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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. It's been awhile since I've looked in, Ron. Life and all that. You Endeavour is looking great. Very impressive.
  2. I'm wishing you luck, Steven. Druxey is spot on about the grain being straight and about the wood doing what it wants. I've had some that practically went into a pretzel. What kind of wood are you using?
  3. I hadn't seen that site, Dan. Interesting place so I bookmarked it and will also see what's there.
  4. Dion, I too wish your wife a speedy recovery. No rush on your build from me. Family comes first.
  5. Dan, Did you see this post? http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12754-american-ship-building-company/?p=388537
  6. Jesse, Battle damage in the shipyard happens to all of us... I just hope you found all the parts.
  7. Uh-oh... you're not adding an ice rink on top are you? A hot tub would be nice but it would be a bit cold getting there.
  8. Cool... not only are you an excellent carver, you're fast. I can't wait for the update, but I will... <twiddles thumbs><whistles><looks innocent>
  9. If the blades are loose, a strip of that magnetized rubber works well.
  10. Congratulations, Tim. She looks super. I guess the model tech has come a long way in 10 years, hasn't it?
  11. This is great news, Tom. I was hoping you'd restart it. I'm reclaiming my chair in the Peanut Gallery.
  12. Tom, What's the TPI on the blades? Are you using a zero clearance insert on the scroll saw? I have 2 different blades I use for the thin stuff.. One is from Sawbird.. #3 Double Tooth Reverse (the teeth at the bottom dont' cut on the down stroke but on the up stroke. These are 20 TPI but I think they may have some with a higher tooth count. The other type is from Olson.. Skip Tooth #400 with 33 TPI Hope this helps.
  13. Ken, I'm late with this... I'll look into that for the next ship. I'm kinda' locked into this method for the rest of the glazing, I think.
  14. Looking good, Mobbsie. Try this.. think backwards. If you look at the plank on the ship it looks straight and flat, right? But when you pull it off, it's wide at one end and narrow at the other. And, the plank has curve on the flat plane if you push it flat on the bench. The catch is how to make that plank match that curve. Now, try taking a piece of cello tape that you can write on and stick it on the hull where you want the next plank to go. Mark the edge of the existing plank and remove the tape. When you stick it down on the bench or a piece of wood, you'll see the curve. Then mark off the plank with your measurements for width and connect the dots with a curve. It really is and it really isn't that simple. But once you figure it out in your mind's eye and have done it, there will be a moment... a big smile and the light is on.
  15. Jeff, They also make more than mini-drills. Do a search either here or on Google, you'll see what I mean. Also, one of our sponsors here at MSW is a dealer: http://www.proxxontoolsdiscount.com/
  16. Ah.... have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10379-windlass-on-1815-revenue-cutter/ I think that will answer most of your questions. As for the pipe or hatch.. I would think hatch for rope.
  17. Bug, I think this will mean a lot not only to Diane but to the rest of us here at MSW. I'm sure that Augie would agree that Confed is in very capable hands. A fitting tribute and memorial to a wonderful human being and a great friend.
  18. SOS, By anchor winch... can you show a picture? Maybe give us an era? Steam or manual? Modern or old?
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