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Posted

Rats... I worked for the wrong company.  Ours accumulated to 30 days.  If you had more, you either had to cash out, give it to someone who needed it, or lose it.  Most folks lost it.  I gave mine to people who needed it as was done when I needed it.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

we have a thing called FMLA  {family medical leave..not sure what A means} ........you have {I think} 21 weeks of leave......paid or not,  I'm not sure {never done it}.

   we get 192 sick days...we pay ourselves through our PTO accruements.   it used to be nice.......if you didn't use any,  any additional time accrued,  would turn into personal time,  which could be used anytime.   Wally has gone through so many changes these past couple of months....the sick time {we will never get to use},  no more personal time,  and the PTO  accruement program is prone to bugs and not very accurate.  it used to be good......now feel like we've been cheated out :( 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted (edited)

I have finally hollowed out the last of the big blast bags. Heres a peek at how I did it. 

IMG_2013.thumb.JPG.806e86d398d21b738cf2d1604bf5900d.JPGIMG_2014.thumb.JPG.ca6f9fd646621bdd60b070a9d33be0e6.JPG

All done,  thats the shavings from just one blast bag.

IMG_2016.thumb.JPG.5d019a8493ea0f55a15f846f5ce470dd.JPG

and finally all 8

IMG_2017.thumb.JPG.8f922ae96f0eab22883683600347e044.JPG

Now a trip to the hobby store for supplies.  I think I should prime these big guns I just don't know which primer works good with airbrush as I have never primed. I use tamiya paint so tamiya  primer would be a safe bet I suppose 

Edited by semorebutts
Posted

We almost never had to use sick time. Every time we had to work a holiday we received double time, I always took half of those days as comp time. If we had to show up for court or had stand by for court on days off we received 1/2 a day or a full day if we had to show up. I would take those as comp as well. Then any overtime or special duties for city events could also be added to the list. As you can see one could build up comp time pretty fast and it was not uncommon for some officers to have a month or more at the end of each year. We also could give sick time away to another officer. I only did it once when an officer was hit by an drunk driver while making a traffic stop and was standing next to the driver's door. He had both legs broken badly just above his motorcycle boots. The State only supplied a certain amount of workman's comp for recovery and his recovery time went for something over 18 months so he ran out of state money and his available time on his own books. Several of us pitched in some time and covered him until he could come back to work. 

 

Like CDW it was not all that uncommon for guys to retire with as much as one or even two years of comp/sick time to add to their retirement. If they left early though they lost all of their sick time!   

 

Lou

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

I'm self-employed; there's no such thing as sick leave. Enjoy it while you got it! Nice work on the guns.

Posted

Eric

I bet you don't have a 40 hour work week either!

 

Lou

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

Blast bags look excellent. Painting is always abit nerve wracking to begin. Good job.

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

 

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

Posted

cog I used tamiyas rattle can on the hull. I worry it will be to thick. Im very curious about tamiya surface primer, I hope it airbrushes ok. 

Also the blast bags have some holes in them so I'm going to use some putty to fill the holes.  Then I will brush on "panzer aces white 70.344" and hopefully it looks ok :huh:

Posted

You can dilute the primer, and spray a few layers, if you think it to thickish. That's what I did with e.g. vallejo

 

Turrets looking grand

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted (edited)

if you don't want to use the rattle can,  you can decant the paint into a bottle.   there is a nice tutorial on you tube about this........but I posted a thread here in nautical or shore leave,  how to do it without making a mess.   it will airbrush OK too  :)  and you can thin it if you want ;) 

 

the guns look great BTW  :) 

Edited by popeye the sailor

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted

So, a question regarding "Blast Bags" did you drill them using a small drill first or just go with the "Max" diameter?

(This is another one I've got in storage for a "One Day" thing, Inc. Mark 1 Detail stuff.)

My compressor needs a "Tank" to provide some definition.

I've got a 1/350 Tamiya, a 1/200 Part woks one but I think the Trumpeter version is the ultimate.

 

Following your build with interest looks awesome!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

Posted (edited)

Thanks Hoff, It was so difficult because the barrel is tapered the back is much thicker than the front so what I drilled out had to reflect that. I went for the max diameter first , I drilled very very slowly about half way until I felt it was going to break through the sides. then I moved to the smaller drill bit. once the small bit was through the rest of the way I filed the rest sliding the barrel in 20 times to check progress as you don't want to make it to big. just keep in mind this whole thing was super scary and aggravating! the thickness of the side walls in a lot of spots are literally paper thin. Also every blast bag is a different shape. I never want to do that again..wait I still have smaller blast bags for the smaller guns...ugh.

It bothered me so much I would never buy  another MK1 kit again if I know the blast bags have to be drilled out.

Edited by semorebutts
Posted (edited)

I basically just primed the barrels which is why I wanted to prime in the first place. 

IMG_2030.thumb.JPG.d73be74dba39a6313f93bfbeaee426d6.JPGIMG_2031.thumb.JPG.eb54ae6bca35062e39b23d8b4aa2b32b.JPG

 I am not a fan of lacquer  or in the enamel at all.  It smells nasty. And suddenly I had no idea how to clean my airbrush. Are usually use rubbing alcohol but all that did was clump up the paint,  so I ended up cleaning it with the lacquer thinner.  After all the paint was removed I  then cleaned with rubbing alcohol . Also does anybody know how long I should wait before I paint a second coat with acrylic?

Edited by semorebutts
Posted (edited)

Scott,

 

Every manufacturer has it's own timetable:

this one is humbrols

Paints

  • Enamel Gloss Paints: Surface dry 1 - 2 hours, Fully dry in 24 hours
  • Enamel Matt & Satin Paints: Surface dry  20-40 minutes, Fully dry in 24 hours
  • Enamel Metallics: Fully dry in approx 10 days
  • Acrylic paints: Fully dry in 1-2 hours, please allow longer for Gloss and Metallic finishes
  • Acrylic Sprays: 15-30 minutes

 

I wait for Tamiya primer to cure in in 48 hours. It all depends on the qty of thinner used, how thick the layer has been applied, and whether it is oil, or water based paint.

If you used the Tamiya primer, I would say give the curing 48 hours ... you shouldn't be in a hurry

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Well... there is a certain theme music I hear when I looked at those blaste... err... guns. :P

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

 The guns were supposed to be two-tone gray paint job.  I started by painting the bottom half the lighter gray. 

IMG_2040.thumb.JPG.d2d8d453eae0187c9e650611ea109496.JPG

 Then the barrels the darker gray 

IMG_2046.thumb.JPG.d92c4fafbad19487262073bb59cb4093.JPGIMG_2047.thumb.JPG.f29006a7f901626ee6338bea5e47022a.JPG

 but then I realized I could not mask off the bottom half with those delicate railings there.  I ended up  painting it all the light gray. 

 All that's left now is to paint the blast bags  and apply some shading. 

IMG_2050.thumb.JPG.5d89ae86bc1b23053bb80f1dc313c082.JPGIMG_2049.thumb.JPG.4dd8396c35d2f138a014ffa5cef1bd6f.JPG

Posted (edited)

Tell me Scott, why did you add the shading? It looks as if the grey layers blocked it out, or is it the pictures in which it is not visible (or my poor eyesight)?

There is an other option to mask without sticky tape. You can use a sheet of paper, cut into shape or straight as required, and hold it in front of the area to be masked. Might take some practice in the beginning ... it might do the trick ...

 

Forgot to add:
It's not meant as negative criticism, I know it's easy to comment from the side ...

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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