ancre Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Back inside on the first deck.

[cabrapente]

perfect. I love it

[dgbot]

Beautiful joinery and workmanship.

David B

[RichardG]

The lower deck looks like you wouldn't be surprised to see someone walking toward you or a group of carpenters working there.

 

Excellent work.

 

Richard.

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Photo 1-2 : marking 2 lines, 1 each side. Each one is mulitiplied by 2 to scribe about 240 notches on 4 rows of planks.

 

Photo 3 : 1 trash can of shavings for 3 masts, bowsprit was already done.

 

Photo 4-5 : aligning the mast, first 90 degree then a negative angle to take the wind.

 

Photo 6 : Experts said : Taking a 2 by 10  to make a model is a total waste of time.

[Ponto]

Wow,... is that a workshop or a laboratory?....why would you ever need to leave such confines...a modelers paradise  to be sure...

 

 

JP

[SJSoane]

 

Gaetan, this is a very fine slab of wood in the last photo. Is that the same wood that you are using for the ship?

 

Mark

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Hi JP, I like what I do, so I have no problems to stay there. Unlike what we could think, I try to have as little tools possible on the table. The idea is to have more space and also it is much easier to keep the room dust free

 

Hi Mark, It is from the same batch which I paid $2 pmp, the batch has mainly darker wood than this plank. Plank had many cracks, but  tis no problem if I saw in correspondance with the cracks. I would estimate that over 60% of the wood is  lost in sawdust. It takes some luck to find a good batch. The most important factor for me, the color: the darker the better. Previously to this batch, I bought another batch, also at the same price all 1 X 5 inches fresh from the planer but that batch was much lighter in color. I did offset the color by adding asphalt in powder in the mix with tung oil.

 

Gaetan

[cabrapente]

Hi Gaetan.

the translator tells me that you add the tung oil. tar (asphalt?) is in powder or liquid?

us newbies, learn thanks to your work and your advice.

thank you very much for everything

one cabrapente greeting

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Greetings Carabrente

 

Bitumen is an instant Aging solution. Depending of your application many  varieties can be applied.

 

bitumen allows beewax molecules to bind  and make the asphalt more neutral

 

asphalt:   Was used by the egyptiens for embalming   Oil suluble

 

pine resin:  Gives plastic properties  and can form a varnish if mixed with alcool

 

natural soap:  probably for the oils in the soap

 

turpentine:  Fluidity  and solubility of the mix

 

siccative of cobalt:   shorter drying time, max 10% of total mix.

 Not recommended with linseed oil, the reaction with linseed oil induces at long term crack and separation.   

 

There are many receipes, this means  you can can mix one that suit your needs just like a parfume. The simplest way asphalt plus tung oil. If you want to increase solubility, add turpentine or alcool which as a bonus will act as a fixative.

 Add asphalt to your mix make a test add continue until you obtain the desired tint (maximum % of asphalt 40%, if you add more it does not dissolve and sinks in the bottom.

 Asphalt must be applied in thin layers .  Do not apply in thick layers as a painters would do, it would be too hard to dry and would probably crack.

After drying, you can reduce the tint if required with 000 steel wool.

 Wax slows drying time softens the color and make it more transparent. Another possibility (for the hull by example, for large surface » Bee wax  with turpentine  to make a paste like shoe wax. Just these 2 elements makes a good finish on wood. You can also add asphalt progressively until you get the color you want.

Another example, asphalt plus turpentine to dissolve asphalt rest  for 15 minutes (chemical reaction continues to fully dissolve). Add tung oil.

To accentuate the details of a bow figure to make it look deeper, you can apply the mix especially in the deeper parts.

Finally, to complicate the process, you can add by layers. By example, apply and wipe to give patina at your taste and when finish  apply wax or oil as a finish.

Simplest way to use it. Asphalt plus tung oil, and for the hull, I like to add bee wax plus turpentine.

 

This should cover  the subject.

[cabrapente]

very detailed as ever. thank you very much.

  now practicing.

one cabrapente greeting

[mtaylor]

Gaetan,

 

Thanks for posting that on the bitumen.  That is probably the best explanation I've seen yet on the how to use it.

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Bolts for the first deck

 

Photo 1;  the red rectangle with a shoulder is slightly thinner than the bolt and is used a guide to make a hole always at the same place. The parallel holds the guide in place.

 

Photo 2-3-4;  preparing the planks for the channels

 

Photo 5-6-7; ouside bolts and the rest inside

 

I cannot print my log anymore! I lost the print icon at the bottom of the page. Same thing for others, but not all the other subjects. If someone has an idea I would be glad to hear it.

[dgbot]

Gaetan do you hire carpenter ants for this fine workmanship?  Marvelous.

David B

Edited May 1, 2015 by dgbot

[ianmajor]

Gaetan,

 

As ever your work is fabulous.

 

On the print icon issue have a look towards the end of the thread <here> . The print icon only appears on logs of 20 pages or less, it is a "feature". There does not appear to be a fix for this.

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Thank you Ian.

 

If there is no fix for this, I am wondering: Am I going to change build log every 20 pages if I want to be able to print the entire log???

[Landlocked123]

Hi Gaetan,

 

I've spent the last few hours reading this build log from the beginning. As a novice modeler, I find the level of your skill unbelievable (not only the modeling but photography as well). One thought I've had looking at your work is that the cherry will only get darker and more rich looking over time!

 

I have two questions;

 

One is where does one buy asphalt? I've seen it also called bitumin in some of the posts. Does it have another name in the U.S. I have been using the beeswax-turpentine mixture as a finish and I would love to make it a bit darker. I thought of using artists oil paints, but I think the asphalt will do the trick.

 

Two, if it is not impertinent, may I ask what was your career before becoming a master modeler?

 

I cannot think of the appropriate adjectives to describe your work, only to say that I aspire to you skills (and workshop! ) and to give you a heartfelt thank you for sharing it.

 

Best,

 

John

Edited May 1, 2015 by Landlocked123

[mtaylor]

Simply beautiful and well detailed Gaetan, right down the forelocks on the bolts.  

 

As far as I know, there's no fix for the print button disappearing.  Ask the question in the Questions/Problems area.  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/47-questionsinstructions-on-how-to-use-and-post-to-this-forumsite-problems-or-suggestions/   There might be a fix available.  It's a Forum Issue  not a PC (yours) issue.

[Landlocked123]

Mark,

 

Thank you for pointing me to this build log. It is truly fabulous.

 

Best,

 

John

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Thank you for your nice comments.

 

HI John,

 

This is sold under the name bitumen. In Canada, it is sold as Natural Bitumen by Waxine.  You can find in 2 kinds of store artist paint products and wood finishing products.  Depending of the % you add, the darker it will get and yes it does the trick. To answer, your second question. My father was building houses, so I learned at young age to use woods. This is why I have a long experience with wood. When I broke a finger around 15 years ago, I stopped model building and began to machined steel and aluminium tools  in a continuum to build more and more complex tool. When the day arrived where I had no more tools to build, I came back to wood  ship models. I am surely not the best modeler, but I know the road  to build it.  

 

HI Mark, 

 

Thank you I now understand the problem.

[SJSoane]

 

Gaetan,

 

I love that last photo, with parts lying on the deck ready for installation once the builders comes back from their break!

 

Mark

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Beams of the second bridgea are not fixed yet, some notches are still to be made on all beams and it is a lot easier  to do it on the working table.

 

A brass rod held in the Dremel picture 6 will be turned to  a door knob. Shaping is done  with a metal cutting wheel of the other electric pen.

[ChrisLBren]

Hey Gaetan

I just noticed your wales are now black ?  Did you paint, stain or dye them ?

Chris

[aviaamator]

Feast for the eyes!!! Great workshop- the key to great work! 

[mtaylor]

Love it, Gaetan.  One definitely feels like they're on board the real thing from the photography

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Hi Chris,

 

Wales are black on 1 side only.

 

Stain not dark enough.

I tried Dye with  black ink or shoe  dye, good  color but if you use a tape the dye is not stop and goes under the tape also.

 

Matt water base paint is better because it is more controllable.

 

Gaetan

[Trussben]

Gaetan

 

So you had issues with the dye bleeding into other areas, I was thinking of using fiebigs dye when the time comes, but you have made me think now.

 

Ben

[dgbot]

I used black shoe dye for thee wales and dyed the wood off the model.  I prebent the parts first.  The dye ha a thing for seeping into the pores of what ever you are coloring.  But the effort is worth it.

David B

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Hi David, effectively off the model, it is easy.

But there are parts especially around gun ports which are not so easy.

 

I tried many solutions and what I find difficult is to keep homogeneity in the entire process, there is often an area which do not want to dye as well as the rest. This is particularly visible when taking photos.

 

Gaetan

[druxey]

The only reliable way to stain a wale is to do this before adding any other planking. It's all too easy to spread a little too much of the joy! To keep the dye off the stem, sanding sealer will seal the grain, plus Magic Tape masking rather than masking tape should do the trick. Some wood species do not take up dye evenly: there is nothing you can do about that, other than paint.