mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Pear, cherry are both nice woods. Even boxwood, swiss pear or maple. I guess it depends on the effect you want.
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Jason, There's reports where the loaders were hanging out the ports and some paintings show this. The amount of room for recoil is a function of space available as well as the amount of time to get the gun back into battery. I don't think they would try to train one of the fixed battery guns for a moving target. A pivot gun maybe. But that's a lot of weight to try to move. Larry, I agree about doing the best they could. Everyone does... sometimes fate plays a hand. Heat is a problem. Slow fire weapons, maybe not so much but then again, the heat would take a bit to radiate out of one of those barrels. A machinegun is a different critter as is rapid fire with a M-xx or AK, etc (pick your model). I've had MG barrels glowing red. The blast out of the touchhole shouldn't have been that bad due to the restrictive size of the hole, from what I've seen. Maybe someone who's actually live fired one could weigh in.
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Ron, Nicely done on the pumps. And everything is so clean and crisp. You're raising bar...
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Model Shipways Mayflower solid hull kit, c1956
mtaylor replied to Tidbinbilla's topic in Wood ship model kits
I know nothing about that kit. Given its age, the wood is probably dried out and possibly the fittings are in a bad way. Maybe not. However, the best way to get help when you need it and encouragement when things go wrong is to open a build log. Here's a helpful link to get you started: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/53-before-you-post-your-build-log-please-read-this-starting-and-naming-your-build-log/ -
Ah, JP... you're taking the "1 part=1model" approach and doing a darn fine job of it.
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The drawing looks like the fixed end goes to a yard or the mast behind it. I'd follow Kester's advice on it though.
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Rob, I know there's some who have used it. I found 5 possibilities when searching from the main page and most are in builds. Here's two external links that should help in giving you an idea about this wood: http://www.wood-database.com/ http://www.dlumberyard.com/wood.html - go to "wood samples" I have a couple of pen blanks I bought as a test sample and so far they look good.
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Welcome home. I hope all is well with you and your family and that you get to stay with them for a bit before shipping out. Looks to be an interesting build and all. By the way, the Shore Leave area has a model railroad section started.
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- stadacona
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Great job on the cheeks and carvings. I'm hoping I can do half as well on mine as I agree with what you said about the carvings.
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One end is fixed (the end without the arrow), in this case to another yard. The other end goes to the belaying pin. There are two with the same number, one the port and one to the starboard. Same line, but on different sides.
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Some use a clear lacquer (matte) to finish it after the sails are set with starch or fabric sizing.
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Costas, If you're using a Windows based machine, just use Paint to resize them.
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Augie, What's the OS and the browser? What's different? Toolbars? Updates?
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Nicely done on getting the ports and paint squared away.
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Rats... I hit the "like" limit. Nice update Sjors. And I am extremely happy you and Anja are with us. Meantime, I'll await your next update.
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Good on you, Augie, for the repair and the pun. Pity about the lack of pictures, but sometimes... hmm... maybe the forgetting was "intentional"???
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Piet, If you get a chance, could you post this jig in the Tool Making and Jigs area http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/17-wooden-tips-and-tricks-and-making-jigs/??? I think it would be good for others to see.
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Feel free to name names... you got quality, let everyone know. Nice work on the guns.
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Sorry I missed the hotel fun.. but they have microwaves. Soak the wood for a bit and then wrap it in a wet paper towel. Nuke it for 30 seconds (timing may vary) an bend away. Hold until the bend is set. I've done more than few planks this way while away from home.
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Meredith, There in is a big problem, especially when we talk power tools on a world wide forum. Shipping, customs, even ability to pay via credit card, etc. are just the surface issues. Power conversion is often not thought about. Some use 50 Hz, other use 60 Hz. The mains voltages are different. A transformer might work, but ultimately it can cause problems with the frequency is different. A US designed motor is for 60 Hz. At 50 Hz it will run slower and often hotter due to loading, etc. Go the other way, and the motor runs faster and can have mechanical issues as it will spin above the design rating.
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Richard, At best, whatever you do below decks would have to be considered an educated guess or a reconstruction. As I recall, there wasn't much available when these plans were laid out. I think you're on the right track using the TFFM books. Other sources might be some of the AOTS books for frigates of the period. At least you'll have a good idea of where put the cabins, storerooms, etc.
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As I recall, Peter was on MSW 1.0 and did some build log work on one of their models to get some feedback. I wonder if he's here on MSW 2.0?
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Love it!!!! We'll clean this part up later so the links have prominence.
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Matt, I think the teak might have too much grain for the planking. Test it next to the Jarrah. Go with the one you like best.
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Post the links here... if we get more than few, we'll pin the topic. Plastic hints and tips only please. Might just remove the "painting" from the title however.
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