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Posts posted by Old Collingwood
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1 minute ago, lmagna said:
There is where the skill shows itself. If it had been me I would have turned what is a really good looking model into total junk at about this point!
Sound like my effort (message to self - Tamiya Lacquer spray paints do not brush on well - dry to quick and form ridges)
OC.
- Canute, thibaultron, mtaylor and 3 others
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- lmagna, Kevin, popeye the sailor and 1 other
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57 minutes ago, Kevin said:
looking very nice indeed considering the limitations you have with the hobby, very well done OC
Thank you so much, I'm trying my best.
OC.
- Canute, mtaylor and popeye the sailor
- 3
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I think the problem is - turning a kit into a scale replica of the real thing requires several different skill sets - the build of the item and dexterity requires one set, then understanding what makes it more life like is another then painting the thing in a natural way is something different on top.
Getting them all together is the hard bit and guess takes lots and lots of goes to get it right.
Oh and Luck.
OC.
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6 minutes ago, mtaylor said:
Lou,
Part of the problem is that you have "modeler's vision". We build, we inspect, we go "oh crap". To everyone else, even up close and in person, they see the goodness that has been done. Doesn't matter if it's wood, plastic models, we all have it.
Very true - then we show pics with high resolution camera tech and we think it looks crap - we all experience it.
OC.
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12 minutes ago, lmagna said:
I will definitely be getting something. The normal reading part of of my bifocals is something like 1.25 if I remember correctly So I would think I would need something a little stronger than that. I need to look into some kind of direct lighting system as well as I think my dining room lighting is more for ambiance at a meal than precision model painting! It can be bright enough if I turn the dimmer all the way up but it is all angles and shadows and has a strong yellow cast from all of the candle style lights. It is a 16 or 18 candle and crystal chandelier.
I have seen that picture of you and your bride before Craig and I still think you married up, WAY up.
It is also strange that it seems like so many of us here have hearing loss problems. Sorry to learn about your loss Javlin and OC. I have lost 100% of my hearing in my right ear. It is great for when my wife snores sometimes but a pain in the butt almost all other times.
Its great for me for when its noisy outside when I want to sleep - I just sleep on my good ear - I love listening to music (my own creations and others) thats a pain as I have to balance the sound by moving the balance over to my right.
OC.
- popeye the sailor, mtaylor, Canute and 1 other
- 4
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2 minutes ago, Javlin said:
I must be lucky 1.0 for me but I have no hearing @59 yrs
Sorry to hear about your hearing - did it go over time or always had it? I am 75% death in my right ear same as my late farther.
OC.
- popeye the sailor, lmagna, Canute and 1 other
- 4
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I completely understand your reasons for wanting to strengthen the mast - I know its a different subject matter - but I did the same in my Pearl build.
OC.
- popeye the sailor, Kevin and mtaylor
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Yep hits us all - I didn't know how bad my eyesight was going till writing on comp screens started going blurry and out doors I struggled to make out details at distance so well, all other distances are ok though.
OC.
- Canute, lmagna, Landlubber Mike and 2 others
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- popeye the sailor, mtaylor, lmagna and 3 others
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16 minutes ago, cog said:
Usually is with the plastic parts, until you get to the PE or painting it all seems to flow easily
I think what it is - when the model is un painted stage it can get quite a bit of rough treatment - filing this/sanding that without worrying about marring the paint finish, I have to say the way I have had to put the paint on has caused most of the problems.
OC.
- Canute and popeye the sailor
- 2
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7 hours ago, Canute said:
Did anyone 'splain to Lt Dumbjohn what he'd have to do? Or was it easier to let the lad flail. Guess we took a long time to get aviators into combat, with the schooling we did.
Heck, the time I got to drive an M-60, in Schweinfurt, Germany, I got a 3 minute briefing on steering (like a bicycle), gear selection(one forward, I think) and speed(the long wide one on the right). Just don't get too close to the HAWK battery and no, you can't turn the turret to put the barrel forward. I drove one tank across a good sized ditch and went into their parade ground? We took 3 tanks into this huge field and immediately got into a wheel of the 3 tanks chasing each other's tail. The Army captain wasn't too amused until he saw our AF Colonel driving one of the tanks in this rat race.
I was nearly flattened by a British Challenger 2 tank while driving in a rush up a country lane where the Army had their ranges.
OC.
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Quite a bit more work today - six hours at the table correcting the paint finish - this consisted off wet soapy sanding with fine wet and dry thats had its bite taken off by rubbing on slightly coarser wet and dry, than I worked on the the left side front area - first I masked off a small area just forward of where the wing joins the fuselage, then with my widest brush I applied a few thin coats force drying and light sanding between coats, then I moved a section at a time towards the tail - masking where needed.
When I reached the tail I masked a new curve and continued my Black paintwork six hours later I gave the paintwork a light buff with a cloth and finished for the day.
Here's the pics - including a dry fit with the one wing that still needs a bit of touch up.
OC.
- lmagna, Kevin, marktiedens and 7 others
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39 minutes ago, mtaylor said:
The gloss coat might work better then for cleaning up the remaining scratches.
I'll give it a go "nothing ventured - nothing gained"
OC.
- lmagna, popeye the sailor, Canute and 1 other
- 4
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20 minutes ago, mtaylor said:
An old trick might help... use a bit tooth paste on your finger and try rubbing it out. Use the abrasive type of tooth pastes. I had to do that on my -53 and worked out fine. A little touch up after the rubbing out and all was fine.
Im a bit worried about pressing to hard in case the windows push inside the fuselage as they were not very well glued in.
But I have some gloss clear top coat - could brush that in to give them some shine.
OC.
- popeye the sailor, Canute and lmagna
- 3
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3 minutes ago, mtaylor said:
An old trick might help... use a bit tooth paste on your finger and try rubbing it out. Use the abrasive type of tooth pastes. I had to do that on my -53 and worked out fine. A little touch up after the rubbing out and all was fine.
Thanks Mark.
OC.
- popeye the sailor, Canute and mtaylor
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Looking swell Lou - keep going mate.
OC.
- Canute, lmagna, popeye the sailor and 1 other
- 4
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So, what I need to do tomorrow - is to work on that front area of Black under the cockpit (just a bit of light sanding) then a few more thin coats of semi gloss Black, after this has set I will work tidy-ing up the canopy frame where it meets the fuselage and also some of the glazing framework.
Then a bit of a tidy up of the front nose cone glazing, and then I may consider Blacking out the two front nose side windows - as I have seen this done (will cover up where the plastic has hazed.
OC.
- popeye the sailor, Canute, lmagna and 1 other
- 4
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10 minutes ago, CDW said:
Hey, that looks great from here. Nice job.
Thanks Craig, its still looks worse close up (but dont all our builds under close inspection).
OC.
- Canute, Javlin, popeye the sailor and 1 other
- 4
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Thank you for the help all - really appreciate it your intervention stopped me from binning it, I decided to attack the black first - I thought I had brought the eqv tin acrylic as the Tamiya rattle can, so I used my softest/widest brush watered the paint very sightly with distilled water (just a few brush drops into the tin) then proceeded to apply some thin layers all over the black - wide brush with thin layers dried between each seems to have helped a bit.
On the side where the scratches was under the cockpit that still needs a little light sanding - I will attempt that tomorrow when the paint has fully hardened.
Here is a pic showing the better of the two sides after the touch up.
OC.
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Thanks Craig, here are the pics - not sure about the best option for touching up the paintwork as I dont want to have to re mask the areas so I can spray the affected areas, I could de cant some paint out of the sprays into a small glass by spraying a liitle - then brush over the areas but as thin as possible (not sure if the difference will show between spraying and hand brushing) I have some 800 wet and dry - some well used pieces that I could try but have nothing finer.
Here's the pics -
OC.
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Right - I got the chance to lay another coat of Green over the wing and fuselage, then let them dry aided by the hairdryer - I then put them aside to harden, I also put a coat of primer on the other wing and stabs.
Then this afternoon I decided it was time to remove the tape and reveal my paint work - Not good I am not happy, contribution of factors lack of man shed or building area, wrong tape (I should have invested correctly by getting Tamiya Tape) Also using Tamiya rattle cans out doors in between rain showers and wind and bugs - is not ideal as I had to very quickly throw the paint down to beat the elements.
The finish has left a couple of areas of miss match paint - some scratches and a hard ridge where the black/camo demarcation line is.
Seriously dont want to have to paint my other kits this way as its just not the way to go.😞
OC.
- lmagna, popeye the sailor, Canute and 1 other
- 4
Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project
in Non-ship/categorised builds
Posted
Thanks lou, this is what I need to fix -
OC.