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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Adam, I'm the same way.. Popeye is an inspiration. I don't know how he juggles all those builds and keeps each one fresh and different. Me... I'd end up one big mess on the workbench.
  2. Oh how time flies when we're having fun..... Ok.. got the shop back into shipyard mode and I'm working on the gunports. I have to thin the frames down some (to 1/16" at the ports) so that their wide enough... Done!!!! I then have to put in the sills, paying particular attention to the location at each end of the each sill. I still check each one. So far, 6 have been done. I also check each one with check tool made from some yellowheart. Actually not made. Turns out the pen blank I bought as a sample to see what yellowheart looked like was about 1/64" inch too big. A quick bit of sanding and it's perfect for the job. I'm scratching my head as Hahn made most of his ships in 1:96 and just a few in bigger scales. How the heck did thin the frames for the ports or get the level of detail he got, I'll never know. Anyway.. the pic. And like the rest of us, right now I'm hating the macro setting.
  3. That is one small dinghy. Looks to me like Plan A has a good chance of success.
  4. Kevin, Just going on what I Googled.. it should work for scratch building. It's very similar to the MicroMark table saw which I find is adequate. My MM saw uses a 3-inch blade compared to the Byrnes 4-inch and doesn't have nearly the power. It's also not as accurate. But.. the Byrnes is the Rolls-Royce of mini table saws. Given that you're using a timbering kit, the saw will be useful once you get the hang of it and figure out it's quirks and strong points. And if I were to buy a new saw to replace the one I have.. I'd probably opt for the Byrnes though I do have a pile of accessories I'd have to toss in the bin.
  5. Beautiful work, Siggi. I do like what you've done.
  6. I've got a small chunk and Joe is right... it's not boxwood. A bit grainy. I've seen some use it for Nelson Checker (the yellow part) and other bits and pieces.
  7. I'll give you link to all the topics in this area.... <evil grin> http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 Seriously, it's a matter of personal choice. You're the captain and it's your ship. As for size... depends on the scale.
  8. I'm happy to see that you were able to fix the cat damage. Well done.
  9. I'm wondering if it's silver maple? Hard, almost pure white. Has been used as a substitute for holly.
  10. Sadly, it appears the news is true about the owners. I couldn't find any info/news on the company when Googling. So... I suspect that the supplier info is correct. Edit: No website listed. They produce products (weathering powders, other items) used in Model Railroading so there was more of a product line than Blacken-it.
  11. Nenad, The billboads protect the hull when the anchor is raised and stowed.
  12. Which witch is which, I wonder. Oh well... The doors looks excellent given the shapes you're dealing with. I quite agree with Keith about them.
  13. Crap. My apologies Nigel. I thought EdT did the nailing. I'll go stand in the corner and write "check before posting" 100 times.
  14. I'm low dollar on my solution.... a shop vac that gets moved from one tool to another.. Others used a bigger system with hard piping, etc.
  15. I don't have the site marked but there's a film of the Niagara (mockup) being shot at with a carronade and using Styrofoam dummies. The damage from splinters is incredible. edit: found it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfsuIaTU92Y
  16. Bill, There's a bunch of these in the Kit Build Log area. You might have a look there.
  17. John, Please open your own build log. That way you're not hijacking this log and it will be less confusing.
  18. For my little table saw, I use a couple of largish chopsticks. They're dirt cheap, sacrificial, and being bamboo, pretty tough. For the big saw, it's couple sticks of fir I picked up at Lowe's in the so-called "scrap bin". Got them for I think 25 cents apiece.
  19. Looking great, Dave. I guess there's a certain pucker factor that starts when you begin to bottle it until you're done. Marvelous work and planning.
  20. I'm with John... nice looking planking. I think once you sand out the clinkering on the first layer, you'll be ok. Nigel has probably the best solution for the second layer.
  21. Nigel, Sorry to hear about that. What some, like EdT do is build the gratings, mill/sand to shape for the deck curvature, etc. Then drill and add the copper. They then file down the copper and blacken it. I think he sometimes does the last several steps (shaping, drilling and coppering in situ. I'd have to go back and look at his Naiad to be sure.
  22. Kevin, You might verify with The Lumberyard, but you get plankings (deck hull), coamings (but not the gratings), railings, carving wood, waterways, wales, deck clamps, sills, ledges, and carlings. Basically just the hull. You'll need to source stock for all the masting, rigging line, blocks, guns, grates, etc.
  23. I'm tossing this one out. It may not help anyone outside the States but I've spent some time on it testing it and it seems to do what it's advertised to do... find a supplier(s) for a given species of wood. Do note that the hobby type operations, Micromark, Model Expo, The Lumberyard, etc. are NOT part of this. But it will lead you places you can get billets and even milling. http://www.woodfinder.com/
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