HM Cutter Alert by VTHokiEE - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[VTHokiEE]

11 hours ago, Greg M said:

I went and ordered her yesterday

Thanks Greg! It really is an enjoyable build and I'm certain that you'll have a fun time with it. I look forward to seeing what you do with your build!

[glbarlow]

All the cannon on my models are up against the bulwarks. I’d think they stowed them this way to prevent them sliding around on the deck.  
 

Everything looks great, an excellent model that shows the time you’re putting into it. 

[VTHokiEE]

3 hours ago, glbarlow said:

All the cannon on my models are up against the bulwarks.

Thanks Glenn! This is what I ended up going with. I’m still slowly churning out side tackles.

 

I ran into some extreme frustration all because some CA glue was starting to set in the bottle and I didn’t notice.

 

I had my 0.008” thread and my 3/32” blocks from Syren and I couldn’t get the thread through the blocks holes (which are spec’d for one size of thread larger than what I was using). In order to create a rope needle I used some CA glue on the rope (standard practice).

 

I quickly realized that in glueing the knots together I had sealed some holes on the block so I drilled out each hole but still no dice.

 

I began to get really annoyed because I knew that the rope and blocks should work but what was I doing wrong. After struggling through a few side tackles it finally dawned on me that my CA was now really thick and gooey instead of runny (like it was when I opened the bottle whenever ago). I opened my second bottle, made my rope needle and BOOM - back in business.

 

I tossed the bad bottle (it must have started to set) and am still a little annoyed that I didn’t notice this sooner, but now I’m moving a bit faster and not dreading the remaining rigging 😂.

[glbarlow]

22 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

couldn’t get the thread through the blocks holes

As well made as Syren blocks or any blocks might be I always push an appropriate size drill bit through the block in advance of the rope to clear our any debris and/or to ensure a smooth opening for the rope - plus doing what you are by rubbing a bit of CA on the end of the rope to effectively create a needle, of course that CA has to dry and it takes very little to make it stiff enough to push through.

 

Yes, CA does go bad after a while. I use the applicators I think I've shared before - at some point I realize the CA is getting a bit gel like and just toss the applicator and fill up a new one. I use watered down white glue on all the knots, though I do use a tiny bit of CA on rope as well in some situations. All this to say, welcome to the club we all experience the same sort of things.

[usedtosail]

I stopped buying large bottles of CA for that very reason. Now I buy many small bottles and store the unopened ones in the fridge.

[glbarlow]

I should clarify - by keeping the bottle tightly closed and using it only to fill up my applicators my  CA brand lasts years sitting in the cabinet. It's what is in the applicator, which isn't much, that will go bad after a few weeks.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD1QQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LRT7TO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I do make it a point to store the applicator standing upright in a little holder and clear the tip after each days use.

[VTHokiEE]

Drum roll please...

 

I have all my cannon rigged and on deck! It feels like a major accomplishment, but now I almost feel lost about what to do next (time to dust off the manual I suppose). My personal observations are that I made the breeching lines a little longer than I should have and eventually I will need to glue at least some of the cannons to the quoins (I feel like I am running a high risk of knocking them loose if I do it now), but overall I'm very satisfied with how the effort came out. I didn't even loose a single tiny block (which is a good thing because I only had two spares and Chuck has been out of them since I placed an order almost immediately after he reopened).

 

 

[dkuehn]

Beautiful work!

[Edwardkenway]

Nice,very nice!! Well worth the time and effort Tim, outstanding!!😉

[DelF]

Excellent result Tim - well-rigged guns really add a huge amount to the visual impact. Well done!

 

Derek

[VTHokiEE]

Thank you all for the comments and likes, they are all appreciated and encouraging!

[Greg M]

Looking awesome and very inspirational.  You're doing an amazing job.

 

As an aside, the manual for the Alert has to be the nicest one I've ever seen, although I got a kick where it said it's a 30-50 hour build.  Guessing conservatively rigging the cannon is at least ten hours.   

[VTHokiEE]

9 hours ago, Greg M said:

I got a kick where it said it's a 30-50 hour build.  Guessing conservatively rigging the cannon is at least ten hours.   

Ha, yes I think I blew past the low end of that estimate during planking 😂. To be fair though, the manual skips rigging the cannons (I would recommend at least doing the breeching line though). 
 

I do like the manual. My one minor critique is that I wish the included photos aligned with the build stages of where they are in the manual. Overall though it’s a great manual and a great kit!

 

[Old Collingwood]

That looks Brilliant Tim  - really impressive.

 

OC.

[VTHokiEE]

On 9/27/2020 at 11:42 AM, Old Collingwood said:

That looks Brilliant Tim  - really impressive.

Thanks OC! I appreciate all the likes and comments.

 

Added the back stays, chainplates, deadeyes, and a few cleats. The back stays gave me a small struggle - I wanted to attach the upper pin into the molding which worked fine on one side, but I split the molding twice on the other side and gave up. Also the pins had to be shortened significantly so they wouldnt go through, but this made it a little tricky to get everything glued in place. Next up, I think the swivel guns. I'm have a little trouble getting the bowsprit so that it fits on the back end (I'll get there and I have plenty of wood, but I'm not mounting that iron ring on it until I get the bowsprit in place, I can't for the life on me see how I would get the bowspirt in there afterwards).

 

   

[VTHokiEE]

Swivel guns ready for action. There is a little pin that extends into the pillar that holds them in place but I haven't glued them down. I enjoy that they can rotate; but I'm going to kick myself if I lose one later so I'm torn between leaving them as is or gluing them in place; any thoughts?

 

[Greg M]

That looks really nice.  I may have missed it in an earlier post, but what paint colors did you use?  The blue, red and yellow are all nice and vibrant.

 

If your backhand is anything like mine, then avoid glueing them down now.  If they are in tight enough that it would be difficult to remove them, then I would leave them as is.  I would whack them 10 or 20 times while rigging and have to adjust them anyway.  If they are loose enough to remove, I would take them off until after rigging and then glue them down as the last step otherwise I'd end up knocking one or more off.

[VTHokiEE]

10 hours ago, Greg M said:

That looks really nice.  I may have missed it in an earlier post, but what paint colors did you use?  

Thank you! I used Humbrol #25 Blue, Humbrol #24 Trainer Yellow, Humbrol #60 Scarlet. The manual also specified a Humbrol Satin Black (#85) which I used (with the intent that a matte clear spray would be used) but I think I would try a matte black next time.

 

10 hours ago, Greg M said:

If your backhand is anything like mine, then avoid glueing them down now.

Ha! Mine might be worse I'm surprised that I haven't broken anything yet. I think it is quite smart to pull them off for now (they are loose enough to spin) but I wonder if I really need to glue them down later. Of course if the model is in a case no one is going to be able to move them so I think I'm talking myself into gluing them down at the end.

[Gregory]

If you decide to glue them, just some white glue in the hole should keep them in place, but allow for easy removal if you need to later..

 

Meanwhile your cutter is really looking great!

[VTHokiEE]

On 10/8/2020 at 9:16 AM, Gregory said:

Meanwhile your cutter is really looking great!

Thank you!

 

I've been a little remiss in showing any how-to in this build (mainly because I felt that some of the other referenced builds detailed great how-to and I didn't think it necessary to restate what they wrote). However, I've started rigging some blocks and thought that I would detail my process here in case it helps someone in the future.

 

First, I seize the rope to an eye-bolt. For these 3mm blocks I am currently using 0.018 rope from Syren.  (I have realized that I'm almost all out. I did buy a rope rocket, but I haven't tackled that project yet.)

 

Next I secure the rope around the block in tweezers.

Now I thread a needle onto one side of the rope and pierce it between the strands of the other rope as close as I can to the corner of the block and pull it through.

I then switch the needle to the other rope and do the same procedure in the opposite direction and pull the lines tight to the block.

Now I smear white glue on the rope and let it dry.

Finally trim the line and there is your block.

I imagine there are many other ways (and probably better ways) but so far I'm pretty happy with this method and hopefully it helps.

 

[Old Collingwood]

Those swivals   really came out nice  - add another level of  busyness to her.

 

OC.

[DelF]

Neat work Tim.

 

22 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

EDIT: I don't know why the below photo is there; 

If you upload a photo but don't use it in your post, it will appear at the end of your text. When you edit the post you have to delete it from the images area otherwise it will just keep popping up again.

 

Derek

[VTHokiEE]

22 minutes ago, DelF said:

If you upload a photo but don't use it in your post, it will appear at the end of your text.

Thanks for the tip Derek. Unless I’m going crazy (a distinct possibility) I did use that picture two higher (underneath the smear glue text). At least I see that I used it.

 

Either way, I’m pretending it’s not really there or else I’ll continue editing the post until I delete the thing and start over 😂.

[glbarlow]

Very sharp looking deck, very crisp work.

 

I don’t see any reason to leave the swivel guns free. You won’t move them once the model is complete and on the shelf.  I don’t even install them on the mounts until almost done with the final rigging, they get in the way and become great at snagging lines. It’s usually one of my last steps. 

 

[VTHokiEE]

12 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I don’t even install them on the mounts until almost done with the final rigging

I came to the same conclusion, thanks for the confirmation; right now they are off ship and in my parts box for protection until I get towards the end of the build. 

[VTHokiEE]

16 hours ago, DelF said:

If you upload a photo but don't use it in your post, it will appear at the end of your text. When you edit the post you have to delete it from the images area otherwise it will just keep popping up again.

Of course you were right; I had uploaded the image twice - silly me 😳. Fixed now.

[Gazzarian]

Your build is looking great and I appreciate this log, it's helpful with my own attempts at this model, where I am some way behind you, so thank you!

[VTHokiEE]

2 hours ago, Gazzarian said:

Your build is looking great and I appreciate this log, it's helpful with my own attempts at this model, where I am some way behind you, so thank you!

Thank you! I'm following your log as well - it sounds like you have a very interesting vision and I'm excited to see it all come together.

[VTHokiEE]

I'm kicking myself this morning. I was working on the anchors - I had puddening (I'm not certain if there is a best method here just trying to duplicate what I have seen others do) on the ring but I was having a few issues adding the seizing. In the process I realized that I needed to solder the brass ring I made together (I originally thought that I could avoid this and simply keep the ends together but I bent them apart adding the seizing and the puddening started coming off). You can probably see where this is going, but in the process of soldering the ring I accidentally burned the stock  - I tried scrapping the char off but that was unsuccessful. I think I'm going to try to scratch build the stocks (hopefully the drawings in the AotS Alert) will help me here, wish me luck.

[Gazzarian]

Oh well, if it's any consolation I burnt my finger ironing on the second planking.....