Jump to content

F4U-1A Corsair by DocRob - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/32


DocRob

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

It seems that the traditional decals are becoming history .....

 

Yves

Chuckle, I don't see the decal printers going out of business any time soon.... Not everyone has the skills to paint insignias and technical stenciling on everything....

 

Sometimes it is just easier to decal as opposed to painting... Few can tell the difference when done properly...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Works great in Rob's scale of 1/32. What happens in the smaller ones? I suppose there are 1/48 stencils for the national markings, but the neat fine print markings, like to fueling and weapons racks are impossibly tiny.. I salute the fine work done on this model. 👍

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

It seems that the traditional decals are becoming history .....

 

Yves

Gotta be a hard-core modeler to go the painted insignias/stencil placards route. I watch a lot of modeling videos and I can count on one hand the ones I've seen that do markings this way. Maybe if the cost goes down a bit, more modelers may try it. The stencils sell for $35 plus postage here in the USA. I think it's a good deal when you think of the level of realism it adds, but not too many will do it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Egilman said:

Very nice sequence, I remember creating these masks when friskit film became widely available, it's an involved process and takes a bit of patience, but when done right, beats all decals hands down...


Thank you Egilman and you are absolutely right, working with masks is a challenging, time consuming process, but very rewarding in the end.
I started airbrushing in the 80's, but on paper or foil, cutting all my masks for myself from frisket film. By this time, the only 'plastic thingies, I sprayed were motorcycle helmets.
There was a challenge between airbrushers, being able to cut masks from frisket film on a blown up balloon, without destroying it. I never made it :D.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

It seems that the traditional decals are becoming history .....

 

13 hours ago, Egilman said:

Chuckle, I don't see the decal printers going out of business any time soon.... Not everyone has the skills to paint insignias and technical stenciling on everything....

 

Sometimes it is just easier to decal as opposed to painting... Few can tell the difference when done properly...

 

8 hours ago, Canute said:

Works great in Rob's scale of 1/32. What happens in the smaller ones? I suppose there are 1/48 stencils for the national markings, but the neat fine print markings, like to fueling and weapons racks are impossibly tiny.. I salute the fine work done on this model. 👍

 

6 hours ago, CDW said:

Gotta be a hard-core modeler to go the painted insignias/stencil placards route. I watch a lot of modeling videos and I can count on one hand the ones I've seen that do markings this way. Maybe if the cost goes down a bit, more modelers may try it. The stencils sell for $35 plus postage here in the USA. I think it's a good deal when you think of the level of realism it adds, but not too many will do it.


I agree with Egilman, decals will maintain the mainstay, when it comes to insignia and stencils. To my knowledge 1ManArmy is the only producer of stencil masks and they cover about 30 different planes only in 32 scale. 
There are HGW' transfers, which also look very convincing, without the typical decal issues. I used them on many different occasions and found them difficult to apply on a constant base. Some didn't adhere well and flaked off partly, ...
High quality decals do look good on a model, when applied correctly and there seem to be developments too, which make them appear more natural. I haven't tested Eduards newer decals, where they claim, you can remove the carrier film after application. If this works, it's the way to go.

Masking isn't for everyone. The casual modeler will be overwhelmed with the needed effort and discipline. It's so easy to make errors during the process. Guess how I know, having to make corrections on the stars and bars, due to not having followed the process entirely. I hate corrections and try to prepare everything in order to commit none. Errors to me are a show stopper, as the hinder my smooth work flow.


Thanks to you all for your interest in this important topic. Decaling or whatever technique to apply markings and stencils is one of the last steps in building a model and it's heart breaking to fail that late. 

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used masking sets for insignias from Montex on my F3F builds.  Was fairly easy, just have to make sure that you don't get bleeding under the mask.  I also came across these guys a few weeks ago when researching masks and decals for my upcoming Avenger builds:

 

https://kitmasx.com/

 

For what it's worth, some insignia are fairly easy to replicate via mask.  I saw a Plasmo video (I think on a Buffalo build) where he used the kit decals as a template for the US star mask.  Just put masking tape over the decal and traced out the star.  Rest of the insignia was fairly easy in that it only involved circles for the outer edge of the insignia and for the red circle in the middle of the star.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, ChrisLBren said:

This looks fantastic - I can't believe what some of you guys can do with plastic models.  Awe inspiring !!!!


Thank you Chris, it's not that hard to do. The kit builds up easily with a certain bit of discipline. The painting is mostly a question of dedication and thoroughly planning of the process. For me it helps to have a kind of detailed picture in my head, about what I want to achieve. Then I plan the sequences, first the building in subassemblies, like engine and cockpit and last, the exterior paintjob. According to my visualized finish thing, I develop my plan, how to get there in detail. There it helps, to have some experience with the processes, to be sure, that technically, nothing goes wrong.


I'm relatively astonished, how small the advancement is, between my two Corsair builds. The first one, a Birdcage, I built more than 10years ago and it was not much worse than this one and I used about the same techniques. The Birdcage was my first airplane build after reentering the hobby and I wanted to go all out to test myself.

I assume, that except from the experience, which makes things easier, it's all about, what you are prepared to throw into a build and what your goals are with it.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

I've used masking sets for insignias from Montex on my F3F builds.  Was fairly easy, just have to make sure that you don't get bleeding under the mask.  I also came across these guys a few weeks ago when researching masks and decals for my upcoming Avenger builds:

 

https://kitmasx.com/

 

For what it's worth, some insignia are fairly easy to replicate via mask.  I saw a Plasmo video (I think on a Buffalo build) where he used the kit decals as a template for the US star mask.  Just put masking tape over the decal and traced out the star.  Rest of the insignia was fairly easy in that it only involved circles for the outer edge of the insignia and for the red circle in the middle of the star.

 

I cut masks myself from different materials often but couldn't find it so easy Mike. Only cutting edges sharply with no 'overcut' is no gimmie. I used different brands of masks like Eduard, HGW, Maketar and now 1ManArmy. I used Montex masks only once and didn't like them too much. Vinyl to me is subpar material for proper masking. It stretches and even worse, it shrinks. 
For me that means, if there are quality masks available, I will use them. As I said with decals, It's normally very late in a build, when it comes ti insignia and stencils. Not a good time to fail, with all the work that went into the project.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yesterday, I finished to apply all the stencils on the wings, that were covered by other masks before. 

 

P1000124.JPG.a3ef76aa0ffbf04fe3ed123a3c9bfa54.JPG

 

...and while having the Nato black in the airbrush, I added the stencils on the wheel covers.

 

P1000122.JPG.95a7ad5e2bcbefdd3be09159c56fd910.JPG

 

... and then I realised, my god, I had completely forgotten to apply the 883's to the side of the fuselage. No big deal, except for covering the whole plane again, with different materials, in case of some white color bubbling somewhere unwanted. 
I also made the corrections to the stars and bars, while being on it. I think, the airbrushing phase is done so far, except for clear coats.

 

P1000125.JPG.9e89e8648797e35fd6e49f3c8c0cdf5f.JPG

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you remember the hairspray? I covered the chipped primer with a coat of clear and applied hairspray onto it, before I airbrushed the wing color, walkways, insignia and stencils.
Now was the exiting moment to see, if it still works after so many layers of paint. I dampened the areas with water and a drop of soap and let it soak for half an hour. The paint was a bit more resistant, than the primer chipping, but it worked. Using different tools, like toothpicks, a stiff brushes and some tweezers, I got what I wanted.
Now the whole plane was covered with a clear coat as preparation for further weathering.

 

P1000127.JPG.042a8436378ecff8653532c6b652c8cc.JPG

 

P1000130.JPG.0cf7b3078e34defdc356e9ccb49d18e7.JPG

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very well done, light to moderate chipping...

 

Looks real...

Edited by Egilman

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nicely done. Looks like a lot of the jets I flew, back in the day. Well worn.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice Rob!!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Egilman said:

Very well done, light to moderate chipping...

 

Looks real...

 

16 hours ago, Canute said:

Nicely done. Looks like a lot of the jets I flew, back in the day. Well worn.

 

11 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Nice Rob!!


Thank you Gentlemen, right now, the chipping looks a bit harsh too my eye, but that's on purpose, because washes, filters and further weathering will tune it down a bit. The benefit in using masks for the walkways, insignia and stencils is, you can chip through them with the hairspray beneath. I always liked chipping best, when simulating the real thing, like tear and abrasion, instead of painting something on. I will have to do so in some spots of the fuselage, only to match the wing chipping.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Superb   work   like  its  already been  said   -   looks  so  real.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today, I muddied my Corsair up with Flory's dark grime wash, a clay based liquid, which I applied over the whole airframe, after adding a drop of soap for better distribution, with a flat brush and let dry for about half an hour. The stuff is dried by then and looks totally grimy and dead flat.
Then, I wiped the excess away with a dry piece of cotton cloth in the direction of the airflow and the very fine clay stays in all the panel lines and other crevices. The best part about this wash, you determine the grade of dirt or you can remove it completely wiped down with water, if something went wrong.

 

P1000134.JPG.393ea2a5febd15c8c37748840a138a61.JPG

 

P1000135.JPG.40de7af5e11ffde96c8574eeb2801e1f.JPG

 

It's clearly more visible on the lighter underside, but also noticeable on the darker upper side. The good think, my pre shading is still full visible.

 

P1000136.JPG.65ff8038681747e3aa1692ca8f3975c2.JPG

 

As a break, I made some detail painting on the landing gear, adding the brake lines and other tiny bits and pieces (not shown) and chromed the cylinders with AK's chrome tape for the first time. It worked ok, a bit more adhesion would have been great on these parts with small diameters, but it looks chrome to me, so thumbs up.

 

P1000137.JPG.19a7a658cb88af97802b434d47ca8c29.JPG

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Amazing work.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Amazing work.

 

Thank you OC, it's a fun project and I like to build up paint and weathering in a layered fashion. The key for doing that, is work in very thin layers, not to destroy the superficial detail, which pleases the eye so much. On the wing roots, I applied, aluminum, pre shading, hairspray, interior yellow, clear, hairspray again, sea blue, black  for the markings and clear coat, nine coats in all and all the detail is still there. Multiple layers create depth, which is the goal of the process.

I'm thinking about adding another layer onto the sea blue, to enhance the depth furthermore with some oil color post shading.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some more weathering done. I've seen many corsair builds, where the whingroots were weathered and chipped like hell and the fuselage, nada, not a bit. I did some brush chipping with interior green and then added a variety of other stuff, to let especially the top color look a bit more interesting. I used AK's pencils in different grey and blue shades, creating chips and various dots everywhere. I used an old brush and dry brushed some of the intermediate blue for highlighting onto the darker blue. Then I used Tamiya's weathering pastels in different light colors and dabbed these onto the rivet lines and then brushed them smooth. This simulates an oil canning effect a bit and can best be seen in the spine section of the plane. I dabbed more pastels onto the upper parts of the fuselage to resemble sun bleached parts. Fine sandpaper was carefully used for some abrasion effects.
I like the result now and will wait for a day or two and decide then, if I find something is left out. Weathering has to be logical and well believable distributed, where it helps to lean back and evaluate a bit.
The results show better to the real eye than on the photos, but I will show some anyway.

 

P1000139.JPG.5476ca31844673f2b25d4cca6ff00195.JPG

 

P1000140.JPG.4c3a4e044a9aa167c05db24e00eedfce.JPG

 

P1000143.JPG.ef5918f5756e8e85b3b79c47d2741eea.JPG

 

P1000144.JPG.70dade05bdc20cbbafc96b98a6666a76.JPG

 

P1000147.JPG.83970964ed479f76075e70648a81ee50.JPG

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, DocRob said:

Some more weathering done. I've seen many corsair builds, where the whingroots were weathered and chipped like hell and the fuselage, nada, not a bit.

It's a common mistake seen on all too many builds.... 

2 hours ago, DocRob said:

I like the result now and will wait for a day or two and decide then, if I find something is left out. Weathering has to be logical and well believable distributed, where it helps to lean back and evaluate a bit.
The results show better to the real eye than on the photos, but I will show some anyway.

I like it too, it's very well thought out and has a scale appearance.... Well done... It's more about the look to the eye and should disappear to the camera the farther you get away from it.... Weathering is artwork and requires a feel for the effect... it's very subtle... You've got the look down, very scale, stunningly beautiful in effect...

 

A well used operational mud bird, the way they usually looked when flying from bombed up and patched dirt strips...

 

Definitely a "Honey I shrunk the Corsair" build...

 

Exquisitely well done brother and thank you for explaining and showing your technique... It's a lot of work to do a used finish on a live bird...

 

You've got it down....

 

A well deserved WELL DONE!!! It's a shame we can't put it in the gallery.... (although it is a ship of sorts {chuckle})

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perfect   weathering   -   it  really   looks  the  part.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Egilman said:

I like it too, it's very well thought out and has a scale appearance.... Well done... It's more about the look to the eye and should disappear to the camera the farther you get away from it.... Weathering is artwork and requires a feel for the effect... it's very subtle... You've got the look down, very scale, stunningly beautiful in effect...

 

A well used operational mud bird, the way they usually looked when flying from bombed up and patched dirt strips...

 

Definitely a "Honey I shrunk the Corsair" build...

 

Exquisitely well done brother and thank you for explaining and showing your technique... It's a lot of work to do a used finish on a live bird...

 

You've got it down....

 

A well deserved WELL DONE!!! It's a shame we can't put it in the gallery.... (although it is a ship of sorts {chuckle})

 

Thank you Egilman, I'm blushing, but am also pleased, you like my efforts. With every build, I have a certain goal in mind and in this case it was all about painting and weathering. I was bored a little about the construction phase and was looking forward to the final stages and to get he looks, like I had them imagined.

 

The airbrushing sequence plan was made long before I even started cutting plastic from the sprues. The finishing weathering touches were developed accordingly. I find it very difficult to give dark coatings a good depth and believable weathering. 


When I start a project, I try to absorb as many informations and pictures as possible to get a feel for the subject. Historical pictures are sometimes difficult to read, with strange color renditions and are often retouched (one of the first uses of airbrushes) . Actual pictures of restored builds are not better, the restauration process altered the appearance of the subject often. 
What helps me, forming a picture is what I call 'enhanced imagination'. I use all these sources, try to evaluate their correctness and analyze where they could fail. Then I add a dose of gathered experience with materials in real live, like how paint flakes, how wear shows on different material, how corrosion effects material,...


When I was young, I made 3D animations on my 486 PC and was always on the hunt to collect surface textures with an early digital camera, to let the 3D Models look realistic. I kept that open mind and 'brain collect' looks of materials and textures, which I visualize, when I start a project.

As you can see, the creative process is more or less finished with the how-to plan and the rest is applied techniques.

 

Thanks again for your encouraging words, as I'm living in a remote spot of the world with no other modelers around and only the forums for bein connected to like minded fellow modelers.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Javlin said:

Getting closer and closer Rob.;)

 

13 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Perfect   weathering   -   it  really   looks  the  part.

 

Muchas gracias, I'm indeed seeing the finish line with this very entertaining build. I will apply a matte coat next and see, if more has to be done. 

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your weathering is superb, Rob. And your explanation of the methods you employ is also. Thank you for sharing your artistry.

Edited by Canute

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/18/2022 at 1:10 PM, Canute said:

Your weathering is superb, Rob. And your explanation of the methods you employ is also. Thank you for sharing your artistry


Thank you Ken, I always try to learn something new with every build and like to share my experiences as much, as I like to read these of fellow modellers, which very often helped me during my builds.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

An hour ago, I almost binned the Corsair. I hate fails and I hate re-dos and after removing a lot of masking material, I almost reached that point, but told myself to lean back and take a deep breath.
What happened, I don't know exactly. I had residues on all the transparent parts, which were masked with the most possible care. No bleedings, but possibly grey misted residues from the lacquer colors and their thinners, which went through the masking material. 
I also masked the radiator openings around the cowlings with blue tack, that went goo and is very hard to remove. It took about an hour to get rid of half of it.

 

P1000156.JPG.0a7e05384891150d072028fa3ff93213.JPG

 

P1000158.JPG.8fcd37852aecd974f292691936b25f17.JPG

 

The good thing, I wear a respirator mask. I don't want to know, what these stuff would have made with my brain without it.
I tried to clean the canopy with a cotton swab and wooden toothpicks and it worked luckily. The greater problem were the other transparent parts, like windscreen, lower fuselage window, and armor glass with gunsight, which were glued in place. I carefully removed them and cleaned them.

Before all these troubles, I matte coated the plane with Tamiya's flat clear lacquer, but it was still too shiny for my taste, maybe semi matte, but not flat. Out with the Pledge after drying, added 30% of Tamiya X Flat clear (never more) and sprayed again.


Now the Corsair looks like this.

 

P1000161.JPG.5a77e20098303316c8042721c58cf22c.JPG

 

P1000162.JPG.7769fe626dd14020e1bd60d75e78fcf4.JPG

 

P1000160.JPG.40fc8ccf3a6cfdc6841a125516d54ef0.JPG

 

To relax a bit, I continued with the undercarriage, which received some washes, followed by iron pigments rubbed on, to get a painted metal feel and finally, I had to re do the pistons, which were chrome taped. The tape is not made to adhere to small diameter parts, as it loosened itself and I had to remove it. Instead, I used my trusty Uschi chrome pigments to let them shine a bit.

The tyres were airbrushed in two different near blacks, one for the flanks and one for the running surface and than pronounced with pigments., which is my usual practice. The wheels are from Eduard and much better than these rubber thingies supplied with the kit.

 

P1000148.JPG.07d0cfd828e728e43e9f8111fe6549fc.JPG

 

P1000149.JPG.a846770f6213f8109a14659c49fe0969.JPG

 

P1000150.JPG.d8cc97b3f75080ac52bf1224a11d7a54.JPG

 

Cheers Rob

 

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...