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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. As large a surface as you can comfortably fit in. You can never have too much bench space!
  2. I use very thin paper, well stretched, to paint on, using acrylic paint. It should mold well around the different plank levels. Also, put on in short lengths, it is easy to manage. You could pre-paint the base color over the chesstrees and fenders and simply add the detail after. As for trimming, I pre-trim the lower edges of the pieces and trim the upper edges (under the rail above) when dry. Any slight irregularity, should it occur, will be hidden under the shadow line of the rail.
  3. And 90% rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) for de-bonding white or yellow glue! We all make oopsies....
  4. All looks very nice, Mark. Good process thinking on your run of moldings as well. Hdd you considered painting friezes on paper off-model and gluing them on in sections? Many contemporary models were painted this way. It obviates the need for awkward masking or working against gravity. And, if you mess up a piece, it's easily replaced. The friezework on Comet was done this way:
  5. So many things to juggle at once! But you enjoy a challenge - don't you? I realize that some compromises are needed in this area. Have fun with it.
  6. The 'bag' or curve of the pattern appears to be almost down to the cheek in your photos. Of course it may be the angle the pic was taken at, but the Berain shows a considerable gap between the lowest head rail and the upper cheek. Perhaps more revision is in order?
  7. If you wish to do that, then trace the outline and station lines, rotate the tracing and transfer it (or glue it) to the wood with the lower edge aligned along the edge of the wood.
  8. Nice progress, HH, even if a little frustrating at times. I find that it's much easier to do final shaping of standards on channels after they are fixed in place. There is a better chance of getting them similar in profile that way. also there is no issue in holding them while you shape them. Headwork is always a bear. Your present pattern looks good. The head timbers athwartships have a bevel in order to meet the rail(s) at the correct angle.
  9. A guide as to lantern level; the door needs to clear the tafferel or it won't open! Also, it should be at a height comfortable for someone on the deck to place the light into. "Form follows function", as usual.
  10. The word 'patent' seems to have caused a stumble. It is not a model submitted for a patent, but one built to a patented design! Well done, Bruce and Patrick, in attributing the number to a particular serviceman.
  11. This is an interesting, well-built model of some age. The builder was obviously very familiar with clinker style planking. It is odd that all the internal parts are either missing (those three small screw holes) or were never completed.
  12. It seems that you have become the beta builder, Bob! I appreciate you being patient as you wait for bits and bobs to arrive. A little bird has told me that future kits will have in-house beta test builds before they go on the market.
  13. Washes are very thin transparent coats of paint thinned with either water or a solvent, depending on the type of paint used.
  14. It's called serving. It is usually done by wrapping the thread around the line on a serving machine. You can see examples of these machines on MSW and on line.
  15. I see much discussion on distance and point of view being considered, but very little on lens distortion. Camera lenses, especially earlier ones, could produce spherical distortion - and not necessarily uniformly. You need to take this into consideration as well. The angle that the camera is pointing also introduces distortion. An example of an uncorrected and corrected image from 1912 is shown here. Those pedestals are vertical - but you can see the degree of distortion produced simply by tipping the camera'a axis from horizontal. The stem is actually at 45 degrees and the stern post 5 degrees, not 10 as in the uncorrected version.
  16. Washes over a base coat as wefalck describes is really the only way to imitate wood. Again, techniques will differ slightly depending on the scale that you are working at. His radial planking at miniature scale is exceptional.
  17. Some contemporary plans show sweep ports (the proper term for those little square ports) and some do not. They would, however, be present on these small craft. Occasionally the sweep ports were circular with a small slot on each side just large enough to slide the blade of the sweep through. One could not work a sweep in a gun port; it would slide back and forth wasting effort, quite apart from the fact one would need to move all the guns - to where? The decks were crowded enough already!
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