mtaylor

John, For this, you're choices are spiling or bending... or a bit of both. Chuck's system works very well... I checked Youtube and he must not have loaded it up there. He basically heats the wood until pliable and then bends it using clamps to a table top and let it cool. I do it a bit different in that I soak the wood for a bit and then use an old curling iron to bend and shape. Lots of ways to get the same place. Edit: Found them... These really need to be put some place on the site..... Edit of the edit... I just posted these to the Planking sub-forum. I hope they help.

I'm finding that the more I do, the more I'm willing to try on this ship... Not sure if that makes sense, but truly is a journey. I'll need to make several measurement per beam and adjust the ends as needed.. pretty much customize each one to fit the hull shape. Not just the angle for the meeting the hull horizontally but also vertically due to the tumblehome. It should be interesting. All that jig does is give me the flat spot I need and beam thickness at the clamp. The MM R8 is the same as the Sieg except for motor power and the Little Machine Shop has a rigid post. The smaller mills MM sold are, shall we say, illegitimate step-children? There was almost nothing they sold that fit them easily. Sherline isn't out of the running but I need to re-examine their offerings. I really would like to have the drill press feature as my drill press sits in the corner, on the floor since there's no bench space for it. HMS Visa is recovering but if things work out for a trip to the NRG Meeting, she'll back in drydock afterwards. If things don't work out for the trip... the mill is mine.. bwahahahahaha.... I think you're right on his tool, Grant. Vote acknowledged.

You might try asking about flags and sails here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/16-masting-rigging-and-sails/ Some use cloth (thin or well worn sheets with a high thread count) and others use paper products.

Nice save, Al. A lot better than ripping off planking.

Thanks for the "likes" and comments. I didn't get to where I wanted to be today, but clamps are on 2 out of the 3 decks that need them. Spales are "in work". Richard, The Sieg is made by the same folks that make the MM mill. There are differences but both use the R8 taper for the chuck or collets. The accessories (other than collets and chuck) should fit those and the Sherline and the LittleMachineShop mills. The only thing I'd have push out the door with this mill is the collets as the holder is an MT1 taper. All the other accessories will go either way. I'm thinking the way you are.. drilling also. I don't need a pivoting head, like MM as that does add some play.... I'm still on the fence.

That's true in today's world with insurance, etc. The ships going near Somalia were using hired guards who brought their own weapons. I'm not sure when it became common for merchant's to not carry weapons... late 1800's maybe?

Good luck on the carving of that crown, Chuck. I did some cutting at 1/32" and carving can be done, but just use an extreme light touch. Beautiful work on this barge.

HI Walt, This may have more info that what you want, but here's a link: http://www.pettigrews.org.uk/lm/page030a.htm There is an excellent article in the database here:http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-masts-and-yards.php There's also these: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12265-mast-shaping-help/ http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12533-working-the-masts/ http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2876-octagonal-spars/ http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2128-octagon-portion-of-a-yardmast/

Just "Wow!!!!!!!!", Grant. She's an eyecatcher.

I'm with John. Just fantastic, Patrick.

It's good that you got over the cold, Siggi. They can be nasty in the summer. I think this is beyond a captain's barge.. Maybe an admiral's barge? Incredible work, Siggi.

Grant, It's probable. EdT had some in his Niaid log that were made from wood with brass fittings. I just went for what I had handy. Maybe something like a spale type of measuring tool???

Fascinating article. I just wish it had more info as to the "why?". Seems as long as there have been merchant ships, they've been a target by pirates, various warring parties and were usually armed. Even today, many are still armed around the Somali coast.

I can only imagine what the guys printing that cannon thought. I had to look to find it those pictures with the scale. Very impressive work on that.

Wow.. super nice masterpiece, Daniel. I trust it's on it's way, then?

I started installing the deck clamps for all three decks... pictures will be forthcoming. I'm also making some tools/jigs. The first is an inside measuring tool. I put this one together as a test, I could make it fancier and neater, but it works. It's just a strip of wood with a miniature clothes pin (peg) glued on one side. There's 4 small strips for guiding the slider and there's two sliders of different lengths to allow me to measure from the narrowest part of the hull to the widest so I can cut the deck beams to fit properly. The next one is just a simple jig. Hahn's plans show a line indicating the top of the beams (bottom of the deck planks). So.... I worked backwards a bit when setting up the frames and put in tabs 1/4" (6.35mm) down from the line to place the clamps. My clamps are 1/8" (3.17mm) thick and the beams are 3/16" (4.76mm). To get the beams to the right height, I need to remove 1/16" (1.5mm) from the ends of the beam where they sit on the clamp. Yeah.. I know, complicated, but having had issues with measuring down into the hull and then lining up the clamp with the marks, I thought this would make life easier. It did. But the result is this jig. It's simple two pieces of scrap wood glued together with one being 1/16" taller than the other. The beam goes into the jig as shown in the last picture and can be marked or cut using it. It'll work for the narrowest to the widest beam as the arc is uniform across the beam. A nice side benefit is that I end up with a flat spot on the end of the beam for gluing it to the clamp. I'm making some spales at this time using the same method Grant used in his Granado group build..... only a bit smaller. Lord a willin' and the creek don't rise, I should have all the clamps in some time tomorrow. Maybe even some beams fitted... We'll see.

Seeing the detail in this makes my brain hurt. Keep up the great work Daniel.

Glenn, What Zoltan said... welcome back. There was crash back in 2013 that completely trashed the site. What you're seeing here has been done since the site started again.. from scratch.

John, Pop those questions in Painting and Finishing area as I have no idea about sanding sealer or the various finishes and stains.. I'm a pure Wipe-on-Poly type myself. Here's a link to it: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/21-painting-finishing-and-weathering-products-and-techniques/

Just beautiful, Augustus. The wood choices you made are really working well together.

Looking good, Michael. Red Oak does have a grain problem but it s a pretty wood, in my opinion. I think once you final sand and put on a finish it'll look really great.

Glenn, Have you contacted Amati or Victory models? Cornwall Model Boats might sell this... not sure.

Nice work on the wheel, Bug. The stain makes it pop.

Short answer.. yes.

Your first attempt looks fantastic, Giampiero