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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    And yes, that it the right way to go about it. Use the thinnest line you can: I've used fine fly-tying brown line 6/0. usually crowsfeet look too clumsy on models.
  2. druxey
    Congratulations Toni! A very nice result. Of courser the question is, what next?
  3. druxey
    Might the downward arm of the bracket be angled even a little more to echo the converging lines of the row of lights or is it just the angle of the photo that makes it appear to slope less? Looking great!
  4. druxey
    Well, Peregrinator, you really are back now! Why would you need to stain or varnish the deck? The way it appears now looks fine. That might solve that question!
  5. druxey
    This close-up of the painting seems to show that it was 'skinned', that is to say, over-zealously cleaned at some point. Much fine detail has gone. Notice the spotty appearance of the dark paint, where the white ground is showing through and near-absence of some lines. A pity.
  6. druxey
    Love the steering gear and hammock battens!
  7. druxey
    Good progress, Meriadoc. Your mast and sail plan look rather too tall for a vessel of that size. I'm guessing that it should shrink by 15% or a little more.
  8. druxey
    Just remember that ports, unless located at midships, are not square! The WMISIYCMIC principle: (Why make it simple if you can make it complicated.)
  9. druxey
    Congratulations, Tomek. An excellent result and lovely model. I hope things remain peaceful in your neighborhood.
  10. druxey
    Peregrinator indeed with all those moves! Welcome back. Yes, a few changes since the Great Crash, including a few members who have gone now to meet Davy Jones,. However, this is still a lively place to visit.
  11. druxey
    Bienvenue ici! Welcome. Your English is good, so don't worry. If the Cutty Sark was your first model, that was very well done.
  12. druxey
    Ow! Like burning down the house to get rid of a spider.... You were lucky not to ignite the whole ship. Glad you were able to repair battle damage. Another great reason to use PVA: it can be easily dissolved in rubbing alcohol. As long as you keep open flame away from it!
  13. druxey
    A very neat, one-piece solution, Siggi. Is there a reason why the steps up to the roundhouses are offset from the doorways?
  14. druxey
    Terrific work, Gary. She looks quite delightful.
  15. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Ken. Most of us have a bottle of rubbing alcohol (95% isopropanol) handy for ungluing PVA and aliphatic glue joints. Just used some a few minutes ago! Good luck re-working your inherited model.
  16. druxey
    Lovely louvres!
  17. druxey
    Ouch. That mis-measurement hurt. Glad you were able to fix it using a tool I find very useful: The scrap box, aka the Quality Control Center. Your model is looking very good indeed, Ian.
  18. druxey
    The views down on the wrap-around balcony are very informative. Thank you for this latest installment, HH.
  19. druxey
    Coming along very nicely, Oliver!
  20. druxey
    The lower surfaces of the transom need to be parallel to the bottom of the boat. They have to join in a smooth seam. You angle off each side of the transom as in the lower photo.
  21. druxey
    Wilkommen,Thomas! Welcome aboard.
  22. druxey
    Lovely work, Chuck. I'm waiting to see how you deal with all the headwork....
  23. druxey
    A novel way of launching a ship: upside down. Oh. Picture is inverted. Just regular launch ways after all! Might you consider showing your model on the ways to present your model, Gary?
  24. druxey
    Certainly the results merited the time - and language! Well done, Chris.
  25. druxey
    Perhaps you are referring to the chesstree? It looks like a fender, but has a sheave in it for the main tack.

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