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Posted

Hi everybody, 

after finishing the Queen Anne-barge, I am quite excited to join in the Winchelsea project.

Yesterday I got started, printing all the plans and cutting the first plywood peaces for the bulkheads. 

I use 6 mm birch plywood (the heavy one) and made the main part out of one Peace (not 3 peaces like the laser-cut Version)

Matthias

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Posted

Really nice start. You choose the same method I like to us for my own build. How did you made the notches? With the table saw?

Regards Christian

 

Current build: HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1/36

On the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776, Comet, 1783 and Aetna, 1776; Naval Cutter Alert, 1777

Paused: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1/48

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

Posted

Glad to see you start cutting wood. Those bulkheads are fun to cut out.

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

Posted

You need to watch warping when you do that on a model this size.   The reason you make three pieces is to help prevent twisting and warping of the false keel.  Yes it is good to get it done in one piece, but it tends to want to warp and twist because of the slots cut into it on such a long single piece.  So you must be very careful.

 

Chuck

Posted

A re-enforcing comment. My Essex kit is about 28 inches long and has a two part false keel. For a demo I assembled it using an Ed Tosti like gantry jig for this specific purpose. The keel members were flat to begin with. After assembling 20 of the bulkheads one could notice a slight twist to the false keel. This could only be trued by inserting the stiffeners (3/8 X 1/4 beams on each side of the keel) into the precut notches of  19 of the 22 bulkheads. Even multi layer Baltic Birch ply will warp slightly just sitting on a flat surface in my low humidity shop accumulating moisture unevenly (on the top side vs the bottom).

 

Having built a few houses in my time if you do not get the foundation true you will constantly be correcting, and living with the results, all they way to the roof top.

Joe

Posted

It wont matter if you remember to use many brackets on your build board.  It will straighten any twist and warp.  I used three but you can use 4 or 5 if you want.  These are super easy to make.  You just need to make little triangles (right angles) with a base.   These are a bit fancier but they dont need to be.  They should be screwed into the baseboard so you can remove them when planking the lower hull.  I hesitate to sell these because they are so easy to make on your own.   In fact I removed them from the installment for chapter one because some folks complained they could make them on their own and didnt need to pay extra for them.   I havent laser cut any more of them but if some of you need these I could cut more of them and sell them as a separate item.  They can be reused on any project.  You can line the inside with tape or even felt so they wont damage your keel.   They work a treat.

 

Just note that the first ten 1st installments have three of these.  So you guys got a bonus!!!!  Screws and washers not included.    

 

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buildboardbrackets.jpg

Posted

I wasnt planning on it but if folks want them rather than making something similar I will do so.   But you will have to get your own screws and washers.  Remember the first ten sets has three pairs of these included.   I will use basswood.   Maybe I will cut some early next week.

 

I tried to accommodate the "cheap" guys trying to save $12.   Its hard trying to accommodate everyone.

Posted
40 minutes ago, Beckmann said:

 

They look really fancy. If I would buy them, my daughters would take them away anyway for bookstands on their  shelfs, so I better make some simple ones myself :)

Posted

I hear ya...I don’t mind paying for some convenience, I have a very small work space/storage. Every little bit you provide helps me continue my hobby. Bringing a saw aboard to mill planks will be a big move!

JJ

Current Builds: HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 - 5th rate 32 gun frigate (on hold for now)

 

                         HMS Portland 1770 Prototype 1:48 - 4th rate 50 gun ship

 

Posted

Almost forgot.....watch the bottoms of those first few bulkheads at the bow.   They may damage your keel and stem because they arent faired yet.  When you install them you will see that they extend below the rabbet strip on their forward edge.   You might want to pre bevel them and angle them ahead of time to avoid that.   Place one in a slot and you will see what I mean.  Very hard to explain in writing.   Most kits always have bulkheads that are too short at the bow.  When properly shaped you should angle them at the bottom to avoid damaging that keel.

Posted

Great idea! They will still be discernible after fairing and sanding in the areas. Your numerals remind me of my father in law, he was a German from Hamburg and emigrated back in the 60’s - that little “tail” on the number 1 is distinctly German, as well as precise and meticulous work, we built a few airplanes together- Lancair IV-P’s. 

Posted

Just a little more as it gets lower.  Down by the bobstay holes.  The top of the stem is fine.   Check out the cont. model.  Nice tight joints on those stem pieces by the way!!!!!

 

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Posted

Nicely done.....make sure those brackets will fit between bulkheads.  They look a little wide.  But otherwise everything is shaping up!!!

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