18th Century Longboat by BobF - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 - Tri-Club

[BobF]

Thanks, Mike.  When it comes to model ship building, I like to think outside the box, while maintaining a reasonable level of accuracy.  This little model has given me a lot of opportunities to do exactly that.  Currently, I have the template made for the aft platform.  That assembly should be installed very soon.

 

Regards,

BobF.

[BobF]

Like the forward platform, I wanted to use a spacer of some sort to support the template at the correct height inside the hull.  This one turned out to be a little more involved, but it wasn't difficult to make.

A rough form of the template was laid on top of the spacer, and small pieces of card stock were glued in place to get the final shape.

The planks for the platform were joined together by cutting shallow grooves in the bottom of each plank, and gluing thin strips in the grooves.  Even though still quite thin, the assembly was fairly rigid.

I'll explain in my next post why I didn't run that middle strip all the way across.

The last photo shows the shape of the template transfered to the platform, which is ready for shaping.

 

BobF

 

[BobF]

Here's the platform cut to the required shape.  The port and starboard sides were beveled to a sharp edge on the underside.  I wanted to get as clean a fit as possible.  If you look closely, you can see a rectangular box marked on the middle plank.  This area will be removed, which is the reason that strip of wood on the underside of the platform did not go completely across.

It was quite common for these boats to be used to assist the parent ship in retrieving it's anchor.  This was done using a windlass like the one featured in the kit, and a davit that hung over the stern.  The next illustration was taken from The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600 - 1815 by Brian Lavery, and illustrates how this davit was positioned.  Note the notch in the bottom of the davit that fits over a pin located below the platform.

I made a mock-up of the davit, and placed it in position to see if the location was feasible.

It appeared to be reasonable, so the area was cut out, and a blackened brass pin, set in two blocks, was glued in the proper location.

At this point, I cut back the forward end of the platform, and installed a thin strip of wood, which I feel gives the assembly a more finished look.

Like the forward platform and floor boards, I used black paint brush bristles to simulate the nail heads.

 

BobF

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Amazing!

[SkerryAmp]

Evening Bob,

 

Sorry for being a little late to the party but I am incredibly enjoying your work.  I have this kit on my To Do Shelf and getting some great ideas and inspirations from your build.

 

Such great work!

[tlevine]

Bob, I love how, with your research, you have transformed this kit into something remarkable.

[gjdale]

Just loving your attention to detail on this build Bob.

[BobF]

With the platforms completed, the risers were next.  I used two spacers to make sure the distance between the cap rail and risers was correct.  The miniature clamps were a big help, although they did have a nasty habit of popping off, if I bumped them!

Not having the frieze strips glued in place also paid off here, since there was a good chance that they would have gotten damaged.  Never the less, I still managed to nick the red paint job on the cap rail in a few places.

After scribing and pre-bending the strips, I decided to put the simulated nail heads in before the risers were mounted.  The last photo shows the port riser and the front face of the storage locker in place.

 

BobF

[themadchemist]

Hello Bob

Some very excellent work on this little build. I've found the small boats a very interesting topic as I develop in this hobby.

Your planking illustrations are simply magnificent and really help those learning the techniques.

 

I love some of your innovations, such as using evergreen as a sanding shim on the cap rail, or the paint bristle nailing.

 

Thanks for the efforts of your sharing, as this build log is truly an asset to MSW's fountain of knowledge.   

[BobF]

Hello all,

 

Nothing really earth-shaking to report.  I decided to use templates for the port and starboard cockpit seats, which took a lot of guess work out of the process.

I intend to paint all the thwarts and cockpit seating, so none of these pieces have been glued in place yet.

I also want to install the ring bolts in the center floor board and apron.  The ring bolt in the apron is for the staysail halyard block, which would have hooked onto the ring bolt.

 

BobF

[Dee_Dee]

Bob,

Thanks for posting the photo of your template for the cockpit seats.  I need to make a similar part on my current build and finally!!!! I know how to do it! 

I have the 18th century longboat kit on the shelf and your build log is a fountain of information! 

Thanks for sharing your build!

Dee Dee    

[themadchemist]

What is so great about that technique is the fact that it is REAL.

 

I was watching boat building video's on youtube and that was how they fit the shapes on a full sized clinkered boat build. It's just one of those things that are just SO obvious, once you seen it done...

 

Nicely done on the seating fit Bob and as always, nice photo illustration.

[GuntherMT]

Bob,

 

I've somehow managed to miss this log before now, luckily Keith posted a link here in my log for your excellent planking techniques, so now I've spent the time to go through this entire log.  Your workmanship is simply amazing to see, and the entire process has made this small little boat really a beautiful work.  Thank you for posting such excellent photo's and descriptions of your work.

[AndrewNaylor]

Bob Beautiful job I love the black bristle as nails, black through and through out looking for a broom now!

Andy

[BobF]

Andrew -

 

Another source for potential nails or trunnels is the old fashion scrub brush.  The bristles are quite stiff, and primarily brown in color.  I knew a modeler who once trunneled a scratch built Hanah with these, and it looked great.  They may not all be the same diameter, so some time would have to be spent sorting through them after they are cut from the wood backing.

 

I really appreciate the kind comments about my model.

 

BobF. 

[Redbeard]

Bob

 

I'm really enjoying your build!  Just ordered my longboat yesterday and seeing your progress really gets the anticipation level elevated  Keep up the great work and I really look forward to your next update.

 

John

[BobF]

Hello all,

 

I just wanted to apologize for my lack of participation lately in this discussion group.  Two months ago, I decided to remodel my workshop, and that pretty much brought my modeling to a screeching halt.  The good news is that I'm getting close to finishing what I set out to do, and will soon be resuming work on the long boat.  I'm really looking forward to it!

 

BobF

[michael20]

Very fine example of a longboat coming together there Bob.

 

   Happy Modeling

      Marty G.

[BobF]

Hello all,

 

Pulled the longboat out of mothballs, and started working on it again.  Although all the thwarts are finished, I'm going to leave those off that are on either side of the windlass until after the windlass is installed.

I noticed that the cockpit seats on NMM longboats have scribing all the way around their inner edge, so I thought I'd try it.

This caused the thwart at the forward end of the cockpit to have a rather strange shape, which took a while to configure.

The scribed lines didn't line up perfectly, but I really didn't want to do them over again.

I decided to embellish the support straps that hold the mast bracket in place.  I drilled three #80 holes in each strap, and inserted pieces of brass wire to simulate mounting bolts.  Since they are so small, I decided to leave them bright, so they could be seen.

I still need to mount the belaying pins, so this thwart has not been glued in place.

[jct]

Bob,

Super clean build...very impressive

J

[Jack12477]

Nice looking boat. I like the ribbed thwarts.

 

P.S - Welcome back.

Edited March 4, 2015 by Jack12477

[BobF]

J & Jack,

 

Thanks for the kind words.  It feels good to be contributing to MSW again.

 

BobF

[divarty]

Welcome back Bob, as usual your work is beautiful, she coming along really well.  Looking at what you've done makes me want to rebuild my kit

[monkeyman]

What?! Mounting bolts?! Please, I'm feeling myself SUPER lame comparing to this! This is SOOOOOOO superior!

[tlevine]

I had the pleasure of seeing Bob's longboat over the weekend at our monthly club meeting.  It looks even better in person than in the photos.  I can't wait to see what you find out as regards the rigging.

[BobF]

Toni -

 

Thanks for the kind words.  Actually, I don't have any great plans for the rigging, other than how the deadeyes are fastened to the hull.  Contemporary models show them hooked to the chainplates.  So, that's what I hope to do.  Also, I noticed that the metal support at the heel of the bowsprit is anchored to the forward thwart, not the platform.  I'm kind of getting ahead of myself here, but please stay tuned.

 

BobF

[BobF]

Here are some photos of the completed cockpit area and the thwart that supports the mast.  Some changes to the cockpit were based on photos of contemporary models.  Apparently, it was quite common for these craft to have additional bracing on the interior side of the transom.  Here is one such model.

If you look closely, you can see a metal plate in the notch that would have supported the anchor davit.  This makes sense since the davit probably exerted considerable stress on the transom while working with the ship's anchor.  Here's my interpretation of that photo:

No modifications to the thwart were made, other than the fact that I substituted boxwood belaying pins for those supplied with the kit.

Some of the thwarts have not been glued in place yet.  I placed them in position for these photos.  I think the additional room will help with the installation of the windlass, which is next.

BobF

[BobF]

When I started working on the windlass, it didn't take me long to realize that I had a problem with the risers.  They were way out of plumb, which made mounting the windlass directly to them pretty much out of the question.  After studying contemporary models, I noticed that it was common for the windlass to be mounted to slotted plates that were mounted on the risers.

I tried making a pair that were bevelled on the back side, which I hoped would compensate for the problem.  Unfortunately, they were much to thick on the top edge, and didn't look very pleasing.  The only other option seemed to be cutting into the risers, which would allow me to affix the plates with the correct orientation.  Not historically correct, but I couldn't see any other way to solve my predicament.  Since the risers were made out of boxwood, I wasn't very optimistic about the eventual outcome.  Taking my time, the cuts were made, but my paint job got pretty banged up.  As you can see, I also had to cut into one of the frames.  Prior to taking this photo, I did some touching up!.

There wasn't much room below the riser, so the plates aren't as wide as those featured on contemporary models.

Finally, I decided to insert a small plug inside the slots.  If visible at all, they would appear to be the axles for the windlass, and they also gave me some surface area for gluing the windlass in place.

I plan on the windlass being a slide fit.

 

BobF

Edited July 25, 2015 by BobF

[Stuntflyer]

Bob - I ran into the same problem or at least I think so. By "plumb" I think you mean that the risers are not vertical. I was able to get the windlass close enough to the riser so that the pin was hardly noticeable. Not that your going to do that now, just found your dilemma interesting. Whether your solution is right or wrong, I wouldn't know. I just like the way you are able think outside the box.

 

Mike

Edited July 24, 2015 by Stuntflyer

[BobF]

Mike:

Yes, I was referring to the risers not being vertical. I usually like to plan ahead when I build a model, but this one caught me by surprise.  I couldn't help but think about how early in the construction of the hull, the problem was created.  Installing the windlass wasn't even on the radar screen!  Anyway, thanks for the kind words.

 

BobF