Oh, yes: those railing supporters are, in the case of the outer ones, the tops of the outer counter timbers. If the inner ones align accurately with the pillars between the lights (hard to tell on your small image) then they, too are the upper ends of the inner counter timbers. If they do not line up, then they are standards on the quarter deck.
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Looks like your drawing is not typical. The tafferel (aft) is lower than usual, so that there is a bulwark forward of it to make up the height for safety. This being the case, the tafferel is the width of the blue line, as it butts up against the bulwark. The latter has its own rail, the width of which you can measure directly from the plan.
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As usual, your progress is a delight to watch, Gary!
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That's one elegant hull! Very nice progress, Clare.
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gun carrige colour
druxey replied to Ray's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I suspect this may be a 'captain's choice' decision. I'm not certain that there is a definitive answer to this question. Anyone else? -
The low areas are the basic windlass. Juan Carlos. The high areas are all thin wood added on afterwards. It's how the original was built: these wear areas can be replaced.
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HMS Euryalus by egen -
druxey replied to egen's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Your deck framing and cants for the cabin bulkheads look very good. Well done! -
Good going, Ben. You are going to switch back to your other model just when things are getting interesting??
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Just came across your log, Michiel. Very nice work indeed! Lovely model.
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The lowering capstan is a very nice touch! Brilliant.
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Very, very nice, Gary! And the riding bitt crosspieces took a lot of abuse. They had a wear strip on the aft side as well that were easily changed, as well as the main crosspiece, as you mention.
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Advice on planking? See the tutorials that are posted on this site. Lots of good advice for you there.
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You are absolutely correct: the thickness of pencil lines matters! If you draw your own plans, these should be as thin as possible. In the case of plans such as you show, it can be a problem. One test might be to know the thickness of the bulkhead material and see which side of the lines of the slots match this. If that is not possible, then I'd cut to the outside of the lines. It's easier to sand a bit more off than glue it on again!
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ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
druxey replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Thanks for answering my question, Rekon! -
Castello boxwood, Janos.
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It's the real thing, Janos.
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Whew! It's amazing what can happen in a split second of inattention or distraction. That, I'm glad to read, was NOT a disaster this time.
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An example of an octagon cut using the method I've described is shown here. The overall length of this windlass at 1:48 scale is about 4".
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