HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72

[DaveRow]

Hi Pat,

I don't know much about how the Etching works.

However, if one can get metal items made from the drawing method, that conjures up a lot of applications.

Thanks for sharing.

 

PS I am looking forward to seeing the assembled Skylight.

[BANYAN]

Thanks guys, a learning curve but well worth the effort

 

Not long for the completed assembly Dave; a tad distracted with babysitting duties today.

 

cherers

 

Pat

Edited January 15, 2019 by BANYAN

[Beef Wellington]

Great result with the PE Pat, you really have some fantastic details coming together now.  I can't help but feel this would open up so many opportunities and would love to give it a go myself, combining with the laser cutting.  I really need to figure out some PC drafting software.

[BANYAN]

Another small update folks.   This shows some of the completed parts in-situ but the 'pelorus' is only dry fitted.  I have yet to add the connection point (hydrant) for the 7" fire pump between the two suction plate assemblies, and a few sounding pipes.  There is also a brass (single) rail to go around this area.

 

Dave, the laser cut came up well; many thanks to you and your mate for organising this for me.  The rod grills are made from PE verticals and .6mm brass wire/rod which I soldered at the ends (each rod) and spot soldered two rods only for the inner ones.  I have rebated a length of 0.5mm brass rod into the centreline piece of the skylight to represent a 'piano style' hinge with the edges screwed off against the sides of the panels in real life.

 

Unfortunately the laser cut ply came up a little darker than the rest of the wood (Kauri) but I think I can live with it   I have also fitted the two 'L' handles for the downton pumps against the rear end of the skylight.  These were only fitted when required.  The dado along the bottom is 8" (actual) which corresponds with the dado on the circular skylights (4 of, still to be made) which will be fitted two abreast between the pelorus and companion, and the other two abreast aft of the companion.

cheers

 

Pat

[cog]

She's filling up nicely, very crisp details

[mtaylor]

Beautiful work going on there Pat.  

[Omega1234]

Hi Pat

 

Lovely, finely and beautifully excecuted details.  Very crisp, indeed!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[BANYAN]

Thanks for looking in and the comments  Carl, Mark and Patric - much appreciated.  Now to attack the circular skylights, that is going to be a bit of a challenge but only 4 to make 😨 - .

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

Hi Pat,

Deck fit-out looking seriously good man.

 

[BANYAN]

cheers mate; appreciate your compliment.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Roger Pellett]

A spectacular model!!

 

Roger

[popeye the sailor]

the deck is filling out nicely............the detailing of your fittings is superb   nicely done !

[BANYAN]

Thanks for the likes, and Roger and Denis for your very kind remarks.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited January 27, 2019 by BANYAN
typo

[BANYAN]

Hi folks, I have made some progress on the winches, with the parts now all turned, photoetched etc.  I have managed to put the ironwork (brass) for one of them together but still to add the wooden 'bed'.  The photos show the progress as I went along but still a lot of cleaning up to do.  Most of this is fine metal powder, but a few 'dags' here and there to fix. 

 

The whole assembly is only 15mm long by 11mm high.  The small handwheel was purchased but the rest of the parts including the larger hand wheel, except the tapered drum which I turned, are PE that I drew up and had etched.  The slightly grooved effect n the drum is deliberate as it had grooves for the first turns of the wire to lay up into.  I have styled this after a winch illustrated in Underhill's 'Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier'.

 

The cog wheel is two pieces of .2mm bras with tiny alignment holes which allowed me to solder them together and keep the teeth aligned.  The worm gear is still beyond my skills so I simply used some brass tube (1.5 mm).  The other handwheel is set into a short length of 1.0 mm tube, which is then partially inserted into some small brass square section, to represent the gear box for the drum brake, which is made from thin copper (bends more easily).

 

The small ding in the tapered wire drum is bigger than planned but is intend as a 'flat' to let me drill through as a starting point for the steel wire rope that will be attached.  The halliards (steel wire) were bent to the winch and remained there permanently  with the tension held by the drum brake.  My next problem is to work out how to fit this strongly enough to allow me to create a 'little' tension on the scaled halliards without pulling the winch away from the deck.

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

 

 

 

[cog]

Stunning Pat. At that size ... whomever would even see the worm ... absolutely beautiful

[wefalck]

Nice piece of engineering ! I think, if you Fashion some hexagonal ‚bolts‘ from little brass nails, that should fix the winch sufficiently down on the deck.

i am surprised to see brass-winches already at that time. I thought they were only introduced in the 1880s.

[Omega1234]

Suitably gobsmacked, Pat.  That’s mighty fine work!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[druxey]

Very neatly done, Pat!

[Jim Lad]

Just catching up, Pat  That's some very nice engineering work!

 

John

[michael mott]

Pat, you have done an outstanding job on the winch, it is a good job you placed the scale rule next to it!

 

( I'm gonna have to buy me one of those 10x larger than life steel rules for these types of pictures)😉

 

Michael

[mtaylor]

My mind too is definitely boggled at the detail, Pat.  Just amazing.

[BANYAN]

Thanks Michael, plenty of those extra large scale rules hanging around; I hoped no one would notice that cheat  

 

Thanks Mark, I was intimidated at first, but once I broke it down to chunk sized mini-projects it all came together so to speak.  the hardest part was working out the soldering sequence to minimise heat transfer to other parts and allow access to parts still needed to be done.

 

Appreciate the comments guys.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited January 29, 2019 by BANYAN
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[popeye the sailor]

great looking winch Pat.....nicely done  

 

I like the face that the ruler has the numbers printed on it..........it would keep me from having that bewildered look all the time,  when I try to figure stuff out in my head  

[EdT]

Beautiful work on that winch, Pat.

 

Ed

[BANYAN]

Thanks Denis and Ed, appreciate the feedback.

 

Denis, saves me on the mental 'gymnastics' also

 

Ed, appreciate that coming from you; I have a long way to go to match your skills though   In hindsight, there are two things I would change; one I am considering making.

 

I should have used another thickness (or two) of the large cog in the laminated approach I have taken (there are only two of 0.2mm) which would have made it looks a little more substantial and represent the real thing a little better.  The other is that I should have used a cut-off section of a very fine thread small bolt for the worm gear.  I am tempted to replace it but do not want to risk destroying other work with applying yet more heat to desolder and resolder the worm drive.  Lesson learned for next time at least.

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

[BANYAN]

Hi Eberhardt, appreciate you feedback also, again I have a long way to go to match your machining skills.  Sorry, I thought I had answered your question.

 

My intention in the text was to infer that I used brass to represent the iron as it is easier to work at at this scale.  I am confident they were used as the Contract called for them and my research (Underhill in particular, but others) show they were being introduced as early as the 1850s but mainly in the mercantile ships, in particular clippers.  Victoria used them as they were minimum manned.

 

It was of interest that in letter written by Commander Lockyer (build superintendent) as a progress report to the Colony's governor (Sir Charles Hotham - a RN Naval Officer also) that I found in the Public records Office, it states:

In this vessel I am continuing all the newer, and well tried, improvements that have been adopted in Her Majesty’s Service and in the Mercantile Navy.

 

This verifies earlier assumptions that 'cutting edge' technology for that time was being fitted.

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

[wefalck]

Pat, I didn't want to say anything, but this is what I would have probably done, taking a small screw and turning down the ends to simulate the axle of the worm. As a matter of fact, I may have also taken off the tips of the thread to simulate the more square tooth-shape one would find on such heavy-duty worm-wheel-combinations.

 

Incidentally, there is a method to make matching worm-wheels that does not require any fancy tools, but just the respective tap. It can be done on a lathe or a milling machine. The tap is used as a wheel-cutter or 'hobber'. One only needs to fashion a holder on which the wheel blank can spin freely, but without wobbling, bringing it to exactly the axis of the tap. The exact diameter of the wheel-blank is calculated from the pitch of the thread and the number of teeth you will get on the circumference. For non-working versions one cheat a bit. The tap is then slowly fed into the blank - then by and by the wheel teeth magically emerge. It may look messy first, but when the tap is finally fed-in to almost half its diameter, you will have a clean pattern.

 

Below is an example, where I made a concave knurl by the same method (on the mill). Such knurls are geometrically similar to a worm-wheel (that is, if they are 'roped' and don't have straight teeth):

I found this idea on Web-sites where people make large worm-wheels for telescope mounts. In this case, the wheels are 'gashed' first with a slitting saw and a dividing attachment to ensure the proper tooth spacing. For small, non-functional worm-wheels made from brass, gashing is not needed. Even the steel knurl above was not gashed first.

Here is a little video showing the worm-wheel hobbing on a lathe:

 

Edited January 31, 2019 by wefalck

[BANYAN]

Thanks again Eberhard, you are a fountain of knowledge on these matters.  I am still tempted to replace them and am leaning more and more towards doing so before I start painting them, and then it will all be too late.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[wefalck]

Don't know how difficult it is to pry the winches apart, but I think it would be worthwhile to replace at least the worm. It is these little details that bring a model to life and make the difference. From our PM exchange a few weeks ago, I conclude that you would have all the necessary tools anyway.

 

P.S. it is quite frightening how Google/YouTube spy on you: although I had seen the above video already a long time ago, it popped up in the 'recommended viewing' side-bar of YouTube after I suggested the worm-gear hobbing in my first post on this ... without doing any search on Google or YouTube ...

Edited January 31, 2019 by wefalck

[BANYAN]

.... and despite what these companies say about protecting your privacy, the data they collect is indeed frightening.  I wish  Aust. would follow some of the new European privacy laws.

 

I think I will replace the worm -  will experiment a little today to see what I can do.  All to late for thickening the main drive cog though.

 

[edit:  Eberhard, I will do this by using a small bolt and turning the threads of a short length for the axle.  I very much like the process using the 'tap'.  I have a good range of these, and in future will use that to create a better drive cog in particular, but also a more correct worm as well.]

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited February 2, 2019 by BANYAN
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