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Posted

Seeing that last photo Gaetan really shows how big your model is.  Don't breathe in any of that dust mate!

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted

Hello,

 

The tracing of the limber way is not the result of hazard or an approximation, it must be placed according to very precise rules.

 

(I hope that the translation of my text will be correct and understandable.)

First of all, it must always be placed in the middle of a strake to avoid disturbing the caulking of the shell, the oakum (tow ?) of which would inevitably block the channel when it’s in place. When it encounters the strake end, what happens at one time or another, an iron plate is placed under the joint.

The limber way must collect, under normal conditions, any infiltration water but especially the condensation water that forms in the hull (in the case of large waterways it no longer serves anything). To collect these "small waters", it’s imperative to be worked in a place where these waters can arrived, that’s means where the fills between the keel and the keelson leave a space forming receptacle. To cut the limber way in the deadwood as seen in a picture above is useless, technically and historically inexact.

In the central part of the vessel, the channel is located beneath the second strake curtain of which it follows the course. As it moves towards the ends, there is a place where the shapes of the hull begin to intercept the foot of the fills placed between the keel and the keelson causing the hole drilled at the foot of these fills to be raised. These holes passing through the foot of the fills must do their job, if covered by the planking, they are useless. The channel must be raised accordingly in order to collect the water present there without intercepting a strake caulking. It is then shifted from a strake of planking in height or two a few times.

 

GD

Posted (edited)

-> GB: Despite your very unpleasant comments about my drawings, I post this sketch for the understanding of this forum members.

 

It can be seen that the transverse hole must be raised in the filling pieces in order to remain efficient. This also implies that the limber way must be able to collect the water, it must also be raised but especially staying under a strake.

 

Gérard Delacroix59a56bbe13a0f_10_Boisage_canaldesanguillers-Model.jpg.a5d1bc0810009a2c53edffc29d6e0460.jpg

 

Edited by G. Delacroix
Posted

On the pictures, we see the control plank for perpendicularity in 2 ways. Others are sanding setups for all the curves.

 

The main 2 ways to assemble frames to the keel use a jig to align the frames between them:

 

- a plank supports the frame contour. Frames are assembled upside down as Hahn did or reverse.

 

-Frames alignment can also be done another way; with  just a baguette to align frames. This baguette moves  the same way as the assembly goes.

 

The other part of this assembly is the frame sanding. Again, there are 2 ways to do the sanding : the easy way and the hard way.

 

When a jig is used to support frames, most of the sanding will be done after gluing all the frames and after taking the frames out of the mold. This method is much more restrictive because the accessibility to all the frame parts is restricted when it is in the mold.

 

The other method has the advantage of ease of maneuverability in all the ways you need. Sanding is much more easy, at least for a model at 1/24 scale. Part  which need to be sanded can easily be position. Also another very important part : height adjusting table. Working at the good height is often the difference between holding a heavy part easily or with much difficulty.

 

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Posted

Hi Gaetan, you could also try to make her like an 'accordion' with a flexible bellows type construction to shorten/lengthen as required ;):)

 

Nice work by the way :)

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted

6 months of work and  the last one, sanding only.

 

Vibrations transfer to the frames while sanding, especially with the orbital sander. One way to avoid this is to insert spacers between each frames. This way, each frame does not resonate as when we pinch a violin cord but all the frames become a whole unit and vibrations disperses in the whole assembly.

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Posted

Nice work, Have you given thought to the overall weight of your finished project and how you are going to move it to its final resting place? Your pictures put it into perspective just how big and heavy this is going to end up being.

Finished builds are 

1/35 Endeavour's Longboat by Artesania Latina

1/36 scratch built Philadelphia Gunboat from the Smithsonian Plans

 

Current build is

Scratch build Boudroit's Monograph for La Jacinthe at 1/36

Posted

Hi noel_colledge,

 

The previous 74 guns 1/24 weighed 130 pounds. To move it, you need wheel as big as you can, the bigger, the easier, and I also a lifting table with a cylinder.

 

Good morning Carabrente,

 

When things are done correctly fillers inserts easily without pressure.  Fillers are all the same thickness at 95% and some are thicker. The idea is the same  as a pressure cooker, you need a valve to release pressure or else it will explode. The best things as others clearly well demonstrated is to a have a spacer not glued at every 4 to 6 frames.

Posted

Extraordinary - what a whopper of a ship!  Very nice work Gaetan, I look forward to your detail work.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted

Magnificent!  Just beautiful.

 

Rob

Current build:

Build log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25382-glory-of-the-seas-medium-clipper-1869-by-rwiederrich-196

 

 

Finished build:

Build log: of 1/128th Great Republic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13740-great-republic-by-rwiederrich-four-masted-extreme-clipper-1853/#

 

Current build(On hold):

Build log: 1/96  Donald McKay:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4522-donald-mckay-medium-clipper-by-rwiederrich-1855/

 

Completed build:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/475-196-cutty-sark-plastic/

The LORD said, "See, I have set (them) aside...with skills of all kinds, to make artistic designs for work in gold, silver, and bronze, to cut and set stones, to work in wood, and to engage in all kinds of crafts."

Posted

I did correct the spacers thickness on 1 section of about 20 frames.

I could fit the last spacer, but strength must be use, and this would be an error, not to correct it, because  this induce strength could bend some frames.

 

Roughly 1 spacer .215’’/ 20 frames : about .010’’ less : .215’’- .01 ‘’: .205’’ the new thickness.

 

For 60 frames, 60 times glue thickness changes the overall thickness. It is very difficult to do 60 frames with their components to exactly the same thickness  at 001’’ close.

Theoretical and practical thickness of the entire sandwich are different.

On 8 feet long, overall thickness was 1 spacer too thick , glue thickness is at least partially responsible and I am for the rest and even more.

 

Even if I could be precise at .001'', I would still have to subtract 60 frames, double thickness + 1 spacer: 60 X 3: 180 glue thickness probably at least .180''

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