mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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As far as I can tell, the rudder groove started around 1750 and lasted for around 40 years. This seems to be one of the French experiments of which they did a lot. Unlike England, they had (if I recall correctly) 5 main designers and also a school to train for that purpose. The designers would use what worked for a ship of given size and rating and experiment. They did exchange ideas and designs so the rudder groove may not have been universal. I hope someone who knows for certain can be more definitive that what I've posted.
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Welcome to MSW, Michael, What you'll need to do is test. Put a piece into position and see if it bends. If it gets hard to bend and feels like it will break, then you can soak or soak and apply heat from something like a curling iron. The downside of not prebending is that if the glue fails, the wood will try to pop back straight. I would also suggest that you open a build log as it's a great way to get help and meet other builders. BTW, PM an Admin and work with them to change your screen name. MSW (like almost every public site on the universe) gets crawled by lots of bots and your email address is like gold to the spammers.
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Byrne's saw accessories question..
mtaylor replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
It looks to me like the kickback is way she's feeding the wood... pressing down and towards the fence which deflects the rear of the blade. I get the same result doing it that way. When pushing from the entry point (pushstick!) no kick back with minimal side force. Or, one can adjust the exit side of the fence away from the blade slightly. I also have short fence (length) attachment to my fence that basically ends up releasing the wood as soon as it's cut. The rear edge of the fence is aligned with the front of the blade and then forwards towards the exit just a "scoosh". Scoosh = very small amount. -
Building a Medieval fortress - by Waitoa - Del Prado 1/87
mtaylor replied to Waitoa's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I'm not seeing the mistakes but the figures do lend a touch of life to your diorama. -
Translation: hello, I would be interested in your sculptures on Saint Philip on a scale of 1-48, it would be possible, thank you for your reply vasicek cz He unsubscribed and is no longer a member here. By the way, this is an English language forum. Please post in English. If need to translate, Google Translate works well. Translaton: Wypisał się i nie jest już tutaj członkiem. Nawiasem mówiąc, to jest forum w języku angielskim. Prosimy pisać w języku angielskim. Jeśli potrzebujesz tłumaczenia, Tłumacz Google działa dobrze.
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Fort Duquesne was Revolutionary War not really used in the American Civil War. I'm happy to help, Roger.
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The Fokker DVII... it was supposedly the best WWI aircraft though it had it's issues. But, like the ME-262 in WWII, it was too few and too late to make a difference.
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Fort Duquesne still exists or at least the site is preserved. For those interested..... https://www.dcnr.pa.gov/StateParks/FindAPark/PointStatePark/Pages/default.aspx
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Welcome to MSW, Swallowtail. I can't add anything to what the others have said. Just be sure to enjoy the journey.
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Thanks, Kris. That all makes sense.
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Would the figureheads have been taken off when the ship was buried for some purpose, maybe burying it separately or offering it as a sacrifice to the gods? Seems odd they never found any except the one.
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Fascinating build, Hellmuht. One question from my ignorance... is the outside of the hull planked over the ropes? I'm trying to visualize how they kept the water from leaking in.
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Very interesting indeed. The diversity of cargo and the containers along with the languages is fascinating.
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Rich, Are your blades dull? Are you using the right tooth count for the thickness? There is an optimum feed speed and an optimum tooth count for every type and every thickness of wood. Generally, you should try to get 3 teeth in the cut... one going in, one in the center, and one exiting. There is a document that while written for the Byrnes saw, works well for just about every hobby table saw. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23843-byrnes-saw-reference-also-good-for-other-desktop-hobby-saws/
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Mugje, If' youi've been scratch building parts for your models, you're off to a good start. If you're uncomfortable starting scratch, start simple maybe the Triton cross-section. You don't even need to complete it, just learn how to frame, etc.
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Welcome to MSW, John.
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New Member - Ranger, Spruce Goose, Tippecanoe, The Dinghy
mtaylor replied to Chuck L's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome to MSW, Chuck. -
I didn't know that, OC. Way back in the day of my doing such things, packs were separate and sometimes things like belts and scabbards were also. But the detailing wasn't as good as it is today.
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Lovely work on the keel. As for re-making parts.... the scrap bin is always hungry and constantly needs feeding.
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I'd go with the lamp you made. It looks the part, color, shape, etc.
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Ah...well take my idea and dump in the trash bin.
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Blackening brass
mtaylor replied to Bill Hill's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
That might be the problem then. I've removed blackening by putting the parts in acetone and let them soak. I'll keep my fingers crossed that the problem is solved. -
Beautiful work, OC. Have you tried filling in the backs with putty? Or something similar?
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