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Posted
32 minutes ago, wefalck said:

Only two things are missing: the trigger and the finger-guard at the pistol-grip

Modern rules: the guns must be de-commissioned. 🤐

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

Posted

Beautiful guns. They look nicer than my Amapa’s and mine is at 1/64. And, by the way, I also missed the firing pistol. 

Ras

 

Current builds:

Stern Paddle Wheeler ZULU-1916-1/48 scale

Previous builds:

Freccia Celeste-1927 350cc racing motorcycle-1:9 scale-Protar kit

Boeing B17F- 1/72 scale- Hasegawa kit

HMS Mimi-scale 1/24-Fast Motor Launch                               

Amapá 1907-1/64 scale-Brazilian Customs Cruiser

Scottish Motor Fifie. 1/32 scale. Amati kit

Patricia. Steam powered R/C launch. 1/12 scale. Krick Kit

African Queen. Steam powered  R/C launch. 1/24 scale. Billings ki

Emma C. Berry. Sailing fishing smack. 1/32 scale. Model Shipways kit.

Posted

Gobsmacked.......again. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Valeriy,

 

I just spent the day re-reading your log from start to here to refresh my memory of your building techniques. I wanted to see how you get such beautiful finishes on your metal parts.

 

You said you used Zapon varnish on the brass parts, and you nickle plate a lot of the metal.

 

How do you polish the metal before paining or plating it?

 

Does the metal plating just naturally produce a smooth shiny surface?

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted

Phil, polishing brass is not a very difficult process.

 

1)  If I make a part on a lathe and the forosho cutter is sharpened, then the surface of the part already becomes smooth.
After that, I sand the part with sandpaper of various sizes from about # 320 to # 1200 until I get the desired shiny surface. This part of polishing is easier to do immediately on a lathe, but if the part is complex, then you have to work manually and with a drill.

Posted

3) The final operation is the coating of the zapon part with varnish. This transparent varnish will close the surface of the metal from the access of oxygen and the brass part will retain its mirror shine for a long time.

If the detail is small, you can apply varnish with a brush, if it is large, you can cover it with a balloon.

s2.jpg

Posted

Valeriy,

 

Thanks. I have used some rouges for polishing but I was interested in how you do it. Your results are beautiful!

 

I have also puzzled over what to do when a bit of solder flows over visible areas on brass parts. The tin in the solder dissolves into the brass leaving a tin colored stain. Careful positioning of the solder areas to inside or non-visible places helps, but sometimes a visible solder fillet is necessary. Blackening and other coloring agents don't work evenly over these exposed high tin areas.

 

But it seems you solve this problem by nickle plating the parts. The plating covers the brass and solder areas evenly. Looks like I will have to set up plating equipment. I already have power supplies and I was an undergraduate chemistry major so that part will be simple.

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted

Valeriy, wonderful guns - no one will miss the detail.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

Posted
33 minutes ago, Dr PR said:

 

But it seems you solve this problem by nickle plating the parts. The plating covers the brass and solder areas evenly. Looks like I will have to set up plating equipment. I already have power supplies and I was an undergraduate chemistry major so that part will be simple.

Phil, nickel plating won't solve your problem. On top of the tin, the nickel will be darker than in the adjacent brass area.

To solve this problem, it is necessary to open the part with copper before nickel plating.

Posted

Valeriy,

 

Thanks. I did notice that you plated some parts with copper before nickle plating, and wondered if that was to get a more uniform nickle plating.

 

But the real solution is to just be careful with the soldering. Using a minimum amount of solder helps, and a good liquid flux (I like citrus based fluxes) helps promote solder flow between pieces.

 

I also have a resistance soldering machine and have experimented some with it. It has the advantage that heat is generated at the contact/solder point, reducing heating of adjacent parts and previous solder joints.

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted

This last session feels like I am attending a class with the best professors sharing their knowledge. Thanks

Valeriy, tell me what is forosho cutter. 

Ras

 

Current builds:

Stern Paddle Wheeler ZULU-1916-1/48 scale

Previous builds:

Freccia Celeste-1927 350cc racing motorcycle-1:9 scale-Protar kit

Boeing B17F- 1/72 scale- Hasegawa kit

HMS Mimi-scale 1/24-Fast Motor Launch                               

Amapá 1907-1/64 scale-Brazilian Customs Cruiser

Scottish Motor Fifie. 1/32 scale. Amati kit

Patricia. Steam powered R/C launch. 1/12 scale. Krick Kit

African Queen. Steam powered  R/C launch. 1/24 scale. Billings ki

Emma C. Berry. Sailing fishing smack. 1/32 scale. Model Shipways kit.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Wishing you the best Stay safe

Ras

 

Current builds:

Stern Paddle Wheeler ZULU-1916-1/48 scale

Previous builds:

Freccia Celeste-1927 350cc racing motorcycle-1:9 scale-Protar kit

Boeing B17F- 1/72 scale- Hasegawa kit

HMS Mimi-scale 1/24-Fast Motor Launch                               

Amapá 1907-1/64 scale-Brazilian Customs Cruiser

Scottish Motor Fifie. 1/32 scale. Amati kit

Patricia. Steam powered R/C launch. 1/12 scale. Krick Kit

African Queen. Steam powered  R/C launch. 1/24 scale. Billings ki

Emma C. Berry. Sailing fishing smack. 1/32 scale. Model Shipways kit.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Ditto on Sasha's comments. Beautiful work. What is amazing to me is how you can duplicate pieces so accurately at such a small scale.

Ras

 

Current builds:

Stern Paddle Wheeler ZULU-1916-1/48 scale

Previous builds:

Freccia Celeste-1927 350cc racing motorcycle-1:9 scale-Protar kit

Boeing B17F- 1/72 scale- Hasegawa kit

HMS Mimi-scale 1/24-Fast Motor Launch                               

Amapá 1907-1/64 scale-Brazilian Customs Cruiser

Scottish Motor Fifie. 1/32 scale. Amati kit

Patricia. Steam powered R/C launch. 1/12 scale. Krick Kit

African Queen. Steam powered  R/C launch. 1/24 scale. Billings ki

Emma C. Berry. Sailing fishing smack. 1/32 scale. Model Shipways kit.

Posted

Thanks to everyone who follows my work for your likes and comments! :) 

 

Judging by my life, I can say that difficult times exist all the time, they sometimes become less difficult, and sometimes very difficult. But both will have to be lived to the fullest.

 

16 hours ago, Ras Ambrioso said:

 What is amazing to me is how you can duplicate pieces so accurately at such a small scale.

Ras, this duplication is helped by the use of turning and milling machines.

Posted
6 hours ago, cotrecerf said:

Hello Valeriy,

happy to hear from you.

Your philosophic view of difficult times in life pleases me very well, and I am sure you have not forgotten to live to the fullest your easy, beautiful and happy times, too.

Your work is breathtaking as usual.

Best wishes and greetings

 

Joachim

 

 

Thanks Joachim!

I hope that my happiest times are still ahead of me. :) 

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