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Merchant ship Mayflower by AntonyUK - FINISHED - as first built c.1600 in Harwich UK - all guess work

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Merchant ship Mayflower by Antony - Scale , 1600 as first built in Harwich UK.


This is the Start of a Mayflower build.

The main points are: - It has to be a Longitudinal section (from Bow to Stern)

Must be large enough to give scale and details of the conditions aboard the Mayflower in the 1620’s.

And be completed before the 400 Mayflower celebrations (16th September 2020).

I have the plans from https://www.plimoth.com/products/mayflower-ii-model-ship-plans Thanks to Jaager here on MSW.  https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/18809-mayflower-2-plans/

I also have the book :- The Mayflower and other colonial vessels. by William A Baker.

And a Thanks to Druxey for pointing out a link. https://www.thenrg.org/resources/The_Journal/58-4%20Nautical%20Research%20Journal.pdf

I will Not be building the ship from the plans I have But will maintain the basic shape from the plans.

I will be putting in 3 decks.  I think this is only way they would of built her in the early 16 century.

Also I will be planking the inside of the Hull as it gives the model much more strength. Probably was not done on the original 1600 ship.

There will be No rigging or mast on this model.

Drawing are done in Adobe Illustrator CS2 which is my preferred drawing software.


The Keel  is of mixed timbers . 12 inch ruler and veneer  is for scale comparison.



Detail of Stern area. Not yet finished.



Detail of Bow area. Not yet finished.



Ribs cut out. Not yet fitted.



Jig For holding Keel  and Ribs.



Yes its another monster size of model. But it will be fit for purpose.


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  • 3 weeks later...


Just a late update..

Got distracted by a bedroom that needed clearing and decorating.

Grandson now has his own bedroom that's Dinosaur themed.

Onto the Mayflower..

Have been working on the model for a few hours here and there and making some progress.




The Bow area is now the correct shape according to drawings.



All the frames (False) have been faired on the inside only and tested with strips 2 X 6 strip wood. 




The Yellow card is cut to shape of the contour lines on the interior planking. I will mark out the planks as I lay them and transfer the cut lines to the planks.



View from the tops.



Timber has been rough cut to the camber of the decks (Saves me from bending a load of timber latter on in the build. And the 3 strips are pre bent with heat only. So far after 2 weeks they have moved back 1\5. Not as much as I expected then to move.









Will do the majority of the Visual cleaning much later after the outer hull has been planked.

Will be using Many types of timber throughout the build. as there will be No painting done on the model.


That's it for now. Please ask if there is anything that I have missed.


Regards Antony.

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Thanks for the Likes.

Fernando.   Just to list the main ones that I have stock off. And the intended usage.

Cherry. Used for keel and other bits.

Ash. Used for inner planking above the waterline.

Mahogany. Used for inner planking below the waterline.

Tulipwood. Used for deck planking.

Alaskan yellow cedar. Outer planking. 

Walnut. General usage.

Sapele. General usage.

Iroko. General usage.

Rosewood. Decorative usage.

Well that's the main list of the timber I have at this moment in time. Might add a few others.


Regards Antony.

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The answer to your question.. 

Yes. Ship is split on the keel centre exposing all the interior. Will be adding a lot of Interior details as the build progress.

There are not very many supports that will hold the decks. I might need to have a Polycarbonate or Acrylic frount panel that will support the decks during and after construction. Not sure on this yet.


Regards Antony.

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  • 2 weeks later...


Time for the updates.


A few planks laid. Not much to see but the fairing of the interior of the hull is good.



Yes the small gap is intentional.




One of the reasons I have not been working on the Mayflower very much is the new Shed/Man cave...  Well its finished.

Its a 8ft X 12ft Pent shed that has been Pressure treated then 4 coats of a good preserver. Insulation has 60mm Celotex then covered with 12mm red wood cladding.

Electrics is the only thing I have had done for me. LED lighting is very nice and bright. without costing a small fortune to run them.












Thanks for looking in.

Regards Antony.


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  • 2 weeks later...


On ‎12‎/‎23‎/‎2018 at 9:18 AM, Mirabell61 said:

congrats to your beautiful workshop Antony,

love that long window front with view in the garden ? , and the simultanious lighting rows over the benches when daylight is fading



Hi Nils. Yea that's is a Nice view with the wild life we have makes it even better. Gotta replace the rest of the fence panels this week. Wind damage got two of them.


Another Update.

Hull interior is making good progress and I am happy with the finish. The hull shape is look nice with no dips or bumps.

The upper framing timbers are now in place.  These will not be planked in the inside .

The interior planking will go up to the deck of the main deck.


The forward mast support in in place.



Interior planking at the Bow.



Interior planking at the Stern.



Stern upper framework.



Bow upper framework.



Planking as it is today Bow Area.



Planking to stern area.



Thanks for the likes.

Regards Antony.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Everyone.

A update on the Mayflower and A jig for cutting deck beams ETC.


Installing the Brest hooks.



Gunports are now lined.



And the planking is almost up to the main Deck.



Planking sanded with P80 to start with. Will finish with p120 then seal the inside.



The grey timber clamped onto the keel is the Marker for the Bilge Deck. The Marks are the approximant Deck beams positions.




I have made a Jig for cutting my deck beams which I will post a few photos and a sketch.

Pivot point arm This is fixed to underside of bandsaw table.



Support arm now in place with timber clamped in place.

Start of First Cut



First cut done and Trim discarded.



You can have a set of Holes in the pivot support arm .

or you can release the clamps and move the timber forward the amount plus the blade kerf. My preferred method.

Ready for second Cut.



The Cut beam ready for sanding.


The pivot point should be level or just forward of the Bandsaw blade.

Its a easy Jig to make and you can very the radius by making the pivot point further away or closer to the bandsaw blade.

Bandsaw Radius.pdf



Regards Antony. 


Edited by AntonyUK
Added Drawing
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  • 3 weeks later...


Sorry for the delay in posting... Lots of work done on the model and Starting to decorate the lounge.

Internal planking completed now and model released from jig for first time.


Gunports need trimming down and I shall leave like this until lower deck is in place. Then reinforce the deck beams by adding filler between the beams and the ribs.

View of the completed planking. Lines drawn on for treenails.



Square holes are for deck beams.



Deck beams now in place but not glued yet.


Notches for carlings are machined in. Will be using 4mm sq dark walnut for these.




Jig to hold deck beams at correct height and distance made and fitted to support.




Carlings and ledgers all cut but not glued yet.


Deck  construction well under way. Deck is Alaskan cedar. First time I have used this wood. Very impressed with the quality and grain.


Last planks on this deck are fixed and will need treenailing and sanding.


First deck




I like this shot...


A bit of tidying up and I will be happy.




Will start treenailing tomorrow and post a update more often.  


Regards Antony.





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