HMS Sphinx 1775 by Glenn-UK - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[glbarlow]

Where they are wasn’t my question, it seemed from the photo they were sitting not on the hull but on two strips of molding, which doesn’t seem to be very secure. Perhaps they are cut with groove beneath for the molding and attached the hull and I just didn’t see it from the photo. 
 

No big deal, just a question. 

[Glenn-UK]

7 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Where they are wasn’t my question, it seemed from the photo they were sitting not on the hull but on two strips of molding, which doesn’t seem to be very secure. Perhaps they are cut with groove beneath for the molding and attached the hull and I just didn’t see it from the photo. 
 

No big deal, just a question. 

There are vertical rails between the hortizontal mouldings which provide a full contact area and also lets the builder know where they are to be positioned

[Blue Ensign]

The channels are not there to support the shrouds, simply to spread the angle for better support of the masts.

The deadeyes are secured by the preventer plates and chains and sit in slots along the outer edge of the channels, usually covered by a board.

The channels are not subject to the upward stresses one might think.

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

HULL WORK

BOW GRATINGS

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 276 - 300

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Titebond

Sanding sticks and files

Clamps

Black paint

 

Gathering the materials required

42, 43, 44, 81 (x2), 79, 80, 82 (x2), 83 (x2),160, 161, 171, 172, 173, 174, 291, 292, 384 (x2), 432 (x4), 449, 450 (x2),

 

Assembly Process

I am so glad this is a prototype build as I can do this section so much better next time around.

 

The various parts were located on the different sheets and removed.

 

 

A trial fit of the three off bow v-patterns with the gammoning knee on the stem post seemed to indicate everything was a reasonable fit.

 

 

 

Using a file the slots on the v-patterns were bevelled, aiming for a 45 degree angle as per the build manual recommendation. The v-patterns were then glued in place. The contact area of the v-patterns, where the lower bow grating is located, were also slightly bevelled.

 

 

The assembly was then dry fitted to the stem post so the lower bow grating pattern could be positioned and glued in place. I did use so clamps to hold the grating in place. The assembly was once again removed. To fill in time as the glue cures I started work on building the remaining 19 cannons. As can be seen in the photo below I have started to build 3 cannons, with the first one there for reference.

 

 

As I was bevelling the joint edge of the upper bow grating the pattern split but thankfully it will not be that noticeable. I also bevelled the contact edge of the v-pattern before the grating was glued in place.

 

 

The excess v-pattern edges were sanded, and the lower edges were also shaped as per the requirements stated in the build manual. The complete bow grating assembly was then glued in place.

 

 

 

The three completed cannons, they are very shiny as then have just been brushed with varnish so are still very wet.

 

 

Next the bow hair brackets and bow lower rails were glued to the stem post followed by the bow cheeks and hawse bolsters. The cheeks and bolsters required very little bevelling to ensure a good fit the hull. The hawser holes were then enlarged to 4mm, I think this would have been better done earlier on in the build process due to the bow grating. The hawser bolster position was checked. I used a round file to slightly enlarge the parts the sits under the hawser holes. I also sanded the bottom edge. Once I was happy with the fit the part was glued in place.

 

The two wash cants were shaped to produce a nice bevel and glued in place. The hawser area was then painted black, and the paint is still very wet in the photo below

 

 

Bow lower rails were test fitted. I found it necessary to trim a little bit for a good fit.

 

 

The bow grating area was completed with the addition of the V-shaped head rail patterns

 

 

All I need to do now is paint the blue section of the stem post, as indicated in the build manual.

 

[Glenn-UK]

I have started work on adding the windows to the quarter galleries and stern fascia. This will take me a few days to complete the build steps 301 to 319 so I thought I would provide a brief description of the start, working on left-hand quarter gallery.

 

The 3 off laser cut clear windows did need filing before they would fit. Once I was happy with the fit I used acrylic varnish to secure the window panes in the frames. The vertical columns were cleaned in acetone and soapy water and then painted gold. I used super phatic glue to secure them to the quarter gallery. I decided to add these before the white window frames as I was waiting for the white paint to dry. This turned out to be a mistake as I ended up with two misaligned vertical columns.

 

 

The external window frames were primed and then painted white.

 

 

Once again I used the acrylic varnish to secure the frames  to the quarter galleries. As can be seen in the photo below the two vertical columns at either end are both slightly misaligned in both the vertical and horizontal planes. I could reposition them, but as this is now a prototype build I might just leave them as fitted.

 

The stern fascia panel has been painted red and blue are are now ready for the various clear window panes, window frames and decorations to be installed.

 

I have been painting some of the PE parts gold so they are ready to be installed after the window panes have been fitted. The external window frames have not been painted white which will be my next task.

 

 

As I was waiting between some of paint drying time I have continued to build more cannons, which will make 10 built in total. In the photo below I have taped the side pieces so the cannon caps can be painted black. I'm also using tape to keep the side pieces upright during this painting process.

 

[Glenn-UK]

All windows, frames and vertical columns have now been fitted to the quarter galleries and stern fascia. I have also fitted the first stern fascia rail.

 

I used acrylic varnish to secure the clear window panes and the white window frame to the hull assembly. I then used super phatic glue for the vertical columns and rail. I used a few clamps and tape to hold the rail in place as the glue cured due to the slight curve of the stern fascia. The stern fascia vertical column assembly did not require any clamps as the super phatic glue grabbed and held the part in place afterjust a few seconds.

 

This is a picture of the right-hand quarter gallery. I added the vertical columns after the window frames, as per the build instructions which was much better than the method I used on the left hand side where I fitted the vertical columns before the window frames. The excess whie paint on the left hand window frame will be cleaned up.

 

This is a picture of the current state of play with the stern fascia, with clamps and tape holding the first rail in place. There will be a bit of work touching up the paint and using filler to compensate for the misalignment issued reported some time ago on the stern counter patterns. 

 

The first 10 cannons have been built so I thought I would take a picture with them positioned on the deck, and the all seem to sit perfectly in their respective gun ports. The remaining parts for the other 10 cannons have all been painted so when I have a spare couple of hours they will be built.

 

Work will continue over the next few days with adding more detail to the quarter galleries and stern fascia.

[glbarlow]

I don’t mean to be at all negative just something to consider. As you’re in the vanguard of Sphinx builders and want Chris’ model to show well, and given your intent to build another one, isn’t it a good opportunity to take the time to correct mistakes both to learn how for the next copy, we all make mistakes I know I do, and to show Chris’ design in the best possible light. I don’t think speed is a goal. It’s not really a prototype if you leave the mistakes, prototypes are to identify and correct them, at least as I understand 
 

Sorry if this isn’t taken well. I mean it it this best possible way. I want both you, as a fellow Glenn, and Chris to be successful. 

Edited October 24, 2021 by glbarlow

[Glenn-UK]

My aim is to continue to show the errors of my ways with this build so others do not follow in my footsteps, to try out ideas both good and bad and not to worry too much with how this model turns out. I am enjoying the build and fully accepting my build standard it is not a very good example of a brilliant design or what the kit deserves. I have learnt so much with the mistakes made and once the next batch is released I can take my time to build a much better model.

 

 

Edited October 22, 2021 by glennard2523

[glbarlow]

Ok, appreciate the reply. 

[Glenn-UK]

With apologies to @chris watton for how I have managed to turn his beautiful design of the quarter galleries and stern fascia section of the Sphinx in to a right dogs dinner. I would also like to apologise to @James H for not been being able to execute his very informative build manual instructions with the top quality pictures.  Also sorry to @glbarlow for not correcting the mistakes in my prototype build. I think the pictures attached to this post make a nice horror show precursor to Halloween. 🤣.

 

When I have received the new Sphinx kit I promise to make a much better job😀
Any news on the expected release date Chris for the next batch?

 

With regards to the stern fascia area I have fitted all the rails, the resin moulding and all the PE parts. With all the parts fitted it really does highlight just how badly misaligned my build is in this area. I cannot stress enough just how important it is to ensure the two counter patterns and stern fascia patterns are correctly positioned as instructed. Take a look at Blue Ensign's build log in this respect which is a great method to follow.

 

When painting the resin casting I used the same gold paint as James, diluted with a couple of drops of isotropic alcohol and a very fine paint brush. As soon as I put the paint on the resin it flowed beautifully over the raised resin sections and was looking very good until I noticed the paint had continued to flow and spread on to the flat blue surface. In future I will let the paint start to set before painting so it not quite so runny when it being applied.

 

Here is a couple of pictures of how the stern fascia looks on my build. The misaligned parts are very clear to see. It is not a pretty sight and I am deeply embarrassed with how it looks.

 

 

 

As can been seen on the next photo the quarter gallery is also a bit of a mess, noting I have not fitted the PE parts yet. As you will no doubt note the quarter gallery rails do not align with the stern fascial rails as they should. Another example of my shoddy workmanship.

 

[glbarlow]

Certainly no apology necessary. It’s your build. I just have faith you’re skilled and dedicated enough to make it right and was just encouraging that.  I ripped the sides off Cheerful twice, once after one side was ¾ done. 
 

It does, as you point out, show that mistakes happen and if not corrected at the time build and compound on each other. 

[chris watton]

Next batch shipping at the end of next week or beginning of week after, after receiving photo etch delivery confirmation.

 

I put in and paid for (a lot of money) a 'Repeat Order' of Sphinx photo etch sets in August. Due to miscommunication within the Italian PE company, what they sent was one of the 5 sets required, making this my month of hell. Problems now resolved, so all back to normal at the end of next week.

[Glenn-UK]

HULL WORK

HULL DECORATIONS

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 319 - 322

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Klear polish

CA Gel

Titebond

 

Assembly Process

I have completed the assembly of all 20 cannons. It has been a nice little side project with no problems completing this task

 

 

I have also assembled and fitted the side steps, 8 steps per side required. It was a bit fiddly assembling the side steps, but once I found the right method it was a not too bad.

 

Some steps will require painting, top one blue and lower three black.

 

I have also added all the hull decorations. I started this task but brushing a acetone solution over the PE sheet followed by a soapy water clean. Next I sprayed the sheet with a white primer. The hull decorations were then painted gold. Using the plan sheet as a guide the various friezes were added. I started with the Klear polish method but found it better to also apply a touch of ca gel to the ends of each frieze. When fitting the friezes I noted how important it is to ensure the rails have been correctly positioned. I ended up having to remove and repositioned some of the lower rails.

 

 

This picture shows the quarter gallery, I'm so glad I have another kit on order so I can make a much better job of it next time around.

 

 

This picture shows just how bad a job I made of the quarter galleries and stern fascia

 

 

I had completed many of the deck fitting as side projects so I thought now would be a good time to dry fit them to the deck

 

 

 

The binnacle and upper deck capstan are included in this picture

 

My Sphinx build does not look quite so bad when view from distance.🤣

 

 

Edited October 26, 2021 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

HULL WORK

CHAIN PLATES

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 325 - 330

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Blackening solution

Acetone

CA Gel

Round nose pliers

Brass pins

 

Assembly Process

I added the hinges to the bow gun and stern fascia ports. The PE parts were cleaned in acetone and soapy water before they were blackened. I applied a small amount of GA gel to stern fascia and moved each hinge into the required position. I then repeated this process for the bow gun ports. The gun port lid eyebolts were then glued in position with a touch of ca gel. The final task was to add a small length of 0.1 natural thread. One end was passed through the upper hole and held in position with a touch of ca gel. The other end was then threaded through the eyebolt and tied off. A small amount of ca gel was added to the knot before the excess thread was cut away.

 

The stern fascia, the next build will be much better.

The bow gun ports, the left hand hinge is not quite straight as the ga gel took hold before I had finished aligning it.

 

Next up was to add the various deadeye and chain plate assemblies. I removed the various PE parts and gave them a good clean in acetone and soapy water. I prefer to keep them as groups for the clean and blackening process.

 

This picture shows some of the PE parts in a acetone solution.

 

The cleaned parts were then blackened.

 

I counted 30 x 5mm deadeye assemblies and 24 x 3mm deadeye assemblies will be required in total so it will  some time to complete the assembly task.

 

The PE parts are ready to be installed.

 

Starting with the mizzen right-hand side channel the first deadeye was added. The PE was opened up so the deadeye could be added and then closed back down to hold the deadeye in place

 

 

The two chain plate parts were then attached and secured to the hull using a shortened brass pin. I might readjust the pin position as I think the chain plate assembly needs to be a tad tighter. The brass pin will need a touch of black paint.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Work progressing slowing on adding the deadeye and chain assemblies to the hull as my time is limited in the shipyard due to grandparent duties. The actual fitting task is not too bad and has been very well designed.

 

Right-hand mizzen channel assembly

 

Additional deadeye assembly aft of right-hand mizzen channel has now been added

 

Right-hand side main mast - the 2 x 3mm channel assembly

 

2 x 3mm deadeye assemblies for right-hand foremast channel. There is also second channel comprising 5mm and 3mm deadeye assemblies.

 

Work started on right-hand main mast channel adding the first 4 x 5mm deadeye assemblies. This channel also has 2 x 3mm deadeye assemblies which have been fitted and are ready to be pinned in place.

[Jasseji]

Damnit, i really need to finish the port galleries so i can catch up with you

[Glenn-UK]

7 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

Damnit, i really need to finish the port galleries so i can catch up with you

Better to take your time to get it right. My new Sphinx kit is due to arrive sometime next week and I have also ordered some Sphinx spares so I can try out a few different ideas with the build process without worrying about damaging the main kit. I will continue on with the first build as I want to get to the stage where all the decks and associated fittings have been added.

 

I plan to go ultra slow and cautious with the new build.

Edited October 28, 2021 by glennard2523

[JeffT]

I'm taking mine very slow. The bonus is I learn from everyone else.

[Chuck]

I am glad to hear you will slow down a bit. I cant see anyone being able to build the hull of 3/16” scale model of an English 5th rate frigate in just 3 months and have the parts all fit together properly and look decent.  Three months…that is indeed way too fast.

One thing I would recommend to all Sphinx builders is that you carefully sand and clean all the char off of the parts before you glue them on the model.  That will make a huge difference.  Even on the main deck which is laser etched with details.  There is so much laser residue being left on these parts.

 

 

If you would allow me to offer all the Sphinx builders a bit of advice.  
 

All of the laser char I am seeing left on many Sphinx build logs really detracts from the the models overall finished appearance.  Its not something that takes that long to do.  It seriously knocks the model down a few pegs when its not done.  This is true even if the parts are glued together with care.  
 

This is especially true with all all of the fancy hull moldings and fenders and knees.  The edges of the railings and coamings, and deck beams, etc.  Those fancy molding parts should be sanded and shaped with the top and bottom edges of the molding rounded off.  Otherwise it looks too flat and rather kit-like.  When you pay $800 to $900 on a kit these seem like rather easy steps to take to elevate the finished models appearance. It really doesnt take that long to do , nor is it very difficult.  Unless Im missing something,  why has this particular kit convinced folks to leave the laser char on all the parts when building the model.  I have looked at quite a few of these being built.  

 

When Chris assembles his prototypes without removing the char its for a reason….which is just to check that the parts fit.  No need for other Sphinx builders to follow suit as Chris made sure everything fits.  So go ahead and slow down and clean off all that char.  Even if you plan on painting those parts.  Its great surface prep.  I can even see the connectors where the parts were held in the laser cut sheets.  You shouldnt be able to see that on a finished model.  

[myxyzptlyk2003]

Chuck

Definitely good points.   But as to removing all the char, some of those parts are so fragile I can almost guarantee that you will break them with what might be unnecessary sanding as a number of those parts are painted anyway or are covered up.

[glbarlow]

31 minutes ago, myxyzptlyk2003 said:

what might be unnecessary sanding as a number of those parts are painted anyway

If you're properly painting thin coats of virtually any color other than black that char is going, and is, showing through the paint.  It isn't a race, nor is the model a Lego toy to push together parts. Taking the time to do it right costs you only time.

[Blue Ensign]

I sense Chuck's frustration at seeing what should be a wonderful model not being presented at its best for want of simple actions.

 I have copied his words at the head of each section of my  log  record as a reminder not to be tempted to cut corners, and leave undone that what should be done.

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

We all build for different reasons, yes I can build better models if I was so inclined to do so, but it is not in my DNA. My skills are improving with each build which does please me. It is a hobby I enjoy and is just that for me a hobby that helps fill in the day and keeps my mind active.

 

I am not building models for display purposes and they not normally seen by visitors to our home as they are not displayed in prominent positions around the house.

 

I did not find @Chuck comment supportive as it appeared to me to belittle the efforts of the different Sphinx builds and not something I would expect from the Admin team. Yes point out if something is not fitted correctly by all means, but please not imply that I'm a bad model builder.

Edited October 29, 2021 by glennard2523

[James H]

25 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

I did not find @Chuck comment supportive as it appeared to me to belittle the efforts of the different Sphinx builds and not something I would expect from the Admin team. Yes point out if something is not fitted correctly by all means, but please not imply that I'm a bad model builder.

 

Hi Glenn,

 

I think Chuck's comments are more borne out of frustration that you could all make your models so much better looking with almost zero extra effort. It's not a case of using advanced skills. These are very basic skills, and I have to admit that I can't understand those who wouldn't want to use those very basic skills. Yes, it's a hobby! But why shouldn't someone want to do their very best in that hobby, even if they know they won't ever produce museum quality models. I know that I never will, but would hate to think I spent my free time creating something I knew could be better with no extra skills needed other than the very basic. Why shouldn't we do our very best.....even in a hobby? Because it's a hobby, it doesn't mean we should ever be tardy in our efforts, or cut corners in some mad rush to get to a finish line. If I only ever built one model again, I'd rather it was the very best I could achieve, than a dozen I was less proud of. I should be proud of showing my work, even if only average, to anyone who wanted to see it....including visitors to my home.

 

Please take Chuck's words as more an effort to nudge folks into using the very basic skills, and not jumpstarting you into becoming the next David Antscherl or Harold Hahn. That wasn't the intention. He certainly wasn't there to belittle. Some things are so glaringly obvious that I have to ask myself sometimes why they were left in all their non-glory.

 

As a member of said 'admin team', and someone who helped Chris with this development, I feel I had to reply. Until now, I've kept quiet publicly.

[myxyzptlyk2003]

1 minute ago, James H said:

 

Hi Glenn,

 

I think Chuck's comments are more borne out of frustration that you could all make your models so much better looking with almost zero extra effort. It's not a case of using advanced skills. These are very basic skills, and I have to admit that I can't understand those who wouldn't want to use those very basic skills. Yes, it's a hobby! But why shouldn't someone want to do their very best in that hobby, even if they know they won't ever produce museum quality models. I know that I never will, but would hate to think I spent my free time creating something I knew could be better with no extra skills needed other than the very basic. Why shouldn't we do our very best.....even in a hobby? Because it's a hobby, it doesn't mean we should ever be tardy in our efforts, or cut corners in some mad rush to get to a finish line. If I only ever built one model again, I'd rather it was the very best I could achieve, than a dozen I was less proud of. I should be proud of showing my work, even if only average, to anyone who wanted to see it....including visitors to my home.

 

Please take Chuck's words as more an effort to nudge folks into using the very basic skills, and not jumpstarting you into becoming the next David Antscherl or Harold Hahn. That wasn't the intention. He certainly wasn't there to belittle. Some things are so glaringly obvious that I have to ask myself sometimes why they were left in all their non-glory.

 

As a member of said 'admin team', and someone who helped Chris with this development, I feel I had to reply. Until now, I've kept quiet publicly.

I agree with Glen.    We are all different people with different goals and personalities.   For someone like me, while those skills may be basic they still take time and in the end it comes down to do I want to spend that time "improving" things.   There are lots of time that "good enough" is good enough and it's not worth the extra effort to strive for perfection.     Example,  fully rigged cannons.    Most of the time you can't see them as they are under decks but there is no way I am going to spend the time on doing that.   It's a basic skill but just not worth it for me and my goals.

[glbarlow]

I agree with Chuck and James. Removing all the char from pieces before assembly is not an advanced skill. That alone makes a big difference and should jump past any “good enough” qualifier. Chuck’s initial comments aren’t to belittle, but to encourage taking a little more time to get a lot better result. At least that’s how I read it. 

[Chuck]

I was just trying to give some advice.  It makes a huge difference.  I will remain silent and let you get on with it.  I am not sure why you would build it again however.  I am not saying you are a bad modeler at all.  Just an impatient one.  I was thrilled to hear you were building another and slowing down.  

[myxyzptlyk2003]

4 minutes ago, Chuck said:

I was just trying to give some advice.  It makes a huge difference.  I will remain silent and let you get on with it.  I am not sure why you would build it again however.  I am not saying you are a bad modeler at all.  Just an impatient one.  I was thrilled to hear you were building another and slowing down.  

One of the pictures of an example of removing the char was of the railing area amidships leading down to the gangway.     Those very fragile parts are going to be painted black.    And while you (or someone) stated that the char will still show through black, I completely disagree with that.   Vallejo black out of the bottle will cover just about everything.      Why waste time removing char from areas where it will never show?

[Nipper]

As a relative newbie to boat building and to MSW, this discussion prompted by Chuck's comment above is what helps to make this hobby so fascinating.

 

I am in awe of the skills shown by those of you who contribute your build logs to MSW, and your explanations and photos have been a huge inspiration in helping me to improve my own skills in my first build - Chris Watton's Alert.  I have noticed a variation in the "quality" of builds, but I have to say, does this matter?  I found Chuck's comments helpful, in the same way that BE did, because it's a reminder about how to achieve the best outcome for me.  But my "best outcome" as a definition of what the hobby means to me is going to be different to many others.  

 

I read  a cautionary note somewhere in MSW about being careful not to criticise another's efforts in a destructive manner.  I am certain that was not the intention of Chuck's comment.

[Chuck]

I was hopeful that because this log by your own account was going to serve as a teaching tool that we could really make it a teaching tool. The char can absolutely be removed from most pieces.  There are techniques and methods to accomplish this.  

I thought you wanted to improve things on your second attempt especially after spending my guess is $1800 on Sphinx up to this point …
 

I thought this would prompt questions of “This part is fragile, how can I safely remove the char”.   Then we can discuss the methods. 
 

I think the group would like to know how to do so.  But its fine I will refrain from posting or encouraging you to try.  Its fine if you want to simply “assemble” your second attempt as well.  Its just a hobby.  I just thought you wanted to do more the second time around.

 

The laser does not leave a smooth surface at all.  If you look closely at the cut edge you will see rough lines where the laser cuts through the wood.  Smoothing these out greatly enhances the finish even after painting them black.

 

Black has a tendency to reflect the light in a way that actually makes these laser cut marks more noticeable.  Especially if a shinier finish is applied afterwards which I would try to avoid if no attempt to clean the char is made before painting.

 

If you decide you want to try a technique to do so please dont hesitate to ask.