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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Thanks for the "likes" and the comments on the windows. I hope it helps someone. I would advise that you definitely test on a dummy/scrap window before trying the real thing.
  2. It warped the long way, Greg which would be the normal direction as the grain runs from side to side. If I had turned the wood 90 degrees to cut it, it would have warped sideways. Then again, I'm wondering if the Euro Boxwood itself.. I have some more and the thinner stuff is warping. And I agree, cutting the small bits like windows, even the nameplate on the rear would be pretty darn hard.
  3. Piet, Your work is inspiring if I may use that word. I see what you do and it kicks me to push harder. I love your anchors.
  4. Edwin and all, By all means extend a courtesy to the log owner and get permission. First, I think they would appreciate knowing that someone thinks enough of their log to download it. Second... as Chuck said, "you should ask permission first".
  5. Buck, IF it's less than 25 pages (I think that's the limit) there's icons at the lower left hand corner of the page. One is printer that lets you print. The other lets you download. There's a topic here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/345-how-to-save-or-print-your-build-log-or-other-posts
  6. Wonderful stuff, Daniel. If you're happy, we're happy.
  7. Hi Mehmet, I like the name on it also. It adds a personal to touch to a well-used boat.
  8. Bob, Are there any drawings showing the interior at this area? I'm wondering if they needed some extra space for the cabling they were laying. That is a strange looking box though and there appears to be some sort of piping/grating over the top, like a hopper.
  9. There is a new one coming at some point by VictoryModels/Amati : http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/985-amati-and-chris-watton/
  10. Congratulations, Grant, on a wonderful voyage and a great build. She looks super nice in her new home.
  11. It was a first time for me also David. I've always used acetate and it just never looks "right".
  12. These all good plans, lad. I'd say, pick one and run with it. Since it is a corner, check ye plans and see if the inside or outside planking attaches to it. That will add strength to the corner. As we know,the stern was the weak point on these vessels... A raking broadside astern was a terrible thing.
  13. A very clever solution, Christian. I never thought of that with regards to a dowel even though I've done similar to large planks.
  14. I looked that over... nice concept but... the acrylic hull/viewports makes me nervous and there's no maximum dive depth listed. I like it and it would be great for me, a couple of minions in spiffy uniforms and a white cat to get to the dead volcano island.
  15. Looks like marine diesel to me, Patrick. I don't think I'd try to put the Caterpillar logo on the rocker cover, however.
  16. So far, so good, Sean. Looks good from over here in the cheap seats... If you haven't done so, have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/540-how-to-add-pictures-in-your-posts-and-pms/ I think you're missing a step about "adding to post".
  17. Mediocre representation?????? What??? I don't think so, sir. Looks great to my eyes.
  18. I like the way the badges turned out, Pat. I suspect you're right about the way the shutters were hung. Any other way would put some added stress on the hardware. Nice metal work on the guns. I'm looking forward to seeing how they turn out.
  19. The little things we never think about and then we see someone else do it and...as others have said... the light goes on.
  20. Hi Jose, thanks for the comments. I used Coreldraw to create a drawing and cut the windows out using the laser cutter. They're 1/32" thick (roughly 0.5mm) and the munnions and outside framing are the same. In the photo, the frames are on top and you can see the size by comparing them to the dime in the picture. To glaze them, I used MicroMark's Micro-Glaze. It's a white liquid that when dry is is clear and thin. Because the wood is so thin, I had to change the way I did it from the instructions because the frames warped badly. I put the window frame on a piece of polyethylene bag (the stuff sticks to everything else including glass) and filled the openings with the glazing. I put another piece of bag on top and then a piece of thick, heavy plate glass on top. I let it sit for 24 hours and remove the top glass and bag. At this point, the glaze was "set" but not dry and still white. I left off the bag and glass until it was almost clear. At this point the wood would start to warp again and I'd put the glass back on for another 12 hours or so. I hope that helps.
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