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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Richard, I think we all need that from time-to-time. I've not built the full hull version but I do try to stop by these logs as they are a source of inspiration.
  2. Mike, You contact the seller of the kit or AL? Might be that the plans didn't get tossed in the box.
  3. Randall, Good to hear about your progress. You might try using a hair dryer on the ebony once it's in the jig. Depending on thickness, that stuff is a bear to keep from springing back. Might even take a couple of soakings. I know it did for my Licorne.
  4. Richard and Guy, Here's part of the problem.... MSW crashed. We lost all the background work and discussion along with almost all of the 3D renderings. Very few of the Triton full-builds have been done and there are some differences from what you see in the prints compared to say.. a Hahn print. Russ, I think, is the only one left who was involved and wasnt' involved towards the end of the project. Needless to say, I'm not sure how much help being in the Scratch area you'd get. Wang Shuo is the only log I can see with the completed full-build. The angles.. yes, as I recall that is the angle from the keel. Come in close on this but match the build board drawing for framing. Much of what happens on the model, happened on the full size: cut and rough shape, offer up the build, re-shape, re-offer... when close enough, fit and final shape. It's a process. Sometimes slow, sometimes agonizing, but always rewarding.
  5. I'm curious here.... if you made the pedestals to divert you from planking, what's the planned diversion during ratting...?????
  6. You're making some nice progress, Lextin. Have you sorted out your RC rig yet for sail and rudder control?
  7. I have the MicroMark. It's NOT a production sander nor is its precise. By precise, there's no real way of pre-setting your thickness. However, it will handle just about any wood you want if you don't try to take off too much at once. I bought mine before the Byrnes was available. In hindsight... I would by the Byrnes. The problem is, I don't need one that much, but when I do, I really need it.
  8. The MicroMark is very similar to the one's I've seen at the home improvement stores. You might take a trip to Lowe's or Home Depot (check their websites to make sure they have it) to see what they look and feel like.
  9. My workshop is in the house also. I use a small shop vac and attach to whatever power tool I'm using. However, some things, like the thickness sander are only used outside. At the build board, the vacuum is used several times an hour if hand-sanding. I also have a paint brush handy to sweep up everything on the bench. I still get dust in the room but once a week, everything gets a good wipe down/vacuuming.
  10. Have look at this link: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php In fact the Ariticles area is full of useful bits..
  11. Careful there Hamilton. You're about to enter "The Darkside". Super looking pumps and bridle port lids.
  12. CNC....????!!!!!!! Fantastic. I like that idea a lot. Hmm.... have to look into CNC for my lathe. I would save my wrists, arms and every part would be a match.
  13. Matti, Since you are detailing the sculptures, think about bending first and then painting, otherwise the paint might crack when they are bent. It did on mine and I had to retouch everything.
  14. I love that kitchen. I'm going to use yours as a reference when I build the ones for my ship.
  15. Sweet work Aldo. I'll bet you never thought you had it in you. But then again, most of us don't know if we do until we try. Carry on, sir..... doing great!!!!!!
  16. Thanks for all the likes and comments. I've changed over to 2-part epoxy as the fumes seem to be less. But I do keep the window open and fan blowing. I'm still on the first strake on the starboard side. I've ripped it off twice now and am putting it on a third time. Just didn't quite match the other side in curvature. Hopefully, the third time is the charm.
  17. You pointed out the two forward tubes that fire abeam, but from the pictures, it doesn't appear that there are external doors for them. As for front tubes, a door does not have to be hinged. Submarine forward torpedo tubes come to mind on this. It could slide back, up, or down. Now again, given the time period, it's possible that fore tubes firing forward might have been removed and a plate welded over the opening as Andy suggests. Are there any plans showing the interior fittings at that level? Without knowing what's there, maybe the best way is just to show a plate.
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