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HMS Ethalion 1797 by robdurant - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Modified from HMS Diana 1794 kit


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  • 3 weeks later...

A small update... the port channels all have their deadeyes and chainplates attached. I need to fill the gaps in the channels and smooth them back, but it's nice to have this done.

 

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I've also been working a little more on the open rails on the quarterdeck.  I've started filling in the central row of the top railing with 1x1mm walnut, and then I'll put the rail on the outside edge to complete. A 1mm brass wire was added at the bow end to straighten up the rail. It should be virtually invisible once complete, but should add strength too, for when (not if) I knock it!

 

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Happy building

 

Rob

 

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Hey There Rob .. That first photo made me go 'Wow' !..    What a Sweet looking build, loving the colours too .

 

 

All The Very Best

 

Eamonn

Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is..🙄

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 2 weeks later...

Another little update. More work on the beakhead railings...  I've used plasticard, which I later engraved using a proxxon engraving bit to add the inset. This can be seen in the last photo of this post, with the first coat of paint on it. Hopefully this will provide a little dignity / privacy for those using the rear-most seats of ease!

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Some deck furniture... (the hatch was made form scratch, as the kit one ended up too wide, and looked a little clunky to my eyes. I haven't decided whether I like this open or not - the captain may prefer if it's shut so he can't be overheard discussing his orders by the whole ship's company, but if I leave it open I'll add a couple of rods to represent supports. I don't need to decide now anyway. In the bottom I put a square of card, which provides a little depth, but means I don't have to make the deck opening any bigger (somewhat tricky at this stage!).

 

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The balustrades aren't glued on at the moment, as I'm sure there will be all sorts of things that will be easier to do without them in place... the positioning holes are drilled, however.

 

And the beginnings of the gratings that the seats of ease sit on. The shape is quite different from the kit shape, because of all the reworks I've done, so I've begun building this shape from scratch using the AOTS diagram as a template. I'm building them upside down. I've started cutting it down, but left it slightly oversize, so I can fit it closely once it's somewhat more complete. I also want to curve it as I go... Hmm... we'll see how that turns out! It's made out of 1x1mm and 1x2mm walnut strip, so I will need to paint it.

 

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Looks stunning Rob, think you are now about 2yrs ahead of me 🙂  Very interested to see you approach on the head gratings.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Thanks Jason

 

Yes it's another challenge along the way. I've been able to place plank nippers in between the sideways planks to gently curve the whole lengthwise... seemed to work okay although the experiment did mean that it's now proving harder to complete the piece as it isn't flat. Something makes me think I should have seen that coming! 😂 🙄

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  • 3 weeks later...

Time for a little update. The bulwarks are done, and I've been working on the quarterdeck armament... namely 12lb cannon (actually 9lb on the ship, but the carriages fit nicely) and 32lb carronades... The cannon are from Syren Model Ship Co. - these kits are fabulous, and I don't really do them justice! Step one for me is to build a framework around which to build the carriage. This helps me get them all square and neat.

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The following is a size comparison between the 12 and 18lb carriages... I hadn't appreciated what a difference it actually was.

 

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The wheels were sanded by attaching them to a rod and spinning them in sandpaper. 

 

Next up were the carronades, which are Caldercrafts from the kit. I was expecting to be disappointed with the castings, but they were pretty good, actually. Some playing around was required after cleaning up the castings to try and make the Britannia metal castings match the cannon barrels which were blackened, and I'm still not quite there, but getting closer I think.

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All the fittings were reasonably clean castings with minimal cleaning up necessary.

 

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Production line in full swing... And all this is just for the quarterdeck!

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Since this photo was taken I've also drilled out the holes for the eyelets, and added the brackets at the front.

 

As other Diana builders have noted, the instructions suggest these ought to be mounted onto the sill of the gunport - however this practice was pretty much over by the time Diana was built, and instead the carronade was resting on a pad of wood on the deck beneath the port. 

 

This arrangement can be seen on Victory's carronades, as per the picture below, taken by Julian Fong: (https://www.flickr.com/photos/levork/2302412091)

68 pounder carronade

 

And even more clearly here: https://ageofsail.wordpress.com/2009/02/21/introducing-the-carronade/  , where the carronade has been swung up against the Bulwark, revealing the pad on which it sits.

 

 

 

Edited by robdurant
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  • 1 month later...

Definitely time for an update. Unfortunately I haven't been very well for a number of weeks so, quite rightly, work, family, etc... took priority, and almost nothing happened to Ethalion.  Thankfully, I'm over the worst, so it's back on with the project. I needed a break from the things I'd been doing to get my head back into Ethalion, so I decided to start work on the masts. I've been itching to see what the lower fore, main, mizzen would look like and work out the colour scheme. Here is my first attempt.

 

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And finally, I've been moving my previous models into a new cabinet to display them, and it gave me the opportunity to get a few pictures of the fleet :) - all are Caldercraft - namely, the Schooner Pickle, and the cutter Sherbourne.

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Apologies for the quality of the photos... I'll try and get some better ones another time when I have more time, and more energy :) I was utterly shocked by the difference in weight between the smaller craft and Ethalion. I'll have to get some scales out at some point, but suffice it to say, it's significant!

 

Next steps are to think seriously about the fittings needed for rigging on the quarterdeck (pintails, etc..); rigging the carronades and cannon, which are just loosely sat in position at the moment, and then whatever takes my fancy next :)

 

Happy building 

 

Rob

 

 

 

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Great to see the three of them together Rob .. Really shows the relative sizes (The latest is a monster in comparison )

 

Hope you are feeling better !

 

All The Very Best

 

Eamonn

Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is..🙄

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I love every aspect of this build   - amazing skill.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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I simply love seeing photos with numerous ships in the same scale.  Your "Diana" looks amazing. Cant wait to start building mine but have too many ships in the shipyard at the moment. 

 

My other hobby besides shipbuilding is actually photography. Two simple recommendations to make them better. Place the boats daytime near a large Window so you get more light. The Main problem in Most photos in this forum is just too little light. And also fabrics dont really make a good background. Better to use a simple wall instead with a neutral colour.

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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Thanks Vane,

 

And thanks to everyone for the kind comments and encouragement.

 

I completely agree with everything you've said and really enjoy photography myself. However, I think my problem this time was more an issue of laziness and lack of time... Below is a photo I took a couple of days ago, when I took the time to get the shot set up properly (and get out the right equipment)

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When I get a little more time, I shall get the models out and take some nicer photos... I was just grabbing the opportunity to catch them together while they were all out :)

 

Interestingly, the background in the above shot is a kind of fabric... it's weed barrier from a local DIY store. Again, it shows what a difference lighting makes.

 

Rob

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The problem with fabrics is that it wrinkles and much more difficult to get right than for example paper or just a painted wall. But there are some fabrics that can work if it hangs correctly and dont take too much attension.  

 

Looking forward to see more photos of ur excellent ship!

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

 

More progress... just chipping away at various bits, really, while I summon the energy to finish off the bow.  

 

The tops make a nice mini-project. I didn't want to simply paint them all black, so I've used some of the remaining 0.5x4mm maple to plank them before putting on the diagonal strips.

 

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As it stands the black parts are just sat on top. I want to sand them down again and get another coat of black on before I stick them together. I'll probably mark the diagonals on before I glue them together as it will be easier to get a ruler onto the planks.

 

Happily, these parts seem very close to the AOTS plans, so I didn't see any need to scratch build these (other than the planking).

 

I'm really pleased with the contrast made between the maple and the black surround. Hopefully I shall have more progress to show soon.

 

As always, happy building!

 

Rob

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Hi all,

 

Thanks for the likes.

 

A little update as I work on the tops. I wanted to make sure the pattern of battens was correct on the tops, so looked at AOTS which only shows the outline of one of the tops.

 

Looking at the Caldercraft plans they aren't symmetrical (and it's worth noting that the diagram of the tops in the manual is at a slightly different scale to the plans as well, which is a little confusing.) Anyway... here's my best estimate of what these might look like drawn out in CAD and exported as PDF (screenshot below, and the download link below that).

 

Once the markings were drawn on, I glued the outer edge to the planking and clamped the tops down to try and prevent them from warping (which seems to be something of a losing battle at the moment!

 

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Tops.pdf

 

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Also, I decided to do a bit of work on the bowsprit. I worked out where the bits went on the bowsprit, and picked the bowsprit gammoning stops to do first... I created another template to allow me to line up the nine stops neatly, which is below. By my reckoning they need to cover 2/3 of the diameter of the bowsprit. It works out at 9x 1.2mm strip stops (I used 1mm), with 8x 1.2mm gaps in between. I marked the curve of the line of the stops on the bowsprit (further forward on top, further astern as they move further down the sides of the bowsprit. By cutting out the white space in-between the stops, I was able to fasten this round the bowsprit.

Stops.png.dc634c2f2151b8e90c7b3c4327ddcfd5.png

 

BowspritGammoningStops.pdf

 

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Once the glue's properly dried, I shall sand these down so they taper in. Pretty pleased with how they went on, though.

 

I think that's it for this evening :) 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

A little progress to report...

 

I've got the pin rails on the quarter deck. I replaced the kit belaying pins with the newer ones Caldercraft do (purchased from Cornwall model boats). I came across these making HM Schooner Pickle, and to me they look far more the part. Because of the open quarter deck rails, these were shortened at the bottom so that they didn't touch the deck.

 

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Now that the pin rails are in place, I'll know where I can put the attachments for the carronades and guns, and the other fixings on the bulkheads.

 

Happy building.

 

Rob

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A little more progress. I did a little more work on the bowsprit, and got some more paint on it. I was surprised how much I needed to sand, and paint, and sand and repaint the ramin dowel to get a good finish, but I think I'm getting there now. I slightly modified the layout at the outboard end to match the AOTS plans more closely. This included adding in a board in between the Caldercraft parts.

 

Now I'm placing and removing the bowsprit continually, I'm so glad I put the hole for it right through the bow - it's so sturdy. I think I got this idea from Jason (Beef Wellington) - so thank you! A very worthwhile modification.

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I also did a little more work on the tops. The fore top now has the strip added, and the mizzen top is underway. I have a little bit of twist in the fore top, but I'm hoping I'll be able to pull that out gently when I put the shrouds and futtock shrouds on. It's not crazy, but enough to bug me!

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Happy building!

 

Rob

 

 

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Looking good Rob, I like the black background, especially the photo from the stern

The clerk of the cheque's yacht of sheerness

Current build HMS Sirius (1797) 1:48 scratch POF from NMM plans

HMS Winchelsea by chuck 1:48

Cutter cheerful by chuck 1:48

Previous builds-

Elidir - Thames steam barge

Cutty Sark-Billings boats

Wasa - billings boats

Among others 😁

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Rob, love the last photo's, great to catch up on your progress.   She really is looking spectacular, the extra detailing in the tops is well worth the effort.  Something I remember reading somewhere (never seem to be able to remember where), was that rigging lines would have been secured to the open rail, the pin rails would only have been needed once the bulwarks were built up.  Hopefully someone can confirm.

 

Have been a little distracted myself recently and "Jason" is on a little hiatus right now.  Have been struggling with finding some reasonable quality maple strip that does not have horrible flaky edges and/or surface grain...

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Very nice work - what a Superb looking Frigate.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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2 hours ago, Beef Wellington said:

Something I remember reading somewhere (never seem to be able to remember where), was that rigging lines would have been secured to the open rail, the pin rails would only have been needed once the bulwarks were built up.

That would make perfect sense... it would also explain how they avoided that area becoming horrible cramped when rigging the guns... it really is quite a challenge to fit it all in (especially if the carronades are going to have training tackle going diagonally out from them - which I neglected to think of until all the holes were drilled!). Having got all the pin rails in, I think I'll have to live with it now. Not sure I'm brave enough to try and undo all that, and get it sanded, painted without messing up the deck. 

Thanks for the encouragement. Hope you find some good quality maple soon.

 

Rob

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