mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Time is always a problem for all of us, Alexey. Great job on the nailing.
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Sjors, When you're healthy, go to the museums. Tell yourself you're looking for artwork for your ship.
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- syren
- model shipways
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Beautiful nettings, Mobbsie. I too am curious... hammocks or no hammocks?
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- agamemnon
- caldercraft
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Mercury by DSiemens - FINISHED - BOTTLE
mtaylor replied to DSiemens's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Lovely work, Daniel. The finish line is in sight. That flag is something else... -
ancre Le Fleuron by cabrapente - FINISHED
mtaylor replied to cabrapente's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Looking better and better with every bit of progress.- 332 replies
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- le fleuron
- 64 gun
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Sweet work on the framing. Boxwood, I assume?
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Polo, Do a search for ropewalk. There have been quite a few threads and posts on these.
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Probably not any more. These bits that I have are fairly old (10 years?). The article lists the different names it goes under but then again, kit makers put a name on junk wood and call it good anymore. For example, supposedly mukali and Tanganyika are same wood, but looked at one from one kit and one from the other and they were different. I think it was AL supplied both in their Constellation kit... different woods supposedly the same tree.
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Brian, I have some of that left over from Billing's and AL. It's a nice wood to work with. But that's one of those woods that has a name that's not what it really is. https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-researchnotes/smf-RN-Tanganyika If you follow that link, it has a bunch of names that each manufacturer seems to use. I've tried to find it on wood supply sites (not model sites) and it's a tough one to come by.
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Uh... Hmm... I gotta' get a translation of that.... But I have to admit that was bafflegab at its finest. You are to be commended for not taking that gift into politics.
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Hope you don't mind if I pull up a chair and watch, do you? Looks to be a fun build. Or at least a fun topic for a build.
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Interesting thread to say the least.... I've got some old walnut from two AL kits and it's really not bad. It's possible what AL called walnut is actually something else as I have walnut from a wood store and it looks nothing at all like the kit supplied stuff. I've also some "mahogany" from those AL kits and Billing's kit... and they don't resemble what I find out there for mahogany. Pity the kit makers won't tell us the real name is for the wood. I suspect that many times what passes for walnut in a kit is something else entirely.
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Andy's next....
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John, Which manufacturer and can you post us some photos?
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Chris, Lovely work on the cheeks and a great tip on the groove. As for the apparent height difference... I'm seeing the ship canted to the right which is giving that appearance. Though once I enlarge it, it might be that the cheek on the right is a tad thinner than one on the left? Not really noticeable unless you're looking for it.
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Robbyn, Yeah...CA and also ebony can cause a lot of problems. That's why I'm going to try the epoxy. CA plays havoc with my sinuses and lungs. As for the ebony look, take a look a using MinWax Ebony Stain or Fiebing's Leather Dye. That's what I was going to use until I started shaping parts. Chris, Thanks for that tip. I'll give it a shot.
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Congratulations Commodore.
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Thanks for the comments and the likes. For filler, I'll be using PVA and swiss pear dust as the planks are swiss pear. One headache is cropping up... it seems that ebony doesn't like PVA. So, I tried gel CA and it seems to hold. I'll do some more testing, but I'm headed to the LHS for some epoxy. Only other solution I have is treenails...
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He put it here also: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/349-sms-trinkstein-by-dafi-sos-stone-on-soil-flush-deck-frigate-of-the-austrian-mountain-navy/
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Thanks everyone. Ferit, my friend, you have sharp eyes. Yes, that's an oops. I'll be filling it before the final sanding and finishing of that area. There's a few other areas that need it also.
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Success!!!!!! The laminated ebony fits perfectly. I've got 4 made and fitted and will probably do one more at less than full thickness do I can taper the wales into planking. I know there's an issue in the area in red.. but it needs cutting out for the bowspit and bollards. I'll finish running the main wales and then start the "starboard" (also known as "not the wall side").
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Dave, Yes, there are. But none deal with fiber optics.
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Paddy, What Bob said about the planking... if one is too low, add a shim before planking and fair it in. Bolts... good question on whether proud or flush. I think most folks, if they do these, file them flush. I would think that having them proud could cause a problem with whatever was stored there.
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Perhaps, but there will be controversy over whether the padded room should be 1:64 or 1:48.
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- trinkstein
- frigate
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