RKR Varyag by RGL - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC - Slava-class cruiser

[RGL]

Seriously I have no idea. Maybe on the windows? Maybe because it’s very hard? It’s a pain as it won’t sand well, and Ive learnt to add PE to plastic before paint in most cases. 

 

It’s actually great having lots of photos of him from all the ubiquitous Chinese tourists in Hong Kong who have posted a heap of HD photos. 

 

I intend on using lots lots of spare IJN stuff to superdetail it before I go to paint. If it ends up looking like crap so be it. Slow down. Enjoy it. Repeat mantra. 

[cog]

Ah, to test your infinite skills

[Papa]

I love the detail on this model.  Makes me want to try my hand at a plastic battleship!

[popeye the sailor]

clear plastic can be a pain to cut.......it's raw plastic with no color additives to soften it.   you've done an amazing job there Greg...quite a bit given the time line  

[RGL]

IN a very slow part of the build, I’ve commenced adding details to the main superstructure. I’ve added extra conduits (that appear on the real thing), and have a hell better f a long ways to go. 

[cog]

That will blow a hole in your PE stash Greg ... looks rather smashing ...

[RGL]

Mate it’s 2000’s design, the latest stuff is probably better engineered. The final part is very convoluted. But; that’s the last of the complex stuff. I need to go back and keep detailing up the bits I’ve done and some of the other bits. 

[RGL]

The pop group radar/Fire control for the SAM’s. A quick search on Facebook and there is a lot of open source on this ship. 

[popeye the sailor]

the tower structure looks really super........all that PE looks awesome     really nice progress Greg!

[Papa]

The detail is getting even more amazing!

[RGL]

Back to reality and the hull. It’s really smooth. Really really smooth. You can see from the photo that’s not real life. 

 

I oversprayed lots lots of layers of rattle can primer to give me a good base and I’m now in the process of lightly scribing panels into the primer (not the plastic). Unlike the old warships, there are no bolt on external Armor bands. This will make a base for the preshading and oil canning when painting. I hope. 

[cog]

How much primer (layers) id you use before scribbling? Looks rather good so far ... I wouldn't work outside this time of the year though, not even for sanding or spraying

[RGL]

It’s 35 degrees here (95 f?)Dries very quickly. 

 

Only a few passes gives enough definition,with more coats to go over the top, preshading and weathering it should be subtle, 

[lmagna]

Carl

 

They get to have summer down there this time of year. 

 

Lou

 

Greg looks like we posted at the same time. Enjoy the warmth! 95 is a little warm here for me. We seldom get that hot here in the Pacific NW. 

Edited December 13, 2017 by lmagna

[RGL]

 Notice  the time

Edited December 13, 2017 by RGL

[lmagna]

Interesting temperatures. They are about the same as our hottest months, (July/August) for about 3 or 4 pm in the afternoon. The rain and stuff in your forecast looks about the same though.

 

Lou 

[RGL]

Summer has just started, the 40’s are uncomfortable. 

[cog]

2 hours ago, lmagna said:

They get to have summer down there this time of year. 

 

Gosh, never would have thought that possible ...

 

1 hour ago, RGL said:

Notice  the time

 

You're up late, mate. Can't sleep because of the heat ...?

 

1 hour ago, RGL said:

Summer has just started, the 40’s are uncomfortable. 

 

So if this is the prelude to summer ... what will it bring when it's in full swing ...

[RGL]

Really too hot to do anything but drink beer. Or when working outside tell people to go inside. 

[cog]

Opened a "beer" account at the shop to keep topped up ...?

I'd rather have the heat, though, snow and rain ain't what you're looking for !

[CDW]

Super good reference photos to work from. Really looking nice, Greg.

[lmagna]

Greg

I have lived in this mild climate for so long that if we reached temperatures in the 40s I would just be a puddle on the floor with eyeballs sticking out! In fact most people in this area do not take heat well and not many even have air conditioning except in their cars. Luckily the ocean breeze helps us avoid most of that kind of heat.

The highest temperature for my city that I can find is 36.6 in June of 1955. It does get a little hotter a few miles from here in Seattle because of the way the ocean breezes blow.

 

Lou  

[RGL]

Only 27 at the moment and almost beer o’clock. Preshading begins along the etched panel lines. I think I’ll do it again with a red/black mix, then give it a varnish coat, add some chipping fluid in places, then paint (this is below the water line) then do a bit of chipping before I do a boot strap and white water line. 

[BANYAN]

Hi Greg; just found your new log - very interesting subject it is too.  Nice work so far, lots and lots of minor details on these 'beasties'. 

 

cheers

 

Pat

[RGL]

I have re attacked the pre shading, then covered the black bits with Matt varnish, the idea is to then put chipping fluid on top of the black prior to commencing painting. The chipping fluid is apparently good for 2 day’s under paint, but there is a full day’s work just getting the bottom of the hull right. I’m going to let that sit until a good black of day’s off. 

 

That way, once the hull red is added, I can chip away at areas for wear and tear that will appear as bare metal. This ship requires a boot strap and white line as well, then I can the add grunge. 

 

Next, just arrived from France after a weeks trip to Oz, tannoys it speakers, which are fairly liberally festooned around the ship. 

 

Someone in Singapore flew a drone over the Varyag this year and the HD video is amazing and I have picked up a lot of details on the superstructure I have to revisit. The kit does not come close to covering it all. 

Edited December 15, 2017 by RGL

[RGL]

Small coats of chipping fluid, then filling the squares with coca brown. Next will be a dark red for the edges and some lighter colours for fading. 

[RGL]

I have a black Vajello primer, I love the colour but I hate the paint as it Boggs up the airbrush very quickly. It saves time with preshading but more importantly it shows up where I have missed. 

[RGL]

and a few more of a real hull in the stages of a refit. I can still grunge him up a bit yet.

[amateur]

I am a complete ignoramus on these apint-jobs.

could you explain the procedure?

you apint black lines along the plate,edges, but why? You go over it with a couple of colours in several layers. What does this black add?

 

Jan

[cog]

depth as in shadow lines.

 

I should elabortate: when you want to give depth to a structure on a flat surface, you can add it by giving shadows to it (like in a painting Rembrandt, Vermeer, etc all did it) You can also do it on a 3D model with a flat surface, by drawing dark lines on it, and spraying thin (semi) translucent layers of the colours which will in the end give the required colour on top, in this way you can add depth to a flat surface. However if you would first colour e.g. the hull, and add the darker lines afterwards, the shadow effect would be lost, as it would not have a natural shadow appearance. Instead of black, you could also use dark purple or dark (navy) blue, which is mostly used in water colour, gouache, and oil painting to set a shadow ...

Edited December 21, 2017 by cog