druxey
-
Posts
12,930 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by druxey
-
Also Admiralty Models sell some plans for scratch-built 18th century models. See www.admiraltymodels.com -
Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Exactly, Greg! -
Well played, sir!
-
Looks like you're doing a nice job on your model, George. I assume the line is what was supplied with the kit. That is the problem, by the look of it. I can suggest three possible solutions. One, before you rig, take the length of line and stretch it under tension. This might 'set' it, so that it loses the tendency to twist. If the fibre is synthetic it will have a 'memory', so this may not work for you. Two, make your own rope from cotton thread. There are various simple ropewalk designs (probably you can find designs for them elsewhere on this site). It is not too difficult, and will supply stable line in different sizes as you need them. The raw materials are not expensive, either! My own ropewalk is made from an old electric drill and my childhood Meccano gears, among other ingredients. Three, there are companies that supply commercially made rope for model makers.
-
This is an interesting project with a history! I'm looking forward as you continue to restore her, Russ.
-
This is looking good, Joss!
-
Ah, yes. measurements. I have a favorite cartoon that goes like this: Manager: "My philosophy is, measure twice, then cut twice, then, uh...." Underling1: "...give the tape measure a bad performance review?" Underling 2: "Hee, hee! (Pause) Ooh."
-
Love the tafferel carvings, Ed. Those blank areas are crying out for some ornamentation, though: a spray of bulrushes or reeds, perhaps? Or even a weeping willow.....
-
One way to mark out small spars is to take a strip of card stock and mark the 7-10-7 proportions on it's edge to the maximum spar diameter. As you mark along the spar, turn the card at an angle so the outermost marks coincide with the edges of the foursquare as it tapers. Pencil the inner marks on the flats at intervals. Make sure that the pencil point is very fine! That will be sufficient guide to cut the octagon accurately.
-
Life and modelmaking is often like that: one step forward, two back.... Good for you to have the courage to do a re-make.
-
Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Well, you are moving forward nicely, Maury. I'm not sure that the lowest athwartship plank should intrude down into the limber channel. It might be better to align the lower edges with the top of the limber boards. -
ancre LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
druxey replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Beautiful craftsmanship, as usual!- 662 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- bonhomme richard
- frigate
- (and 1 more)
-
This is a problem. There are obviously omitted stations in the body plan near the midships, where the lines should be very close together and dense. While what is shown is well delineated, you don't really have enough information to be certain, as neither waterlines or buttock lines are shown. If you are experienced, I suppose you could approximate the form of the ship in the middle part of the body, but it would involve a fair amount of 'by guess and by golly' work.
-
Ausgeziechnet! Terrific work and photography, Robert.
-
A more accurate proportion is 7-10-7. Another way of saying this is that the width across the spar when square at any point is 24 parts. Measure in 7 parts of the 24 from each edge and this will, when planed off at 45 degrees, give you a perfect octagonal cross-section.
-
Welcome to the 'I-cut-the-wrong-leg-of-the-line' club, Michael. You have joined a non-exclusive club, of which I am also a member. Mark - you're in as well.
-
Nice detail, Dan. However, the coat is nailed to the rudder upside down/inside out, then inverted to form a kind of loose bag up around the rudder head into the helm port opening. This gives room for movement of the rudder. You might want to consider that for absolute authenticity.
-
Echo by oneslim - cross-section
druxey replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Fillings between the floors and first futtocks were standard practice. They make a continuous solid 'floor' for the limber channels to drain water efficiently to the pumps. -
Echo by jml1083 - cross-section
druxey replied to jml1083's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Jim, you wrote: "A piece that early on was shown with great pride to friends and neighbors and anyone I met on the street doesn't pass muster a week later. I think that is called progress." Indeed it is! I think most of us have experienced this. I cringe now when I think about my early work. It'll probably be the same a few years from now about my present models! Looks like you are coming along really well. Good stuff. -
HMS Euryalus by egen -
druxey replied to egen's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Check Ed Tosti's Naiad build log photos and you will see how the sleepers and transom knees are placed. -
Sorry to read about your slipped disc, Kats. I hope you'll soon be fully functional again. Best wishes for a full recovery.
- 237 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- cutty sark
- revell
- (and 2 more)
-
Nicely done, Dan.
-
Very nice progress, Dan. I thought that the non-skid areas were fine wet-and-dry carborundum paper!
Our Emblem ®
