Jump to content

HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:48 scale


Recommended Posts

B.E. (and Kurt) you are just so darn inventive. I wish I was behind you guys so I could benefit from your ideas but I’m well into hull planking now. The only small suggestion I can make is that when it comes to thinning the stern flank pieces, think about using a jewelry saw instead of a dremel drum to get very close to where you need to be. I just didn’t trust myself to hit the adjacent stern frames. Worked perfectly and reduced the sawdust and noise fury.

 

Ian 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Excellent work as always B.E.    When you said ports, I thought you had meant gun ports.  When I was looking at them I started to wonder how they would get a gun all the way up to that area because that large curve up from the deck. Then I went and looked at the reference pictures on the Syren site and realize that there were no guns in that area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn’t clear up concerning those ports. The forward most ports have regular guns, but I can’t imagine how you could fight them either, they’re shoe horned in there.

 

I was very leary of thinning those frames, I have a very fine fret saw blade that should do the trick. Thanks.

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nicely done BE.  The stern to me is one of those make or break parts of the model, and it looks like you executed it flawlessly. 

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those Stern ports are still niggling  Kurt, other examples of cutters show a small aft platform covering the Rudder head on which stern chaser guns are mounted. There is an example of such an arrangement in The Naval Cutter Alert book by Peter Goodwin, showing a cutter model circa 1785 (The Science Museum)

Still I've more pressing matters on my mind at present but I may return to the subject later.

@ Mike, 'flawlessly' - if only:rolleyes:

Post 11

Square Tuck, and completion of Chapter Two.

The Square Tuck piece was easily cut from 1/32" sheet Boxwood using a scalpel. 

DSC04830.thumb.JPG.fffbda4edd5cda087d4fa0bde34b7472.JPG

4830

I briefly wet the piece before clamping it in position overnight to give a bit of conformation and to take the stress out before gluing.

DSC04834.thumb.JPG.368a2bd1e1ffebc934d5a20dee41226c.JPG

4834

Glued into place using pva.

DSC04837.thumb.JPG.cbbea30ef49e7081c5edb8dc16ec106a.JPG

4837

DSC04842.thumb.JPG.b6f89b27401c727b7664c81ca52ada43.JPG

4842

There is a subtle concave shape to the Square Tuck piece once it is glued into place.

DSC04873.thumb.JPG.97d59ebbcbee23c747d3090c2a9094e6.JPG

4873

A Balsa infill was placed behind the Square Tuck piece as indicated in the Instructions.

Now the tricky bit, getting the formation around the two outer stern frames properly faired to take the wale termination, struggling a little to get my head around this at the moment.

 

B.E.

03/02/2018

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi B.E.,

 

Just catching up with your latest build, you're off to an excellent start, that's shaping up to be one slick-looking hull:)

Best regards,

Aldo

Currently Building:
HMS Pegasus (Victory Models)-Mothballed to give priority to Triton

 

HMS Triton (first attempt at scratchbuilding)

 

 


Past build:
HM Brig Badger (Caldercraft), HM Brig Cruizer, HM Schooner Ballahoo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coming along very nicely. 87023845-D9A6-47FB-B707-70445B199DF9.thumb.jpeg.b6079ead8b03260909aedc17baf149f2.jpegWe’re pretty much at the same place. I’m planning to put a bamboo treenail in the first wale layer at each bulkhead since I had to spend so much time with the warping. Probably won’t do anything other than make me feel better. 

 

Kurt

 

 

I can’t figure out how to place images where I want them with regards to text.

C4801674-F433-4E1F-B6BA-B8F727507891.jpeg

365057C8-8DA5-4A52-9099-74559B163F2E.jpeg

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi B.E.

 

Just found (and am admiring) your latest build. I first came across your work when I was struggling with my Royal Caroline. I'd given up on the kit version of the ship's boat and I was searching for inspiration on the forum. Your superb use of the scaled down MS Pinnace kit for your Pegasus was just what I needed and I shamelessly copied your idea, albeit at the slightly more forgiving 1:48 scale. I've got the added bonus of the pinnace kit to look forward to when I (eventually?!) finish the Royal Caroline. I subsequently read your Pegasus log from start to finish, and still frequently dip into it for ideas and inspiration (and to chuckle at your emojis and dry wit!).

 

I'm interested to see that you're also a Proxxon fan. I couldn't manage half as well without my Proxxon tools, particularly the micro-mill, spar lathe and bandsaw - especially in terms of accuracy. I was interested to see that you have now gone for both their planer and their thicknesser. I'd wondered about adding one or both to my workshop but was concerned that they might be slightly too beefy for the small scales we work at. How have you found them so far? By the way, thanks for the tip on the German supplier - I hadn't realised we could save so much over UK prices.

 

Anyway, many thanks for taking the time and trouble to share your builds - it's much appreciated.

 

Derek

Cheers, Derek

 

Current build:   Duchess of Kingston

On hold:              HMS Winchelsea

 

Previous builds:  HMS SpeedyEnglish Pinnace, Royal Yacht Caroline (gallery),

                            Victory Cross-section (gallery), US Clipper Albatros, Red Dragon (years ago!)

 

On the stocks:    18th Century Longboat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, as of now I don't have a build. When I start reading builds I find them almost addictive waiting for the next installment. That is the case with your builds. I really find it a disappointment when a build you are following closely suddenly stops and leaves you hanging. I started this model almost 2 years ago and it sat for a year and a half untouched ( I have no idea why), and that's when it decided to warp. I have started many model projects that just abruptly stopped for no valid reason other than I became interested in something else. One of my challenges with this beautiful model is to see it through to completion. I have worked on hundreds of models over the years and finished one or two, and I feel this is one of the finest I have ever seen. After reading Longridge's Victory, and Underhill's Leon 2 or 3 times over the years, I have always wanted to create something like that. My personal dream would be a 74. Hopefully, I'll complete this. That is my goal. One regret I have with this project is that I didn't get all the wood before hand. All my old sources are no more, and it is getting harder to obtain decent wood. I'm presently waiting on some from Wood Project Source so we'll see how that works out. I only have a small amount of 3/64 inch for planking. I have a few pieces of 1/16 inch, but I'm very reluctant to reduce it and then really need 1/16 inch. So that's my story.

 

Regards,

Kurt

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kind of you to say so Derek, I'm glad my stuff has been of help to you.:)

 

I haven't used either the planer or thicknesser very much yet, but they certainly have their uses on the model makers bench. The thicknesser is ideal for thinning down sheet and strip stuff when what you've got is just a tad too thick, but it is quite an expensive bit of kit.

I have used the planer more, particularly for reducing square stuff to specific sizes and cleaning and squaring up stuff for scratch building. Much easier than trying to hand plane smallish lengths of timber.

The Mill is a very useful tool, and I wouldn't be without it, but the machine I've used most is the scroll saw, wouldn't have liked to attempt the frames for the 1:64 scale Pinnace and Longboat for Pegasus without it.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again B.E. I used a jeweller's piercing saw to cut out the frames for the pinnace and spent most of the time threatening to get a scroll saw. However I'd just spent rather a lot on one of my other hobbies (astronomy) and felt it politic not to upset Senior Management. So I struggled on.

Cheers, Derek

 

Current build:   Duchess of Kingston

On hold:              HMS Winchelsea

 

Previous builds:  HMS SpeedyEnglish Pinnace, Royal Yacht Caroline (gallery),

                            Victory Cross-section (gallery), US Clipper Albatros, Red Dragon (years ago!)

 

On the stocks:    18th Century Longboat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Post 12

Preparation for the Wale.

To mark the lower wale edge I  gave the trial strip a lateral curve using wet and heat, hoping to take some of the fight out of it when fixing to the bulkheads.

DSC04973.thumb.JPG.4ce340710013467224e59a1e58d668f2.JPG

4973

DSC04975.thumb.JPG.378c71545da1e0e21c27c0466a2dec29.JPG

4975

DSC04976.thumb.JPG.468b6453f26e1ad954751afaaff20bc3.JPG

4976

It strikes me that this could be left temporarily in situ as a guide rail to fix the actual lower Boxwood Wale strip on top of it to follow the correct sheer.

Any of my fellow Cheerful builders got any thoughts on this, any potential snags envisaged in following this approach?

 

B.E.

 

07/02/2018

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did it like Kurt did but I don't see why you couldn't leave it place. 

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

She looks really nice BE. I have this kit and all the accessories sitting on the shelf right over my work bench staring back at me every day. I have 3 projects going right now but am itching to start a new one. I'll follow along with you until I decide what to do.

The heart is happiest when the head and the hands work together.

Al

 

Current Builds:

HMS Halifax 1/48 POF Lumberyard Kit

Model Shipways Glad Tidings

Acoustic Guitar Build FINISHED

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great.  For some reason I thought that leaving a "temporary" strip to place the permanent wales on was normal practice for modeling.  Then removing it prior to any lower planking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your responses guys.

Leaving the strip in place seemed a logical thing to do given the time spent getting the line right but as there had been no mention of doing this it set a doubt in my mind that there was some issue I hadn't considered.

With the strip in place the  boxwood 'proper' strip can be pressed down into position without having to watch for slippage below the line whilst gluing, and the guide strip can also be used to assist holding the wale strip in place.

Only thing I can see as a possible problem is the risk of excess glue sticking the wale to the guide strip.

 

I'll give it a go. :)

 

B.E.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Post 13

Fixing the Wales

The 5/32" x 3/64" milled Boxwood Strips provided by Jason, are a pleasure to work with.

DSC05002.thumb.JPG.3fbce35e6b7d3d078f3cad554934495e.JPG

5002

The forward end was given a little  water/heat treatment to impart a tension free curve around the bow, but along the sheer the strips sat down on the guide strip without much pressure.

DSC05062.thumb.JPG.25f359fa9adcfc44a27f3b17d2d1d8f4.JPG

5062

I left the guide strips in situ during fixing the lower wale strip which I found to be useful. The push pin heads held the wale strip close to the bulkheads whilst the glue set, and wooden pegs held the strip down tight on the guide.

DSC05069.thumb.JPG.ec7cfe417df0c1bd6fa1922aa603320c.JPG

5069

The second upper layer of the wale is added.

DSC05124.thumb.JPG.658c7199340cb7621639d6bf0acf1a72.JPG

5124

DSC05125.thumb.JPG.04a51c27c7c89d64d299c85b9dad78e2.JPG

5125

DSC05122.thumb.JPG.598b29c41dfb8b17ecdef8ac919d3f3d.JPG

5122

DSC05121.thumb.JPG.63036343c27b016b68a7116470ab6f19.JPG

5121

DSC05119.thumb.JPG.c84ffd2c79c356daaf87339d84a0ddfe.JPG

5119

Paint considerations

At this time painting around and inside the gun ports is suggested, mainly I suspect because once the moulding strip  below the ports, and the bulwarks are planked, painting the small rebate around the ports without marring the Boxwood would be difficult.

This doesn't fully address the issue tho'  as I can imagine there will need to be a fair bit of touching up following the thinning down of the bulwark interiors.

 

I have used the paint mix I used for my Long boat build to lay down an initial coat of paint, but doubt I have enough for Cheerful . These days I am always careful to make sure I have enough to finish the job when using a mix, something that has caught me out on a previous project.

 

I've ordered a few paint samples to run a test, if I can find a ready mixed paint that fits the bill, all the better.

 

B.E.

12/02/2018

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking great. I just started the first plank above the wale.I highly recommend heat bending the planks with a hair dryer ala Chuck Passaro. It’s the first time I tried it and it worked like a charm! Best part is there isn’t any wait to use the plank. There are videos on MSW, under Chuck’s planking videos.

 

Kurt

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Kurt, I'm well acquainted with Chuck's magic hairdryer method, use it all the time. :D What an asset he is to us ship modellers.

I've been thinking ahead today about the False Deck and I realise that I don't have the material for this as yet. Chuck used 1/16" Basswood sheet which would need to be some 6" wide x 16" long.

We don't have such sizes in the UK readily available, although 1.5mm x 100mm x 1000mm  sheets are.

Looks like at least over here I will have to glue two sheets together to form the false deck, not really a problem, and I will have the centre line clearly marked.:)

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve read your builds, but I couldn’t recall whether or not you had used it. It was my first time and I am really pleased with it. It’s kind of funny that we use the Imperial system and you no longer do. When I was in college there was rumbles of going metric, but the excuse was retooling for industry would cost to much. Industry lobbies have a lot of clout. I can use both, but visually can guesstimate better in inches. I never could convert Celcius in my head though. 

 

Kurt

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Although I have to work in metric, our materials are now mostly sold in metric, I still think in imperial.

Weights in particular I visualise in imperial, and I also still  convert petrol in litres to gallons in my head as I’m filling the car up. Old habits die hard.

Maybe we’ll convert back when we leave th E.U. - but I’m not holding my breath. ;)

 

B.E.

 

Edited by Blue Ensign
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi BE,your Cheerful is coming along nicely. Have you considered using 1.5 mm ply for the false deck it's only 5 thou thinner and you can cut it in one piece out of a sheet. I did for mine it worked a treat,just epoxied it down. I had the same problem as you with the bow fillers just added a thin piece on top. Thought I'd made a booboo as I'm scratch building mine except for the windlass. Building is on hold just now until I have the cataract op on my left eye next month. My vision just now with one good and one bad eye leaves much to be desired as my specs are now useless.

 

Regards and keep up the good work.

 

Dave :dancetl6:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi BE,if you are interested have a look at this website. www.massiv-holz-werkstatt.de 

 

He has a large selection of timbers at good prices, eg a 1000mm x 200mm x 1.5 mm plank of Linde (Limewood) would cost €7.30 +p&p.

I bought all the Pearwood for my Cheerful build from him,excellent quality it is too. He says he will cut wood to any size you wish,so

I guess he would do Imperial sizes if you asked. He does speak English,however his website is in German. I did my order by email and

bank transfer.

On his homepage click on Produkte,then scroll down to Brettchen (planks) all are from .5mm to 50mm thick x 1000 x 100 mm.

I've no connection to his company just a happy customer. My order arrived within a few days of payment.

 

Kind regards and thank you for your good wishes, 

 

Dave :dancetl6:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...