Ships Wheel Project by usedtosail - FINISHED - 1:16

usedtosail · October 25, 2021

I really enjoyed building the 1:16 capstan from the NRG plans and instructions, and the planking on the Duchess is a slow process, so I thought why not build another ships component in the same scale at the same time. There are very good instructions in TFFM vol. 2 for building a ships wheel, so I am going to use them to attempt to build a 1:16 ships wheel with a similar display as the capstan. I'll have three quarterdeck beams held together with some planking with the wheel between two of them and the hole for the mizzen mast between the middle beam and the other beam. I dimensioned out the drawings from the book for 1:16 scale and started cutting blanks of wood for the barrel, stanchions, beams, and planks, mostly from pear, except for boxwood for the barrel. I am thinking of using brass rings to cover the openings in the outer ring of the wheel but that is assuming I can cut good rings that big. I'll again mostly be using the lathe and the mill for this project, along with the bandsaw and Byrnes saw and thickness sander for cutting the blanks.

gjdale · October 25, 2021

Sounds interesting Tom - I’ll follow along for the ride.

usedtosail · October 28, 2021

Welcome Grant and thank you for the likes. I guess I better get to it.

I turned the barrel from a square length of boxwood on the lathe. Nothing too difficult here. I used a combination of the lathe cutting tool when I could fit it and files of various widths to get the final result. The middle part of the barrel is still too long in this shot but I turned it down to the correct length after I took it.

Today I cut 10 wedges of pear wood that I will glue together to make the blank for the hub and rim. I had some trouble getting the 36 degree angle right on these pieces. I need to find a good tool for setting the angle of the bar on the Byrnes saw sliding table. Any suggestions would be welcome. Here they are along with the finished barrel.

I think the hardest part of this project is going to be making the 10 identical spokes. I am working through the best way to turn them. There is a thread on this site that discusses lathe duplicators but it seems people haven't had much success with them. I will have to do some experimenting to see if I can get satisfactory results using a brass template.

gjdale · October 29, 2021

Nice start Tom.

Re your query on setting the angle for the Byrnes saw, could you use a sliding bevel for this purpose? I’m thinking draw a line on piece of scrap ply or MDF (or any other wood) using a protractor to get the desired angle, then set the sliding bevel to that line, then place the sliding bevel on the sliding table of the Byrnes saw with the stock edge against the rear fence, and the blade extending out to the angle bar. I’m sure this sounds a lot more complicated than it is in practice, but in my mind it works!

usedtosail · October 29, 2021

Grant that sounds like the way to go. I just ordered a sliding bevel and will try it out. I also ordered a Digital protractor since I had no protractors in the shop or house.

BobG · October 29, 2021

This looks like it will be a very interesting project so I'll pull up a chair and follow along. Good luck, Tom!

usedtosail · October 30, 2021

Welcome Bob.

I glued the wedges together and was deeply saddened to see that they fit together nicely near the outer edges, so I can use it for the outer rim, but there were too many cracks near the center to use it for the hub. I will use a square piece of pear instead for the hub. The wedges are also just small enough to fit on the lathe, but I can also use the mill and the rotary table to cut the rim instead. I haven't decided yet. I now have a dimensioned set of plans for most of the various pieces, so I won't have to work off hand drawings.

jlefever · October 30, 2021

A question about the wood grain in your wedges.

In your image it appears that the wood grain runs from the perimeter of the wheel toward it's center. For strength, wouldn't it be better (closer to the prototype as well) if the grain ran parallel to the circumference of the wheel?

Jim

usedtosail · October 30, 2021

Yes Jim it would have been better that way. but I didn't have a chunk of pear wide enough to cut them that way. I'll try this one as is and see how it turns out. At least it will be practice for the real one.

usedtosail · November 1, 2021

I started turning the rim on the lathe but didn't like how it was cutting so I converted the lathe to the mill and chucked the rim blank on the rotary table, then turned the outside edge of the rim using a large end mill bit. It cut much better and left a nice surface on the edge. I then used the same end mill bit to cut the inner edge. You can see the big screw I put through the blank and the round holder that is in the chuck because I did not want these to separate during the cutting process. I left a bit of material on the back side to use as a guide when I cut the rim from the blank.

I then changed to a smaller end mill for the slots for the spokes. I cut these at 36 degree increments half way in between the joints.

I am in the process of cutting the slots in the hub using the same method.

gjdale · November 1, 2021

Clever Tom, very clever!👏👍

usedtosail · November 2, 2021

Thanks Grant. I saw this method in a video I think.

I finished cutting the slots for the spokes in the hub then parted the rim from the blank. I used a razor saw up against the extra material I left, then clamped the rim with the cut side up so I could mill it to its final thickness.

I milled up to the clamps then rotated the rim in the clamps to get the parts that were under the clamps. I used a wide enough end mill bit so I didn't have to have the rim exactly centered but the hole pattern on the work plate made it easy to get it close. Here is how the rim and hub turned out, with some temporary spokes of 1/8" basswood holding them together at the correct distance apart.

I am going to use the rim blank as the assembly board, so I milled out the center so the thicker hub will lay at the correct height to the rim.

I will be making the mizzen mast partners and the stanchions next.

usedtosail · November 3, 2021

I made the stanchions today using blanks of pear wood that were cut to the correct dimensions. I first rounded the tops again using the rotary table on the mill, with a large end mill bit. I cut both blanks at the same time, then cleaned up the cuts with a sanding block.

I then clamped the blanks to the cross slide and milled the inset area on the faces. I cleaned up the corners with an X-Acto knife and files. I then milled the holes for the barrel on the rotary table with a smaller end mill bit. I couldn't drill these holes because they are not all the way through and I wanted a flat bottom to the holes.

Here is the barrel in the stanchions.

Thanks all.

usedtosail · November 8, 2021

I extended the stanchions to fit between the beams, then used them and the barrel to measure the distance between beams. I made the mizzen mast partners by drilling the mast hole with a large drill bit and milling the slots in two beams so the partners were flush with the tops of the beams. Here you can get an idea of how this will be displayed, similar to the capstan project, although I will have a few planks to hold the beams together.

I cut the 2" square blanks for the spokes and a 2" square for the mast coat, so these will be made next.

usedtosail · November 9, 2021

I made the mast coat on the lathe but forgot to take pictures of the process and result. I did turn five of the 10 spokes today using the four jaw chuck in the lathe. I made one by marking off the square sections, then rounding and shaping the round sections using files and sandpaper. I used that first spoke as a guide for the others. I think these will work OK.

usedtosail · November 10, 2021

I finished making the 10 spokes for the wheel then made one to experiment on. The plans in David's book show more detail on the spokes so I used the extra spoke to try adding detail with various small chisels. I found that using the tip of an X_Acto blade, resting on the steady rest, made a nice small groove so I added two grooves at each transition from round to square.

While the spokes were in the lathe I also sanded the round sections with 400 grit sandpaper. I ended up remaking two of the spokes because I didn't like how they compared to the others. Here are the 10 spokes ready for fitting to the rim and hub.

I started fitting the spokes to the rim and hub by first making sure the notches were wide and deep enough to fit the square sections of the spokes. I then filed a flat onto the back of the outer square section to fit around the rim. I then marked where the spoke met the hub and filed a flat from there to the end of the spoke. Here are the first 6 spokes dry fit. I will have to wait until tomorrow to finish the other four.

You can also see the mast coat I made in the last picture. Just a simple ring really.

usedtosail · November 17, 2021

I finished adding the spokes to the rim and hub. I also milled two brass rings that will go on each side of the rim and will cover the slots with the spokes. The slots are much deeper on the hub so I cut small pieces of pear to fit over the spokes and fill the rest of the slot. I sanded these down so they are flush with the hub, then cleaned out the hole in the hub so the wheel fit nicely on the barrel. Here it is dry fit to the barrel and stanchions without any finish on these pieces yet. You can also see the brass rings in the background with the material for the planks.

Here is a close up of those filler pieces in the hub.

And a shot of the other side of the wheel.

I still have some cleaning up to do on these pieces then I will apply a coat or two of wipe on poly. I'll add the rings and pins to hold them later. I have cut the planks to width and can start putting the beams together after I apply some finish to those pieces as well.

usedtosail · November 22, 2021

I gave all the pieces made so far a coat of wipe on poly. I then glued the two brass rings to the rim using thin CA. I chucked the assembly board into the three jaw chuck and mounted the chuck on the rotary table in the mill. I clamped the wheel to the board and drilled the holes through the brass rings into the spokes and rim. I used a starter bit first and used the sensitive drill attachment for all the drilling operations. I then cut the heads off brass nails and glued them into the holes with medium CA. Here is one side with the nails. I will add the nails to the other side after these dry.

I am going to leave the brass rings and nail heads bright as this is more of a display piece than a truly realistic representation. Its almost time to start putting the pieces together.

Roger Pellett · November 22, 2021

Beautiful. Work, and a nice demonstration of using the rotary table to mill circular shapes. Well done!

Roger

usedtosail · December 1, 2021

Thanks Roger. I really appreciate the comments. And thanks for the likes too.

I am starting to put the pieces together. I glued the wheel to the barrel and the stanchions to the beams. I added a small square piece of boxwood to each of the stanchions so I had a supports to hold the plank I will fit between the stanchions. I also made a new piece that I decided to add under the barrel. From the beginning of this project I have wanted to add the tiller rope to the barrel. The only problem is that on the Swan class ships the tiller rope did not go through the quarterdeck, but instead lead to blocks along the inner bulwarks. Well since I have no bulwarks I had nowhere for the rope to go. I knew I didn't want to leave the ends just hanging from the barrel. Recently, on Chuck's Winchelsea build log, he shows a piece of wood under the wheel with two slots for the tiller rope. I liked the look of this piece so much I decided to take some artistic license and make one for this display. This will allow me to have the tiller rope go through the the deck, where I can tie the ends off. This may not be all that realistic but it does solver a problem for me. Is this too much of a stretch? Thoughts?

Here is a dry fit of the parts so far. The planks need to be cut to length and I will glue black construction paper to one edge for the caulking. I made treenails from toothpicks that I will add after the planks are installed. I also have the tiller rope made and added a nail to the barrel to hold the rope when I install it. It is just set in the hole for now.

Edited December 1, 2021 by usedtosail
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mtaylor · December 1, 2021

Looks good. I like the idea of the tiller ropes as you are doing them. Yes, artistic license but how many folks would know the difference?

usedtosail · December 2, 2021

Thanks Mark. I really can't think of another way to show the rope.

BTW, in the last pictures I posted of the dry fit parts the wheel is reversed on the beams. The actual wheel should be at the bow end, next to the mast hole.

usedtosail · December 6, 2021

I wasn't happy with the way the wheel was sitting on the barrel so I carefully removed it with some isopropyl, did some filing on the inside of the barrel and re-glued the wheel on. It looks much better. I also removed the stanchions and re-glued them back onto the beams so the mizzen mast hole was centered under the planks. I milled slots in the plank piece that will go under the barrel with the tiller rope guide piece on top, then glued them together and added treenails to the corners. I couldn't find my draw plate (it may have been lost in the move three years ago) so I made the treenails by chucking some small dowels in the Dremel and turning them down with a pin vise.

This worked really well. Here they are installed on the plank.

These are just decorative so I can add them before installing the planks. I think I an finally ready to put all the pieces together.

usedtosail · December 8, 2021

I have cut all the planks to length and around the mast hole. Here they are dry fit to the beams.

IMG_1451.jpg.449b29901f4a8d17c2277e72874810d3.jpg

I drilled holes for the treenails and glued them in. I also added two blackened eyebolts under the plank with the tiller rope guides to use to tie off the ends of the tiller rope.

I also pushed the nail from the barrel through the middle of the tiller rope and glued it back into the barrel. Next I will wrap the rope around the barrel and fix it with some diluted white glue to the barrel.

usedtosail · December 16, 2021

I cleaned up the excess length of the treenails and sanded the planks smooth. I glued the tiller rope to the barrel and then glued the planks to the beams. I used weights to hold them down while the glue is drying.

BobG · December 16, 2021

Really well done, Tom!

yvesvidal · December 16, 2021

well, after the capstan and the wheel, you now need to build the ship that goes around them, also at the 1/16 scale.

Yves

usedtosail · December 16, 2021

Thanks Bob and Yves. I'd need an addition on the house for a ship that size!

usedtosail · December 19, 2021

Here is the last step. I put the beams in a vise and threaded the tiller line ends through the guide and into the eyebolts I had placed under the plank. I seized the ends, pulled everything tight, and covered the seizings with Dullcote lacquer. When they are dry I'll trim the excess and the project will be done.

usedtosail · December 20, 2021

And here is the finished project. This was fun and I am displaying it next to the capstan which is in the same scale. If I was still working I'd put them on my desk but I don't have one of those anymore more (which is a good thing). I am not sure what my next scratch build project will be but for now I will be putting all my attention on the Duchess of Kingston build. Thanks for watching.