mtaylor

That is a great looking stand.

Eric, I used "extra coarse" 80 grit, flexible fingernail files from a beauty supply house. Then after "close" went to 100 grit files and then 180 grit files. They're flexible and when they wear out, I toss them. I'm getting them for something like $.50 per file as my Admiral is a "member"... one doesn't have to be a professional to be a member. I've also used sticky back sand paper from the DIY place with the same grits but applied to 1/16" plastic sheets. The sheets are flexible and I've had them for years. I don't remember where I got them.

I don't know how you did those lanterns but they are fantastic, Siggi.

Thanks for the "likes" and the comments. I cleaned up the bow area where at the beakhead to get it straight and plumb. I'm just about finished sanding the inside.. still have some tricky areas to clean up. I'm also working on the stern which is a horse of a different color. I've thinned it out some more, and am looking at the way the taffrail fits (it doesn't but that's very fixable), the carvings on the taffrail and the trim (for lack of a better word) above and below the windows. The framing where the taffrail sits is quite what I hoped for so I'll be removing it and replacing it using some pieces copied from the plans and cut with the laser but I think I want to try re-shaping it before I start cutting things away. I'll show the process later when it's done. On those trim pieces, it appears Hahn used two types of wood for each of these, but I'm giving it some thought as many of the French ships have one solid piece that's been shaped using a scarper. Also, I'm in disagreement with some of the carvings.. more research needed. I'm also removing selected bits of the framing between the cut-line and the build board for access. Umm... David... it's got one coat of wipe on poly on it. I don't think it's fungus, Tony. When the sawdust was mixed with the poly is when it went black. And not every "batch" of sanding dust/poly went black in the gaps. That's the weird part. But, for now, I'm not going to worry about it.

Dave, Have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/901-uwek-triton-build-re-post-by-mod/ Ewe describes the jig. There's a lot of different ways of jigging up the frames. Almost as many as there are builders it seems.

Wayne and Tadeuzsz, I owe you both an adult beverage for that. Now I got it..

In the database, there is a good article by John Tilley on sails: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-rigging-and-sails.php

Don, Left hand side of the page... there's a down-arrow with a line underneath it. Check the boxes that appear (as appropriate) and hit the button.

You might also try PM'ing BobF as he's the SeawatchBooks guy.

Looking good, Matti. To edit your title, go back to the very first post and hit "edit". Then hit "use full editor". Then you should be able to change the title.

Dave, You boat is looking great. Nice, clean work. We all make mistakes and it looks like you either didn't make any or did an excellent job on recovery.

Cheerful is looking great, Erik. As well as the build boards. You know there's a saying about "mother nature abhors a vacuum". She also hates unoccupied space in the work area.

Looking good, Mike. The lighting does give it an "old" look that's interesting. Use all 800 lumens or better and still don't have enough light. Maybe one of these days... rip out the wiring and redo all the lighting. Looking at the photos, I suspect you won't need a lot of sanding for fairing the hull....

As one bogged down in Life.. it is always getting in the way.... I know that one well, Nenad.

Remco, Yoiu might give some thought to touching up using an archival black pen. I've seen some others use this to cover. I can't say it's perfect and will stay black, however. I did use one on my Triton cross-section where some of the ebony was "blotchy"... not pure black, and so far it seems to be staying black but it's only been 5 years on that.

Looks like a great plan, Ray. I'm pulling up a chair for this.

Jim, We are our own worst critics. I know I'm the most critical of my own work, but I'm trying to back off the self-critical part... maybe just a bit.

Are the "stops" then the same thing that many of us have been calling "sills"? Between the frames and not completely covered by the planking? I was also under the impression that with full lids, the planking would stop short of the sides (linings or frames). The lid when closed would end up flush (or nearly flush) with the planking.

MDF is hard, I used a sawblade that I wax down with beeswax every 10 or 15 strokes. Also, the dust is toxic so cut outside, or wear a mask and run a vacuum while cutting. A scroll saw works well but it does eat the blades, even waxed if you're cutting a lot. As I recall, I went through 2 blades on my build board. The problem isn't the wood fibers but the glue binding the fibers together. If you can, check the store where you get your wood and see if they have a small piece of scrap you test with.

I can't comment on the size, but a lot of the hobby places carry it. I've used it and it works. Just make sure you don't get warped pieces which seems to be a big part of the offerings lately.

On spiling.. if you line off the hull per the tutorials at bow, the planks will need a taper. If it gets too 'thin' on the taper, a drop plank will be needed. At the stern, if the needed planks get too wide, stealer time. The tutorials are a big help and about the only difference is the method in laying out the runs of the planks. On plank width... shoot for a plank length around 28-32 feet or so... It's going to vary from place to place depending on what was available at time. Width could be 6" to 12" wide... again, depending on what was available. Crackers... microwaving works but you'd best move it to the workshop as the planks cool down fast, in my experience. I've been using the curling iron method which works for me. I'm trying the Chuck heat gun method but so far, I don't have the hang of it.

You can taper to a fine point, but that's just not realistic. In the real world, you would need at least one nail/trunnel/whatever there to hold the end down. The usual rule of thumb (rules are made to be broken...) is to not taper more than half the plank width... but see about rules made to be broken.

Keith is right...laser cutting is the wood equivalent of a cutting torch.

Druxey, In my "scrap" and "misc" piles, I have pieces that I soaked and bent with a curling iron set to "MAX". The pieces are still bent after several years. I did do some steambending way back on my Constellation but the parts on the ship and I'm not finding any scrap... so that's inconclusive.

Then that's the way you should build them. Everyone builds differently and for different reasons. Go for it. Open a build log and we will follow. Edit: I forgot about this one... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10558-sponge-diving-boat-trechandiri-tirhandil-by-mhmtyrl-mehmet/ Lots of character.