HMS Bellona by yvesvidal - FINISHED - CAF Model - 1:48

[yvesvidal]

Mike,

 

Yes the kit comes with the 74 guns, 28 big caliber, 28 mid-caliber and the rest made of small guns. All carriages are there too.

 

Yves

[Kevin]

i am aware that there is no masting kit for this, but i dont see any slots in the keel to take one if you went that way and did your own

[Hubac's Historian]

Wow - so, the kit does not come with mast or spar stock?  I mean, it isn’t a big deal to buy dowels, and then you could select for straightness.  It’s just a little surprising.

[mtaylor]

57 minutes ago, Hubac's Historian said:

Wow - so, the kit does not come with mast or spar stock?  I mean, it isn’t a big deal to buy dowels, and then you could select for straightness.  It’s just a little surprising.

Given the size of this beast, it seems to me that it would be ok.   Not sure how tall it would be with full masts but probably take up a huge amount of space.

[Kusawa2000]

4 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

Mike,

 

Yes the kit comes with the 74 guns, 28 big caliber, 28 mid-caliber and the rest made of small guns. All carriages are there too.

 

Yves

Yves: Thanks for the reply..Im working up to buying the kit and was just wondering what the lay of the land was with the guns.. Kits that have the half length dummy guns without carriages is a real pet peeve of mine.. It bugs me so much that I built the Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon with full guns and carriages on the lower gun decks.. 

 

Good news that CAF models has not gone that direction. Keep the pics coming. its great to see your progress. 

 

MIKE

[yvesvidal]

18 hours ago, Kevin said:

i am aware that there is no masting kit for this, but i dont see any slots in the keel to take one if you went that way and did your own

That is correct Kevin. There is nothing planned for the masting. 

 

The mast will rest on the main spine and the kit provides wooden rings and various strengthening parts if you decide to install them. This is an admiralty kit first of all.

 

I intend if I ever get there, to install the bowsprit.

Masts? I will plan for them and make sure that the anchoring is solid, if I ever get to that part of the ship.

 

It is an enormous kit and there is so much to assemble: the full 74 guns in themselves are a daunting task.

 

Yves

Edited October 24, 2021 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

14 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Given the size of this beast, it seems to me that it would be ok.   Not sure how tall it would be with full masts but probably take up a huge amount of space.

 

The real ship is 57 meters high from the flotation line to the top of the main mast. At 1/48th scale, it makes for 1.16 meter high.

 

Yves

[rvchima]

On 10/19/2021 at 5:30 PM, yvesvidal said:

I know I am going to shock a few members, but I started sanding the bottom of the hull with an electric sander and 60 grit paper: 

...

Honestly, unless you want to exhaust yourself and loose your arms, that is the only way to do it. We are dealing with very good 5 plies plywood, almost marine quality and it is quite hard to sand. This is not the basswood found in Model Shipways kit (nothing wrong with their kits, by the way).

 

The model is coming along beautifully! I am looking forward to seeing some of those cast cannons poking out of the gun ports.

 

What a shame about the wet wood though. I am glad to hear that CAF models will replace it.

 

I am totally on board with using power tools as needed. Proxxon's oscillating sander is great for small details as long as you make up your own self-adhesive sandpaper.

 

Rod

[yvesvidal]

A few issues have been solved with CAF Bellona. One of them (and not the least) is the Stern.

 

At the end of Session #1, the following is proposed: 

 

 

There is not enough material and information to really make it a success. My approach has been the following: 

 

Using Picture 22, I only glued D1 to D4 on each side. That was done after fairing the hull, to avoid breaking the delicate parts. 

The sandwich suggested in Picture 24 is not really necessary and as we will see only the two D-5-c parts are necessary. But this is left aside for now as D5 has not been glued to the transom. With only the Session #1 kit, you cannot and should not go any further.

 

I was so much in the dark that I asked for help to Tom. He provided me with these two CAD drawings that shed so much light on my problem: 

 

 

 

With Session #2, an interesting piece of information is revealed: 

 

 

Part #25 is key and will help you build the correct alignment for the left and right D5 parts as well as provide that crucial 152 mm width, which is essential when building all the magnificence of the stern. In the picture below, you can see how Part 25 is coming to save us: 

 

 

A little verification of the distance: Yes, it is very close.

 

 

At that stage, I glued the two shells "Q" on each side.

 

 

D5 parts are still floating and have not been secured to the transom. Once Q is properly glued and aligned with the rest of the hull, the parts D5 and D-5-C will be shaped to fit.

 

 

Above you can see D-5-A and D-5-B on the right and the two D-5-c parts glued together on the left. I did not need the parts on the right. D-5-C assembly is filed down to almost nothing to fill in the gap between the D5 futtock and the shell Q: as you can see below, there is still plenty to remove....

 

 

Finally, when the sandwich D-5-C have been reduced to a sliver, it can be glued to D5, which can be in turn glued to the transom, using the shell Q as a guide for proper alignment. The gluing is done with part 25 in place, to make sure that everything is perfectly lined up.

 

Finally, we come to that: 

 

 

 

Above, D1 (the center futtock) will be removed as I intend to make the rudder movable. D1 is in the way, and its only purpose is to make sure that you have a central reference. Once part 25 is glued, it will not be really necessary.

 

 

Yes, the Sacro-saint dimension of 152 mm is there: 

 

 

We finally come to a point where we are starting to have a decent stern:

 

 

I hope these explanations will be useful to some readers. This is definitely not a Vanguard Model with a documentation done by James H. We are trailblazing here.... Next, the stem....

 

Yves

 

Edited October 27, 2021 by yvesvidal

[Patrick Haw]

Yves,

 

Fantastic work! You are the one who is basically writing the manual for this model. It looks like the manual from CAF is comprised entirely of CAD drawings, so your log here with pictures, tips, and hints will be invaluable for future builders.  Well done!

 

Patrick

[Kevin]

i have just had the same issue with the transom timbers, a 1/48 build does not like being moved around 

[yvesvidal]

I finished the installation of the shell panels at the bow. This was done after re-positioning the futtocks for bulkheads 4 and 3. Dimensions (spacing between the top of the futtocks) are now as indicated on the 3D drawings provided by Tom (see previous posts).

 

 

 

 

I still have to glue the futtocks related to the first Bulkhead and place the last panels (A): 

 

 

 

Above, just remove the two small triangular shaped parts at the very front of the bow. They serve no purpose and are a hindrance when shaping the front bow shells.

 

Gluing Panels A, B and C required soaking the wood in warm water, to make it more compliant. The curves are intense and creating them with flat two-dimensional pieces is not exactly ideal. I probably will have to use some wood putty to "fair" the angles.

 

The front parts still have to be built: a sandwich of 12 layers of 5 mm plywood, glued and filed to shape:

 

 

For the starboard side, I tried to follow the instructions and grind the inside, which is a waste of time and energy. On top of that, it make the parts more fragile. Instead, I removed the tiny triangular pieces at the very front of the bow, and installed directly the assembly. Much easier and more solid.

 

 

Each round shape for the bow, is glued with Epoxy two components glue.

 

 

 

 

Yves

 

 

Edited October 30, 2021 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

SESSION #1 is OVER !!!!!!!!

 

So, Session #1 is officially over and Session #2 has been started as indicated by the following excerpts of the IKEA style instructions: 

 

 

A few views to show you the overall beast! Impressive and massive: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 As a conclusion for Session #1, I would say the following: 

 

• CAF should provide the parts that allow you to verify the correct spacing between the top of the futtocks. These parts are only available with Session 3 and 4 and this is way too late in the hull construction process. Other manufacturers like ZHL or Model Shipways provides bulkeads or futtocks with a removable middle sections. Once assembled and glued, you cut the top and voila.... On such a kit, this lack of help is not acceptable (even the spacing between futtocks is not indicated on the plan, in a clear way). When building a Framed model (POF), a full jig is provided allowing you to assemble the hull without major mistakes. Here, it feels at times like flying a plane in the dark without IFR instrumentation.
• The Stern should not be assembled until you have Session #2 in your possession. I suppose this is a trick to force you into purchasing the additional sessions.
• Wood is of very good quality and a pleasure to work with.
• The cuts are very precise, well done and parts are very easy to detach from the sheets.
• I wish the stand (to hold the hull) would be offered in Session #1 and not in Session #4.....
• Instructions need a lot of improvements...... a lot!!!!

 

Overall I am very pleased with this kit and would recommend it even to beginners (like me). It does not require any special tools besides sandpaper, files and X-Acto tools.

 

So, let's move on with Session #2..... the planking and the Gun deck !!!

 

Yves

Edited October 30, 2021 by yvesvidal

[John Ruy]

Yves, This is an awesome project, can’t wait start seeing details. i.e. planking, chainplate and bowsprit. Your doing a great job reviewing this kit as well as laying the foundation. Who knew you were a beginner, like me. 😆

 

John

[yvesvidal]

Moving along with the stern. I have glued the famous #25 part with 2 components epoxy glue, after carefully checking alignment and dimensions.  I do not have Session #4 yet, which includes the balcony and floor that will be resting on that part, but I suspect it will work fine.

 

 

The central futtock #1, is not glued since it will be discarded: 

 

 

After positioning carefully the windows, I am gluing the first plank on the stern. This one and the following will be curved after soaking them in luke warm water. Not easy as these planks are made of 3 mm thick lime wood (I suspect it is lime).

 

 

Moving on with the planking of the poop: 

 

 

 

 

 

Yves

 

[PierreM]

Je viens de découvrir, ce kit semble de bonne qualité. Bonne continuation.

 

Have a good day.

[yvesvidal]

The planking on the poop is not perfect but everything will be painted and  I will use some wood putty to fill the imperfections.

 

Now, I need the opinions of experts: CAF recommends starting to plank the bottom of the hull, without any comments, of course. I have been looking at various Build Logs and some people start with the wales. 

 

I am thinking about starting with the wales to really define the hull and make it as symmetric as possible and also start planking the bottom of the hull, near the keel. Once the wales are in place and correctly sanded, I was thinking about planking from the wales down to the keel. 

 

There is no second planking on that large model and all the planks are 8 mm wide by 3 mm thick lime wood. Tough stuff to handle and very stiff. The hull is supposed to be coppered but I have not made up my mind yet and the CAF tiles are way too small for this model. I would have to procure them from another source.

 

Suggestions, recommendation, hints, advices are the most welcome.

 

Yves

Edited November 4, 2021 by yvesvidal

[Trussben]

I would definatly put the Main wales in place first as this sets up where Everything else goes.

[Kusawa2000]

45 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

The planking on the poop is not perfect but everything will be painted and  I will use some wood putty to fill the imperfections.

 

Now, I need the opinions of experts: CAF recommends starting to plank the bottom of the hull, without any comments, of course. I have been looking at various Build Logs and some people start with the wales. 

 

I am thinking about starting with the wales to really define the hull and make it as symmetric as possible and also start planking the bottom of the hull, near the keel. Once the wales are in place and correctly sanded, I was thinking about planking from the wales down to the keel. 

 

There is no second planking on that large model and all the planks are 8 mm wide by 3 mm thick lime wood. Tough stuff to handle and very stiff. The hull is supposed to be coppered but I have not made up my mind yet and the CAF tiles are way too small for this model. I would have to procure them from another source.

 

Suggestions, recommendation, hints, advices are the most welcome.

 

Yves

Yves: I agree with your approach on the wales.. just make sure you measure.. measure and measure.. the location of the wales need to be exact as everything else is affected including channels. 🙂 Also,, if you want a alternative for copper plates supplied.. go to a stained glass store and buy their copper tape.. its in different sizes and it works great for copper plated. You will need a ponce wheel for simulating nails and you will need to cut them into individual plates which can be a tad tedious... Keep up the good work

 

MIKE

[Kevin]

i would also get the wales in first

very surmised that the copper tiles are not the right size

[yvesvidal]

Kevin

 

The Bellona copper tiles were 4 feet by 15 inches according to the Anatomy of the Ship. At 1/48th scale, that translates to: 2.5 cm x 0.8 cm.

The sample tiles that Tom sent me are about half the required size. I suspect they must have 1/64th scale tiles and that does not work too well, on that huge hull.

 

Yves

[Kevin]

27 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

Kevin

 

The Bellona copper tiles were 4 feet by 15 inches according to the Anatomy of the Ship. At 1/48th scale, that translates to: 2.5 cm x 0.8 cm.

The sample tiles that Tom sent me are about half the required size. I suspect they must have 1/64th scale tiles and that does not work too well, on that huge hull.

 

Yves

thats so strange that all that work has gone into this development uh well

[Kusawa2000]

1 hour ago, yvesvidal said:

Kevin

 

The Bellona copper tiles were 4 feet by 15 inches according to the Anatomy of the Ship. At 1/48th scale, that translates to: 2.5 cm x 0.8 cm.

The sample tiles that Tom sent me are about half the required size. I suspect they must have 1/64th scale tiles and that does not work too well, on that huge hull.

 

Yves

Yves: Thanks for doing the homework on this as I was wondering about the size of the copper plates. And that width of plate you can get in Copper tape from a stained glass store... Around $20 Canadian.

 

MIKE

[yvesvidal]

Breaking away from the CAF instructions (which are recommending planking the lower hull first) I went ahead and worked on the Wales. After carefully measuring and getting the right positioning of these from pictures and the blueprint, I went ahead and started gluing the thick and stiff strips of cherry wood, provided in the kit. These are 8.5 mm wide by 3 mm thick and quite a challenge to bend. Some warm water allowed me to follow the natural curve of the hull: 

 

 

The wales are glued with slow curing two components resin epoxy. I have to wait about 6 to 8 hours for each strip and there are nine strips total. Maybe I need to be less generous on the amount of glue....

 

 

Wales are glued staggered, in order to define a nice and regular curve, along the hull.

 

 

Three strips are about 25 mm wide, which is one mm short of what the blueprint is indicating. However, following the Anatomy of the Ship book, I will be approaching the wales on a more gradual basis, instead of the way it is done in the kit.

 

In the kit, we have 3 mm thick (wales) and we then plank the upper hull with 0.4 mm maple strips. That creates a brutal transition which is contradictory to what the reference book is showing. Instead, I will use 3 mm for the wales, 1.5 mm transition strip (not provided in the kit) and the 0.4 mm upper hull planking.

 

 

Still plenty of sanding to be done....

 

Another aspect of the upper hull that needs to be addressed, is the upper deck gun ports: 

 

 

These present a large opening which is not right and will create a void, when the external planking is installed. Using 1.5 x 1.5 mm strip (not provided in the kit), I am filling up the gap created between the outer shells and the futtocks. The lower gun deck, does not need that treatment since the gun port lids are supposed to be inserted there. When dry, everything is sanded smoothly and the upper hull planking could be technically started at that point. We will not do that quite yet....

 

 

An overall view of the starboard side with the wale installed. To accommodate the sharp curve at the bow, I took my 8.5 x 3 mm cherry strips and split them in two, on the length of the bow curve. After a soaking in alcohol, the smaller strips created by the cut are easier to bend and less likely to break. At the bow, you can actually see 6 small strips.

 

 

About four coats of Model Shipways acrylic black paint to get a sense of the wale: 

 

 

Still plenty of sanding to be done and another four coats to make it look nice.

 

Another point to not forget, is the painting of the gun ports and some wood putty in places where they may be small imperfections in the smoothness of the hull. I am trying to finish one side before moving to the port side of the hull. I hate repetitive tasks.... when building a 74 guns ship, what can you expect?

 

 

Yves

Edited November 9, 2021 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

I am exploring some colors for the upper part of the hull and the channels: 

 

 

On the left side, we have Wipe-On-Poly on basswood and maple strips. The WOP may get darker with multiple applications.

On the right side, Minwax Mustard water based color. The mustard will get duller with time.

 

Overall view to get a better feel: 

 

 

Let me know your preferences and some other tricks to color the maple and basswood. The original model is shown below: 

 

 

And a painting of HMS Bellona by Geoff Hunt: 

 

 

Yves

Edited November 9, 2021 by yvesvidal

[John Ruy]

Yves, I vote for the natural look. Give it a few more coats to be sure you like the darkening of the poly. 
 

Having said that, what is the historical coloring of the ship? That probably doesn’t help your decision. 😆

[Kevin]

1 hour ago, yvesvidal said:

I am exploring some colors for the upper part of the hull and the channels: 

 

 

On the left side, we have Wipe-On-Poly on basswood and maple strips. The WOP may get darker with multiple applications.

On the right side, Minwax Mustard water based color. The mustard will get duller with time.

 

Overall view to get a better feel: 

 

 

Let me know your preferences and some other tricks to color the maple and basswood. The original model is shown below: 

 

 

Yves

what ever you choose i will do the other lol

[mtaylor]

I'm in the neutral zone.... either one.  However, what are your intentions for the rest of the ship as far as paint?  That should be taken into the decision.   

[yvesvidal]

The starboard side is pretty much ready for planking. Main, lower and upper wales have been installed and all gun ports sanded and painted: 

 

 

 

Now, I just have to do the exact same thing on the port side....

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

I completed the wales on the port side. I still have to fix and paint the gun ports on that side, as well as install the upper wale. That one is easy (1.5 mm basswood) compared with the main wales (3 mm x 8 mm cherry wood).

 

For a change of pace and more self inflicted torture, I decided to start planking that monstrous hull. Each plank is made of 3 mm thick by 8 mm wide poplar/lime wood and is very stiff. I split the hull in three belts, following the recommendations of experts (such as Chuck) and started planking the garboards and the first planks to the keel.

 

 

 

 

So far, I have installed 4 planks on each side. About 24 planks should go under the wales, on each side.

 

 

This is still Session #2 and it is by far the biggest session, with the hull planking, wales, upper hull planking, channels, gun deck and 28 big caliber guns to assemble, not counting two capstans, bitts and numerous grates.

 

Session #2 also includes the copper tiling of the hull. I have not decided if I will tile the ship and it will depend of the appearance of the hull. Honestly, I have never planked such a big and curvy hull and each plank presents its amount of challenges.

 

I may be stuck for months on Session #2 and the sanding of that behemoth will require an electric sander, preceeded by a wood scraper.

 

I have secured all five sessions of the kit (you never know what may happen between the USA and China) and I will be presenting the remaining three sessions at a later time. Crazy stuff for sure and tons of parts to assemble for a life time.

 

Yves

Edited November 18, 2021 by yvesvidal