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Rustyj

Queen Anne Barge by Rustyj - Syren Ship Model - 1:24

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Hi All, I had the good fortune to obtain one of the Queen Ann Royal Barge's from Syren Ship Model Company.

 

I've decided to start doing some of the building while working on the Syren re-rigging. It will make a pleasant break

from redoing the yards and the running rigging. 

 

The kit comes with two sheets of plans and numerous sheets of laser cut parts. As expected all were in perfect

condition upon their arrival.

 

First I started on making the frames. You can see a faint laser line across the futtock frame.

This is a reference line for placement of the frame floor. Using this reference line insures uniform 

placement of all the floors.

 

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The futtock and the floor.

 

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A straight edge is placed along the line.

 

 

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I clamped the straight edge on the frame, applied glue to the frame floor and then butt it against the straight edge and waited for it to dry.

A small weight was placed on the floor while it was drying.I can do two frames at a time. Hopefully care was used to not use too much

glue so I can later remove the center away from the futtock.


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There are a total of 23 frames. 19 that have a separate futtock and floor that need to be assembled. While they are drying I'll work on the keel. 

 

The fun has begun!

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Welcome aboard everyone and thanks for all the likes!

 

Antony,  There is an abundance of popcorn available so sit back and relax!

 

Hi Bob, The design of this kit just about assures success. 

 

Hi Alde, It was a stroke of luck that I stumbled on it before they were sold out again! Good luck!

 

Thanks Steve.

 

 

 

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Moving along I have assembled all of the frames. It went very smoothly.

 

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I've also been able to complete the keel assembly. Chuck did a great job on the scarf joints. You did not need to sand the char off and the fit was perfect.

 

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Thanks for stopping by!

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Hi Ian and thank you for the kind words.

 

I've got everything ready to attach the keel to the frames. First the frames are placed into each half

of the base board. Some minor sanding was needed for each slot in the base board to get a good fit.

The frames can't be too tight or too loose in the base because it could cause problems releasing the frames later on. 

 

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Here are the frames set ready for gluing to the keel. After I took the picture I noticed an error.

The two 0 frames should not face in the same direction. One faces fore and one faces aft.

Thankfully I noticed it before I glued it up! Phew.

 

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Here half of the frames are glued to the keel and drying.

 

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Once dry I'll glue the other half to the keel and then fair the frames.

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Both halves have been glued to the keel, dried and fairing is mostly completed.

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I've started prepping the spiled planks. They are 1/32" (.08mm) thick so they are delicate.

Laser  char is gently removed with a sanding stick. You will also see a faint laser etched

line in the plank. A bevel from the laser line to the edge was created with the sanding stick too.

 

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Here you see a plank formed to fit by heat bending until it lays on the frames without being forced.

 

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This is a whole lot of fun!

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Thanks and welcome aboard Tim!

 

Thank Bob! 

 

The centers have now been removed from the frames. Like Ben I found using a fine razor saw worked well for me.

 

IMG_2610.thumb.JPG.795d759bf8150dfc9d0132df0db72cdc.JPG

 

Next is adding the cap rail and fairing the inboard frames.

IMG_2611.JPG

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Now that the barge has been released from the building board it can be used to hold the model in the upright position.

 

Chuck supplied the wood pieces and now it is held firmly is place.

 

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Next I sanded the tops of the frames flush with the planking in preparation of adding the cap rail.

 

The cap rails finished width is 5/64". you can see that a piece is plenty wide enough was provided.

 

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You can see I marked how wide it would be when sanded to its proper width.

 

The rails were added and then sanded flush to the outboard planking.

 

I then marked a reference line to guide me while sanding the inboard  frames and rail.

 

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I also used a 5/64"  gauge to ensure a correct width.

 

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