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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Messerschmitt Bf 109 E3 by ragove - Matchbox - 1/32 - PLASTIC
mtaylor replied to Papa's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Sorry to hear that as she was looking so good. -
Very impressive, Marc. It no longer looks like plastic, but a work of art.
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- heller
- soleil royal
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You have my sympathies also. Like the others, been there, messed up, started over. And I'm still in that mode on my current project.
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Byrnes Sander or saw, that is the Question?
mtaylor replied to Nirvana's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I'm with Grant... this is a great plan. -
New member from Scotland, very old krabbencutter
mtaylor replied to Paul Carswell's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome to MSW, Paul. Nice work on the Krabbenkutter. -
Welcome to MSW, Chris.
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Welcome to MSW, Tensecondsdown. Is there a name we can use? If you can be patient, Amati is coming out with probably the ultimate Victory model. One of the Admins is building her and working on the instruction manual. Here's his log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25071-hms-victory-prototype-by-james-h-amati-164/ And there's this from the news... The designer is a member here, BTW. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21086-amati-164-hms-victory-latest-news/?tab=comments#comment-639774
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Welcome to MSW, Devildog 36. I'm guessing you're a former Marine from your screenname. I suggest you open a topic here in this sub forum and introduce yourself. There are some Thermoplyae builds in the kit area. Have a look at them, start your own log as it's a great way to get help and meet folks. For tools, have a look here: https://thenrg.org/resource/articles Scroll down the page a bit and you'll find some articles on tools.. both good and bad.
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I'll just do a facepalm and go stand in the corner....
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Bill, There's a good topic going on here for rigging that might help also:
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Welcome to MSW, Paulo.
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It's understandable about other things getting in the way. It is really great to see the reference documents as this should help someone else or just to add to their library.
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Brian, Don't apologize for the reasons you're building her. You found something to be passionate about and will drive you. The one thing I've learned and it applies to other things in life as it does model building.... Find the passion or the reason to build it.
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Byrne's saw accessories question..
mtaylor replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
If you haven't seen it, here's where a good bit of info on the Byrne's saw is kept: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23843-byrnes-saw-reference-also-good-for-other-desktop-hobby-saws/ As others have "respect it" and your fear will ease with use but keep the respect. -
Thanks Karl, for the video. There are photos of some of his work in the Gallery, by the way. For some reason the link didn't work to the museum. But this one does: http://www.historische-schiffsmodelle.com/ I think it's due to the "s" after "http" in your post. The museum page is well worth the time.
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Have look in the kit model build area. Lots of plastic kits and some way beyond just a simple paint job. RGL build steel navy ships and his detailing is first rate. There's others like him. What works for steel navy would work (although different colors, finishes apply).
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One other point about Napoleon at Waterloo. He was not up to it. Had (allegedly) the flu or a bad cold. Thus, his judgement was impaired. Plus, by the time of Waterloo, several of his trusted and most cunning generals were dead. I t was a battle he never should have fought. But Wellington was probably glad he did.
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Welcome to MSW. For a have hull sub, we have one model being built: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20268-u-552-type-viic-submersible-by-yvesvidal-trumpeter-148-plastic/ I've seen half fuselage aircraft back as kid and visiting the Air Force Museum in Dayton, Ohio. It could be done but there would a lot of scratch building. There's are some models of bombers with very detailed interiors that could be done that way. Look in the Non-Ship Models area in Shore Leave. Here's a good article on picking your first wooden ship: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/ As for questions about finishes, etc... the answer is "it depends". Depends on the model, your tastes, and other factors.
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I'm sorry to read this as it was looking good. But, like Chris said, we've all binned our share of models.
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- saito
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As far as I can tell, the rudder groove started around 1750 and lasted for around 40 years. This seems to be one of the French experiments of which they did a lot. Unlike England, they had (if I recall correctly) 5 main designers and also a school to train for that purpose. The designers would use what worked for a ship of given size and rating and experiment. They did exchange ideas and designs so the rudder groove may not have been universal. I hope someone who knows for certain can be more definitive that what I've posted.
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Welcome to MSW, Michael, What you'll need to do is test. Put a piece into position and see if it bends. If it gets hard to bend and feels like it will break, then you can soak or soak and apply heat from something like a curling iron. The downside of not prebending is that if the glue fails, the wood will try to pop back straight. I would also suggest that you open a build log as it's a great way to get help and meet other builders. BTW, PM an Admin and work with them to change your screen name. MSW (like almost every public site on the universe) gets crawled by lots of bots and your email address is like gold to the spammers.
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Byrne's saw accessories question..
mtaylor replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
It looks to me like the kickback is way she's feeding the wood... pressing down and towards the fence which deflects the rear of the blade. I get the same result doing it that way. When pushing from the entry point (pushstick!) no kick back with minimal side force. Or, one can adjust the exit side of the fence away from the blade slightly. I also have short fence (length) attachment to my fence that basically ends up releasing the wood as soon as it's cut. The rear edge of the fence is aligned with the front of the blade and then forwards towards the exit just a "scoosh". Scoosh = very small amount.
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