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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. I think it's worth looking into for some my projects. Not doing plastic but even for painting wood ships it would be useful. Thanks.
  2. Well, I have to follow the sage wisdom of Clint Eastwood... "A man's got to know his limitations". After being in denial for a couple of weeks, I'm accepting that as a reality. The eight small cleats at the rear of the quarterdeck are beyond me at this point. Tiny little critters and I've gone to serious magnification and also ran through all my tools on hand for working with them. Even spent time at the local hobbyshop looking for the right tools. Just too tiny for me. So... I'll leave the holes for them for now. Maybe in a week or two, I'll have some inspiration on how to manipulate them or worst case... fill the holes and paint. Time to turn the page and carry on.
  3. Here's the online link for the 1780 edition. : https://webarchive.nla.gov.au/awa/20110215215247/http://southseas.nla.gov.au/refs/falc/contents.html
  4. What a great find at HD. I'm sure most if not all of never heard of that thing. May I suggest you do a review of this tool here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/69-reviews-model-shipwrighting-tools-parts-and-fittings/
  5. Man, PM Peter and find out if this is kit or a scratchbuild. If a kit, he should be able to tell you who made it and then you can find about shipping to Hong Kong.
  6. Too many questions on this and too few answers of which some may be the cloud the war. Possibly even things still be classified as "secret" or higher. It's possible that the Brit signals about losing contact were a ruse. But then that raises questions as to "why?" and "who ordered it?".
  7. I find it interesting that they would store rafts on top of the turrets. Seems they would be more susceptible to damage there.
  8. Is it possible that she had the Metox radar and they took the antenna down when coming into port and/or when photos were made? Too many eyes in a harbor area for tight security I would think.
  9. Once upon a time, we had a 32' motor home. But something like that rig would scare me to death to try to drive it, much less park it or back it up. Hats off to you Brad.
  10. Many times, those bulkheads under the quarterdeck/poop and under forecastle were removable. Maybe even most of the time. Removing them to below deck would do several things.... it allowed a bit better ventilation to get the smoke from the guns to clear out, it also removed extras sources of splinters (glass and wood) and lastly, it gave better access for the gunners to work and also hear commands.
  11. I tend to think either way or both the doors and center panel. The more windows the better the light down there.
  12. Take your time and think it through. I do suggest you do the LEDs before any planking so you have access to the places that need LEDs and wiring.
  13. Is the cornfield on the wrong end of the boat? Or did the cows move it? As crazy as it seems to me and maybe others, the crops and critters on the ship are interesting yet strangely weird.
  14. The best general reference I've found is zu Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models. It concerns mostly warships of English, French, and American ships. It has some errors but it's good starting point. As for hull planking and shaping on model, you would probably want a different book if practical advice (how-to) is needed.
  15. Welcome to the Society of Humble Pie Eaters, Glenn. I did something out of sequence also and have finally figured out a way around it. I painted the inside bulwarks red before adding the cleats in the stern. Clogged the holes (brush painted). Argghhh... Been spending a lot time and filled the air with bad language cleaning up those holes. I did it thinking that painting under the cleats would be a problem if they were installed first.
  16. The clear plastic on the wire is a problem. I'm not sure if there's a chemical way to remove and burning it off would be nasty.
  17. I don't see a problem using only 3 or 4 sizes of rope for running rigging or standing. Many do that and no one ever goes around nit-picking thread sizes after a model is built.
  18. Scott, post the actual build in the kit build log area instead of here. You might post a link to the log here once you've started it.
  19. Thanks Tony. BTW, I didn't even think "block of wood" since you were printing. I like the French ships but no one seems to make the various stoves for them as mini-kits like they do for the Engish.
  20. I'm no CAD/3D expert but from what I see and reading what you're saying, it might be best to approach this as if you were scratch building it. Make the basic stove shape and print it. Add lids and handles using brass or even styrene. At a bigger scale, say 1:48 or larger, 3D printing as shown by your drawings would probably be a good option.
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