HMS Sphinx 1775 by Glenn-UK - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[chris watton]

19 minutes ago, BobG said:

Nice work on the fairing, Glenn.

 

Fairing is one task that I'm never 100% confident about doing. I never seem to know exactly if I'm taking off too much or too little even when checking with a batten. For example, I did it as carefully as I knew how on my Medway Longboat and still ended up with a slight bulge and dip near the port bow once I started planking. Getting both sides faired exactly symmetrical is not easy for me either. I was able to sand it out but it made the planking pretty thin at that point. That's just me though, I'm sure more experienced modelers do just fine. 

My preferred method is to use a 6 or 7" length of 1.5-2" 0.8mm ply with the abrasive paper wrapped around it, and then, in very technical terms, sand the crap out of the hull until the edges are no longer black. Works every time for me!

[Glenn-UK]

8 minutes ago, chris watton said:

My preferred method is to use a 6 or 7" length of 1.5-2" 0.8mm ply with the abrasive paper wrapped around it, and then, in very technical terms, sand the crap out of the hull until the edges are no longer black. Works every time for me!

I used a very similar method sanding the crap out of the hull using my  Amati sanding block (40mm wide) fitted with 100-grit sandpaper for the majority of the fairing. I think this is a great tool. When there was a bit more extra material to remove I used my mini power sander and / or a course grained Florey sanding stick before reverting the Amati sanding block to complete the task.

Edited September 6, 2021 by glennard2523

[glbarlow]

The Soft-Sanders are a game changer - worth the small cost - though I'm not sure if they ship across the pond.

Soft Sanders

 

They are also available on Amazon

 

[BobG]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

The Soft-Sanders are a game changer - worth the small cost

 

I like those very much as well.

 

1 hour ago, chris watton said:

My preferred method is to use a 6 or 7" length of 1.5-2" 0.8mm ply with the abrasive paper wrapped around it, and then, in very technical terms, sand the crap out of the hull until the edges are no longer black. Works every time for me!

 

Maybe I'm just too cautious! I'll have to give that a try being more aggressive!!

 

I noticed that you included etched lines on the bulkheads on the Lady Isabella Zulu model to help guide the fairing process. That seems like it will be helpful. 

Edited September 6, 2021 by BobG

[Jasseji]

1 hour ago, chris watton said:

My preferred method is to use a 6 or 7" length of 1.5-2" 0.8mm ply with the abrasive paper wrapped around it, and then, in very technical terms, sand the crap out of the hull until the edges are no longer black. Works every time for me!

So with the 0.8mm ply you basically create a flexible sanding Block? 

[Jasseji]

53 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

The Soft-Sanders are a game changer - worth the small cost - though I'm not sure if they ship across the pond.

Soft Sanders

 

They are also available on Amazon

 

Would itbe the se as using a sanding sponge? I saw them over here 

[Glenn-UK]

3 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

Would itbe the se as using a sanding sponge? I saw them over here 

I like using Florey standing sticks. I have never used or seen a sanding sponge 

[mtaylor]

Good work, Glenn.   I broke 2 of those tabs so far but managed to glue them back in place.   Since they're opposite each other I probably shouldn't have worried.

 

 

6 hours ago, chris watton said:

And again, do not worry about breaking a few of the upper tabs, this is almost inevitable - as long as you still have couple left by the time you add the outer skins, that is fine. Even if all of them broken off, you probably still would be fine..

 

That's reassuring, Chris.  I was sweating it.  

[mtaylor]

Still playing catch up with everyone else....  another good source for sanding "sticks" is those bendy nail files that are disposable.  Assorted grits and they do work well and flex.

[KirbysLunchBox]

This is really impressive to see come together. I had been tempted to buy a Vanguard kit before this one. I really want to buy this for my second build now, but I still can’t believe it will take 400+ hours to complete.  One ship at a time… say it with me …. One ship at a time!  

[Malcolm Greig]

Just catching up. Fantastic Glenn. Huge effort documenting your build for us. Very very helpful.

 

regards

 

Malcolm

[DaveBaxt]

22 hours ago, glbarlow said:

The Soft-Sanders are a game changer - worth the small cost - though I'm not sure if they ship across the pond.

Soft Sanders

 

They are also available on Amazon

 

What are these about I can see the different shapes but wonder if they are rigid or flexable . Do you attach the sand paper to them or are they already abrasive? Why do they call them soft sanders? Sorry for the dumb questions. Best regards Dave

[Gregory]

You have to add the paper..  I don't know if they have this in the UK, but it is my go to sanding for all uses..

 

Dura Gold Adhesive backing that is  really good, but not too hard to remove..  Many different grits

 

The sanders themselves are not real soft.  They are a firm foam, but not spongy..

Edited September 7, 2021 by Gregory

[glbarlow]

They are stiff foam, so soft. A little pressure melds it with the wood, within reason given the shape.  The same company sells various grades of adhesive sandpaper. So you attach the grit of your choice to the shape of choice by removing the making on the sandpaper. It can be removed and changed out once or twice before the adhesive gives out. The sandpaper  will stay attached indefinitely to the foam shape if you don’t pull it off. 

[Glenn-UK]

HULL ASSEMBLY

ADDING THE UPPER HULL SIDE PATTERNS

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 134 -137

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

Clamps

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

136, 138

 

Assembly Process

The hull side patterns were removed from the hull, after being left clamped to the hull for approx. 18 hours to fully dry out. I was concerned with a little bit of bulging of the patterns near the stern area. On closer examination I found the problem was due to an alignment issue with a couple of the repaired bulkhead ears, which had broken off during the fairing process. I decided to remove two of the damaged ears and this solved the bulging problem.

 

Starting with the right-hand pattern I applied a diluted glue solution to the hull frame. I then carefully aligned the pattern with the first couple of gun port openings and added a clamp. More clamps were added as I continued to align the pattern moving toward to the stern. Finally, I applied clamps to the bow area and the hull was put aside to allow time for the glue to cure.

 .

I used all my clamps

 

Close up of the bow clamping

 

Clamping the stern area

 

 

I repeated the process for the left-hand pattern.

 

Death by clamping😂

 

After the glue had had time to cure the clamps were removed and I stood back to admire my work as instructed in step 130 of the build manual 😀

 

 

 

 

There is a slight misalignment at the bow. I will use some water to release the front edge and realign as necessary.

 

Edited September 7, 2021 by glennard2523

[BobG]

4 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

 

There is a slight misalignment at the bow. I don't think this will be seen but I might sand  the top edge to make it level.

I think that will be important to do so your planking matches up nicely at the bow also.

[Glenn-UK]

2 minutes ago, BobG said:

I think that will be important to do so your planking matches up nicely at the bow also.

@BobG I had already edited my post. I will release the bow section (using water) and realign.

[James H]

Fixing that bow should be pretty easy. 

 

Super nice work so far, and I did think that stage was important to stand back and admire 😝

[Jasseji]

9 hours ago, glennard2523 said:

 

😂fter the glue had had time to cure the clamps were removed and I stood back to admire my work as instructed in step 130 of the build manual 

😀

 

Yes, those are the most important steps (i bookmarked them in the PDF) 

 

I like how much "fun stuff" you can do on this model before getting to the "chore stuff" (Planking) 

[DaveBaxt]

12 hours ago, Gregory said:

You have to add the paper..  I don't know if they have this in the UK, but it is my go to sanding for all uses..

 

Dura Gold Adhesive backing that is  really good, but not too hard to remove..  Many different grits

 

The sanders themselves are not real soft.  They are a firm foam, but not spongy..

Got you and thanks for the explanation.. Not seen them over here but will take a closer look for them. 

[Glenn-UK]

GUN DECK ASSEMBLY

ASSEMBLY COAMINGS AND LADDERS

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 350 - 370

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Flory sanding sticks

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

Clamps

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

116-131 & 353-365

 

Assembly Process - Coamings

Using a sanding stick I removed the laser char from all the visible edges, taking great care as some aspects are very fragile. Glue was then applied to the upper parts and then they placed on their respective lower parts. Clamps were used to ensure the parts were held firm as the glue cured.

 

The grating covers were dry fitted and the completed coamings were put to one side as they will be added to the gun deck later in the build process.

 

Completed coamings

 

Assembly Process - Ladders

Each ladder comprised several items, as follows:

Side inner rails

Side outer patterns

Steps

 

Aft Gun parts

 

Aft Gun Deck Ladder Assembly
I started the assembly process by gluing 3 steps to one of the inner side rails, one step in the top slot, one step in the middle slot and one step in the bottom slot. The assembly was then left for approx. 10 minute to allow time for the glue to grab before the other inner side rail was added. It was then a simple process to fit the remaining steps. I then brushed some diluted glue on the outside edge to ensure the steps were fully glued in place.

 

Aft ladder ready for outer side patterns to be added

 

Once the glue had cured the outside edge of the ladders were sanded smooth before the outer side patterns were glued in place.

 

Completed Aft Gun Deck Ladder

 

The assembly process was then repeated for the other 4 ladders. The completed ladder assemblies were put to one side and will be added to the gun deck later in the build process.

 

All completed ladders

[Glenn-UK]

I am pleased to report I have managed to release the misaligned left-hand upper hull side pattern with application of water and a very sharp blade. I have clamped the pattern in place but I will need to allow time for the structure to fully dry out before I apply a fresh coat of glue.

 

So I will move on to building more gun deck fixtures and fittings in the meantime.

[Glenn-UK]

GUN DECK ASSEMBLY

CHAIN PUMP ASSEMBLY

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 381 - 383

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Flory sanding stick

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

199 (x4), 476 (x2)

 

Replicating James's build manual photo

 

Assembly Process

Not the most difficult task. I removed the laser char from the visible edges. Next I applied a thin coat of glue to the back of each chain pump outer patterns and then added them to the chain pump main patterns.

 

The completed Chain Pumps

 

The competed assemblies were then dry fitted to the gun deck to ensure they would locate in the slots. They were then removed as they will be glued in place later in the build process. I also need to apply a varnish.

 

[Glenn-UK]

GUN DECK ASSEMBLY

SHIP’S STOVE ASSEMBLY - PART 1

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 409 – 419 & 433 - 434

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Flory sanding stick

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

204, 205 (x2), 206, 207, 208 (x2), 210, 211, 212 (x2), 1mm brass rod

 

Assembly Process

The various parts were dry fitted to ensure everything fitted. With no problems detected I followed the build instructions 410 to 419.

 

It is important to note that the one edge of part 212 (x2) required a bevel before they are glued in place.

 

 

I will add the PE parts later on in the build process, but I did a test fit of the assembly to ship stoves floor pattern.

 

 

When looking at the remaining build stages I noted it was necessary to use a 1mm drill to open the half-hidden holes so a length of 1mm brass rod can be added.

 

[Glenn-UK]

GUN DECK ASSEMBLY

LOWER CAPSTAN ASSEMBLY

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 463 - 469

 

UPPER CAPSTAN ASSEMBLY

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 624 - 628

 

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Flory sanding stick

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

250 (x2), 251, 252, 253, 254, 437 (x2), 60mm x 6mm dowel

 

60mm x 6mm dowel

 

Capstan parts ready for assembly

 

Assembly Process - Lower Capstan

The 5 x capstan whelps were glued to the two capstan chocks. I then added the capstan lower drum head to the assembly and place the 6mm dowel through the central hole.

 

The lower capstan is starting to take shape

 

With the dowel in place the remaining items were glued to the capstan assembly and the dowel was then removed.

 

The completed capstan assembly

 

Picture of the capstan positioned on the gun deck

 

Assembly Process – Upper Capstan

The above process was repeated for the upper capstan assembly,

 

 

The completed capstan's

 

 

Both assemblies will be painting red later in the build process.

[Jasseji]

21 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

GUN DECK ASSEMBLY

SHIP’S STOVE ASSEMBLY - PART 1

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 409 – 419 & 433 - 434

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Flory sanding stick

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

204, 205 (x2), 206, 207, 208 (x2), 210, 211, 212 (x2), 1mm brass rod

 

Assembly Process

The various parts were dry fitted to ensure everything fitted. With no problems detected I followed the build instructions 410 to 419.

 

It is important to note that the one edge of part 212 (x2) required a bevel before they are glued in place.

 

 

I will add the PE parts later on in the build process, but I did a test fit of the assembly to ship stoves floor pattern.

 

 

When looking at the remaining build stages I noted it was necessary to use a 1mm drill to open the half-hidden holes so a length of 1mm brass rod can be added.

 

 

 

I think you missed an important step in the Manual

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The one which says "Slow down, Step Back"...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brilliant progress

[Glenn-UK]

7 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

I think you missed an important step in the Manual

The one which says "Slow down, Step Back"...

 

Time on my hands today while I was waiting for the realigned upper hull pattern to dry out so I thought I would make some simple assemblies.

[Jasseji]

23 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

Time on my hands today while I was waiting for the realigned upper hull pattern to dry out so I thought I would make some simple assemblies.

shush, you make James jealous

 

I try to catch up, sick leave until end of the week

[Malcolm Greig]

This is a stunningly good build log. Thankyou Glenn.

 

regards

 

Malcolm

[Glenn-UK]

3 minutes ago, Malcolm Greig said:

This is a stunningly good build log. Thankyou Glenn.

 

regards

 

Malcolm

Thanks Malcolm