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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Anthony, Have you seen this: http://www.arsenal-modelist.com/index.php?page=accessories∂=39ℑ=0 If you click Accessories at the top of the page, there's a whole list of items. If you click Articles, there's more... sadly, the Articles section isn't complete.
  2. Spencer, What kind of glue? If PVA, use alcohol (90%). If CA (superglue) use acetone. Soak down a bit cloth and wipe.... and wipe.... and wipe. Scraping with a scraper or even a razor blade while the glue is softened will help.
  3. When I first saw your last post, I saw the pictures first and thought "now that's interesting, he's confident enough to build the display case first!". Actually it's a great idea to have temporary storage to keep the dust off.
  4. Sweet work on the tube doors. I'll just admire them and let someone else ask if they actually lock. ;)
  5. Martin, I'm assuming this is one you bought: http://www.micromark.com/microlux-micro-milling-machine,9683.html Bolt it down by all means. It's not vibration that will cause a problem but the general handling of it. If the table is off to one side, it's easy to knock over.
  6. Ah... love it. The realism, the mass confusion, the smell of gunpowder in the morning because it smells like Victory.... Incredibly wonderful work Daniel.
  7. Adam, Good to see you back. Sorry about all that's been going on but sometimes the best way to cope is to do things "normal".
  8. That's the one I've seen and fits all the mills coming out of Central Machine. The Sherline is similar but designed for their equipment. Be very aware... it kills the warranty as the bearings are rated for the higher rpm. They need to be run in and watched for heating.
  9. Spyglass, Danny just did some retouching to mask it. Maybe kill the clouds, flags, ship name, and sometimes background. Very effective. It doesn't take much to fake out Google... And a bit of text to the image and Google looses it.
  10. Sherline makes a kit to overdrive their mill. Possible that it might fit the Micromark. For the money, they're not bad machines. I have the mini version which I modded for 12,000 rpm or so... In hindsight, I should have bought the Sherline version of MM's R8 or the R8. Bigger is sometimes better.
  11. Bill, Micromark has them online as "cutting pads". Here's links to the three I found: http://www.micromark.com/cutting-pad-8-1and2-inches-x-12-inches,6801.html http://www.micromark.com/cutting-pad-12-inches-x-18-inches,6802.html http://www.micromark.com/try-it-size-cutting-pad-3-inches-x-4-inches,7113.html
  12. Robbyn, Looks great!!! I'm looking forward to seeing the grapnel and oars. Will this one get a display case?
  13. Piet, Here's one from Youtube.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gasAFyonmmI It should explain everything. :D
  14. Ah....made it before all the seats are gone. Looks like a well thought out work area. Sjors, pass the popcorn, please.
  15. Excellent start on the planking, Augie. Will she be treenailed? Enquiring minds and all that....
  16. The retirement parties (had two) were fun. But no drunken revelry as they were at work.... oh well.
  17. Good to see you have returned, Gil. Sounds like you had a great time.
  18. Nice work on that rudder.... looks great.
  19. Piet, It just keeps getting better and better and I'll bet the lawn looks nice also.
  20. In my opinion, you can paint completely, paint just bits and pieces, or not at all. It depends on how you, as the builder want to represent the ship. Hahn used fabric dye on some of his kits to stain the wood. Others, stain or just a wash to suggest paint. And then there's the full blown painting including friezes, statuary, etc. There really is no correct or incorrect way to do it. You can also paint with wood, such as ebony, boxwood, swiss pear, redheart, yellowheart and purpleheart. When in doubt, follow your heart and do it your way.
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