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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Chris, You could be right on the time frame... especially if converting le Commerce de Marselle into L'Orient. Is that even possible? Or will you end up reworking the plans completely? Hmm.. daunting and fascinating at the same time. BTW, I'm hoping you'll build L'Orient as she was before the Battle of the Nile and not afterwards. Though I suppose an interesting diorama could be done of that.
  2. So you're using bulkheads instead of frames? Post a pic and lets get a look at the problem.
  3. Roman and Joss, Interesting discussion on the gunport/position placement. The rule may not have hard and fast for the French as well... On Licorne, quarterdeck guns are placed between the ports on the gun deck. On the foredeck, however, they are directly over the bridle port. I've done a quick search on other sites and it seems the rule was applied but in the case of Licorne, it wasn't. Interesting to say the least which makes me think the bridle port may have empty.
  4. Spencer, I'm not sure I understand the "cut them apart" thing. The spacers would secure the frames to each other. Here's mine: The spacers at the top and bottom held the frames rigid. I could then add the sills which also give some rigidity.
  5. Great looking crew Frank. Though I must admit, they seem to be doing some sort of disco dancing...?..!!! I just assuming that they are a happy lot to have a good Captain and a fine ship.
  6. Chris, Sweet work on the cheeks and trailboards. Been shopping at Ancre', I see. Impressive. Only two builds for the rest of your life????? I have faith that you'll get more than two done.
  7. Spencer, Use spacers as Hahn did. A bit of scrap wood above and below the gunport (between the frames) does wonders.
  8. Augie, The "safety timbers" are an excellent idea. So one more sub-deck and then hull planking?
  9. If it's not one thing (raccoons), it's another (blizzard). I guess you'll be making a visit to Gnomes-R-Us??
  10. Robbyn Augie and Robert have the only two viable ways of fixing this from the way you describe it. For drilling metal.. you need to "dimple" it with punch to keep the bit from wandering. Installed on a mast, the dimpling is almost impossible without breaking the mast. If you decide to try the JB Weld, dimple it with a nail point before it hardens. And definitely follow the instructions on surface prep and application. I've used the stuff on engine blocks and it works great if the instructions are followed. If they aren't... well, it wasn't a pretty sight.
  11. Ah...planking has started and looking good. Yeah, I know it's a sub-deck but ya' gotta' start someplace.
  12. Can you point us to a link to see specifically what you're talking about? I'm with Sam but it's possible you're seeing something else.
  13. Greg Herbert recommended this place: http://www.sawbird.com/scroll_saw_blades.htm and specifically their #3 Double Tooth Reverse (20 TPI, 8 Reverse Teeth). I've found them to very good for everything I've cut. I wish I had found these before I started my Licorne.
  14. Great to hear about the interview. I think we're all going to be keeping our fingers crossed for you.
  15. Thanks Druxey. I'm assuming a slip fit type of coupling? I think I'll Google for a bit as these little things raise my ears and poke my curiousity button.
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