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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Dr. Per, What Russ said would be the way to go. When double planking, putting the keel on after sanding (and carefull grooving, etc.) simulates the rabbet and not very well either. I've done two AL kits and wasn't real happy with that result. Luckily, I realized the problem after the garboard plank and was able to fix it.
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Piet, Your picture where it has the "K' designation. You said the "K"s were changed to "O"s in 1938. In my mind, that says that cutters were there from the beginning.
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Very well said, Augie. I hope everyone will read this.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
sudomekh, http://translate.google.com/- 4,152 replies
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
sudomekh, Please use English only as this an English Only forum. Пожалуйста, используйте только на английском языке, так как это только на английском форуме.- 4,152 replies
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Rob, Not worry about where the log ends up every few days. It's the nature of this forum and the number of logs being updated. There's times when I don't read MSW for days at a time and the unread list is 6-7 pages long. When you update, it will rise to the top.
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ebonizing boxwood
mtaylor replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
By the way, there's also this topic which has info about ebonizing: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3696-what-woods-do-you-prefer-to-use/ -
ebonizing boxwood
mtaylor replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
If you've ever seen a piano that's more than about 25 years old, the black keys were probably ebony. Also, many guitars have it on the fretboard. (I think that's the term for it) It's a beautiful wood when finished but a real pain to work with. -
Bob, Just curious here... we buy our wood usually from "local" sources. By that, I mean places that sell the wood to consumers such as Woodcraft, Hobby Mill, The Lumberyard, etc. We generally have no way of knowing where this wood came from. In the Gibson case, they were directly importing it. I guess I'm not sure how this would apply to those of us at the end of the food chain since I'm not a lawyer.
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I'm going to pause this log while I clean it up. If you lose some post count, I apologize. I'm basically only removing the off-topic stuff that I generated and the responses to it as well as some of the early stuff when we came back on line. I hope you understand.
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Sam, I like the way you are approaching this. Your last pic looks good on the seizing/knotting. As for the fuzzies... beeswax: run the line through the wax and then either work it with your fingers into the thread or move it over a light bulb to melt the wax into the line. OR Diluted PVA.. paint it with a 50-50 mix of PVA and water. Run your fingers to get it into the line to soak it in.
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I think life got in the way. He had a similar log on DDM and also here MSW 1.0 where he was a moderator. Look for his id as "Gerald Spargo" here on MSW. Maybe an email will get you an answer.
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It's made from bark of a certain tree.. see below: I highlighted it in red and put the reference on where to buy it from the article. The bark is high in tannic acid. What You’ll Need One quart of Heinz white vinegar (in a plastic bottle) One clean, large-mouth quart jar One pad of #0000 steel wool One stainless steel spoon for stirring One basket-type coffee filter One sieve Quebracho bark powder One pint jar (for mixing) Two small containers (quart jar lids are big enough) or squirt bottles Paper towels or two brushes Latex gloves Supplies Van Dyke’s Taxidermy 800-843-3320 or vandykestaxidermy.com 2 lbs. bark tan & dye (quebracho extract) #01347179, $6.39 Price correct at time of publication.
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Piet, Define "little to show"??? This is all about the "little" details that are bringing you sub to life. Wonderful work. I'm admiring every bit and piece.
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