HMS Winchelsea by scrubbyj427 - 1:48

[scrubbyj427]

Thanks Ben, that’s kind of what I’m thinking as well. I will have to order some additional stern planks as redo this area.

JJ

[Rustyj]

Also here's a picture from Chuck's log that shows a great view of the curve Ben mentioned and the positioning of the wales at the counter.

 

Hope this helps!  

 

[scrubbyj427]

Thanks Rusty, I really dropped the ball on this one. I’m going to  redo the counter planking and start over. Your counter is actually where I spotted my error, I need to throw away anything I have under 200 grit at this point as I only get myself in trouble with it.

JJ

[jfhealey]

I'm intruiged by your work place. Surely you are not making saw dust in that environment!

 

I'm delighted to see someone using filler to get all the contours correct. I wasn't brave enough to admit that's my plan.

 

Good luck with the transom.

Fred

[scrubbyj427]

Hi Fred,

I work as an engineer on a private motor yacht so I’m building in the engine room, I have a vac always running when I’m cutting or sanding to keep the dust down.

 

Im just not as good as other folks on here at planking so I want to take necessary precautions, I’m also cutting my planks a bit thicker to allow a bit more sanding than average.

JJ

[scrubbyj427]

Alright guys, back on track. redid  the counter planking and finished the first layer of whales. Happy with the results so far, crisis averted. A few fairing issues to sort in the back but that shouldn’t be a problem.

Thanks Rusty for your assistance with the counter and Chuck for supplying me with another set of planks.

I will start sawing some more wood next week and begin moving forward with the upper planking.

JJ

 

[scrubbyj427]

Ok back at the whales, I’ve encountered a slight issue which I believe has to do with the sharp radius at the stern and the distance that second run of planks has to cover as opposed to the first. This is giving me this slight gap at the top.

Did anyone else encounter this or account for it from the start? I think I’m going to tap into my 5/16” stock and cut some slightly wider planks for the top and sand to fit flush with the first layer.

Also if anyone is interested I designed a cutting fence, the exact thickness of the saw blade, for my Byrnes saw that prevents the wood, on both sides of the blade from bumping or accidentally slipping into the blade and scaring up your billet. So far the prototype is working well and keeping the planks clean. I plan to produce the final one in aluminum and fasten it on with screws.

JJ

[jimvanlan99]

JJ,

I did not have the problem you are encountering with the Wales not aligning at the top.  HOWEVER, I have found that at the stem I do have a problem as I reach the bottom of the timber bollards.  On top of the top strake of Wales, the plans call for a 7/16" strake (called a black strake, although it is not painted black) and this, like the Wales, is double planked (according to Chuck, the top plank of the "black strake" is to be sanded down in thickness to under 2/64").  This thinning is to give a "step down" appearance I guess from the Wales to the single strakes that are above the "black strake."  Now comes my problem - I guess it is only mine since I have not seen it mentioned elsewhere.  Above the black strake are two planks, each of which is 1/4" wide and they are to flow smoothly under the timber bollards to the rabbit in the stem piece.  When I temporarily placed the black strake and two 1/4" wide planks above the Wales, I did not have room under the bottom of the timber bollards for the top 1/4" wide plank.  It looks to be like I am going to have to remove about 1/8" of the exterior timber bollards on both sides of the stem to allow the 1/4" planks to fit smoothly right up to the rabbit in the stem and under the timber bollards.  This came as a complete surprise to me and another disheartening mistake (evidently on my part).  So far, I have had more than my share of such disheartening mistakes with this model.

[Wacom]

You are not the only one to find this, had me stumped for a while as the measurements were ok.  In the end I removed the offending 1/8”🤓

[jimvanlan99]

Well, I guess this gives me some small comfort.  Now I just have to figure out now to remove the offending ends off the timber bollards without destroying or disfiguring them.  Unfortunately my

bollards are always secured/glued in place.  Thanks for letting me know that I am now alone in this.

Jim 

[Chuck]

Dont worry about the bollards.  Just cut the planking around it.  Remember...the bollard timbers will be painted black anyway....

 

Any of the bollard timber that may show will be unseen deep within the head timbers.  Just leave it as is.  With the planking...small gaps and or small changes in beveling will give you that tiny difference.  It is also not wort over thinking and worrying about.  If you want to cut down a wider piece so it fits and matches the bottom layer that would be fine.  

 

I do however think it is a mistake to add the second layer of wales now.  You should wait until the planking above and below the wales is completed first.  The whole reason for two layers is so you can micro-correct the run of the wales should you need to and this becomes more evident only after having the topsides planked.....and the drop plank in position.  In addition, there is a strong possibility that you will chip or dent and damage the edges of your wales while planking everything else.   Then you cant really fix that.   You can build in any order you like but if you are curious as to why I selected the order and why I use 2 layers.....those are the reasons.

 

Chuck

[scrubbyj427]

On 3/6/2020 at 6:30 AM, jimvanlan99 said:

JJ,

I did not have the problem you are encountering with the Wales not aligning at the top.  HOWEVER, I have found that at the stem I do have a problem as I reach the bottom of the timber bollards.  On top of the top strake of Wales, the plans call for a 7/16" strake (called a black strake, although it is not painted black) and this, like the Wales, is double planked (according to Chuck, the top plank of the "black strake" is to be sanded down in thickness to under 2/64").  This thinning is to give a "step down" appearance I guess from the Wales to the single strakes that are above the "black strake."  Now comes my problem - I guess it is only mine since I have not seen it mentioned elsewhere.  Above the black strake are two planks, each of which is 1/4" wide and they are to flow smoothly under the timber bollards to the rabbit in the stem piece.  When I temporarily placed the black strake and two 1/4" wide planks above the Wales, I did not have room under the bottom of the timber bollards for the top 1/4" wide plank.  It looks to be like I am going to have to remove about 1/8" of the exterior timber bollards on both sides of the stem to allow the 1/4" planks to fit smoothly right up to the rabbit in the stem and under the timber bollards.  This came as a complete surprise to me and another disheartening mistake (evidently on my part).  So far, I have had more than my share of such disheartening mistakes with this model.

Jim,

I just took a quick measurement with a temporary black strake plank in place and came .020” under actually so I will need to either carefully Gap my planks or gently roll them at the ends to make up the gap. I’m hoping to get to that point this weekend and see where I land with the bollard timbers. I’ll post my progress when I get there.

JJ

[scrubbyj427]

19 hours ago, Chuck said:

Dont worry about the bollards.  Just cut the planking around it.  Remember...the bollard timbers will be painted black anyway....

 

Any of the bollard timber that may show will be unseen deep within the head timbers.  Just leave it as is.  With the planking...small gaps and or small changes in beveling will give you that tiny difference.  It is also not wort over thinking and worrying about.  If you want to cut down a wider piece so it fits and matches the bottom layer that would be fine.  

 

I do however think it is a mistake to add the second layer of wales now.  You should wait until the planking above and below the wales is completed first.  The whole reason for two layers is so you can micro-correct the run of the wales should you need to and this becomes more evident only after having the topsides planked.....and the drop plank in position.  In addition, there is a strong possibility that you will chip or dent and damage the edges of your wales while planking everything else.   Then you cant really fix that.   You can build in any order you like but if you are curious as to why I selected the order and why I use 2 layers.....those are the reasons.

 

Chuck

Chuck,

thanks for the advice, I’m going to resume normal planking on the port side and add the Wales after the fact, in the meantime I need to decide if I want to remove the stbd side second layer or try to work with it, the error is marginal but still needs to be addressed.

JJ

[Chuck]

Just wait until later and if needed use wider planks for the 2nd layer of the wales.   

[scrubbyj427]

Chuck you weren’t joking about each plank being a project of its own, the first real plank that runs through the gun ports got the better part of my day with one do-over. Hoping to make much more progress tomorrow on the upper stbd side. I’ll sort out the Wales once finished, I don’t think it will set me back too far.

JJ

[Rustyj]

Yes JJ those planks are time consuming but it looks like your plank is spot on.

[scrubbyj427]

Thanks Rusty, it’s a lot of work but The results are more than worth it.

[scrubbyj427]

Been out to sea for a bit but still trying to get a plank or two on each night, moving along slow and steady. Hoping to move to the port side in the next week  or two.

JJ

[Chuck]

That looks like some good

progress.  Keep going....one plank at a time.

[scrubbyj427]

One side down, (above the Wales) just needs a bit more sanding and the Wales completed along with the black strake and I can move onto the other side. A few speed bumps along the way but nothing major, will see how chapter three goes together.

JJ

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

Starting on the port side tomorrow, got the black strake on, which proved to be a test of ones patience no doubt. Wales painted and I think I took care of my issue with the second layer of Wales having a gap. The drop plank is in position and required very little sanding on top to meet the Wales.
The cedar has proved to be an amazing material, On the aft end of the wales, I was able to sand a very sharp edge at the counter that I finished off with 800 grit prior to paint.

The black strake was cut below 1/32” at an average of .025”, it proved to be very difficult to manipulate (wouldn’t edge bend) and easily screwed up. But it got it to sit...with a few scars but it will be ok.

i need to get some WOP on there ASAP now but I was slightly concerned about how yellow it will be, so I did two samples both with CA smudges that were sanded off (just like my model) to see how the wood would take a light bit of color as well as WOP on the normal cedar and the CA tainted. I think I will just apply WOP to the bare cedar to avoid any light spots caused by the CA. But I’m curious what you guys think. The slightly tinted one (with WOP on top) is aft of the plain WOP one, both have CA smudges on the top two planks in the middle. For some reason the camera always makes it look worse! My photos are my own worst enemy!

JJ

[JeffT]

looks great!

[rlb]

Post #80, Photo 1 (though other photos show it also, this one struck me)--

There is indeed a human being in this cold, sterile place, building this beautiful thing.

Ron

 

[scrubbyj427]

Thanks for the likes and comments guys. Happy modeling .

JJ

[captainscott]

Very nice work, it sure looks good.

[scrubbyj427]

Almost ready to flip her over and start working the other direction I just need Add the black strake and open up the planking for the doorway and a few more details this week.

[Chuck]

Quite nice.  Take your time with the lowe planking.

[Rustyj]

Looking really nice! The fun has now begun!

[scrubbyj427]

Thanks guys! It’s turning out ok, definitely learning a lot.

JJ

[dvm27]

Very nice job so far! By the way are you building inside a nuclear facility or have you incorporated every This Old House innovation from the last decade into your basement?