Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build

[bdgiantman2]

20 hours ago, Chuck said:

Im not sure where you got the idea that doubles were used.............

Thank you for the reply. I could have sworn it was in your blog, but I very well could be thinking of others I follow as well that are bigger ships

[dvm27]

Looks very natural and tidy Chuck. Love the little faux splice over the cascabel. I tried seizing it on each side and found this quite difficult to do and with a much bulkier look.

[druxey]

Only the 36-pounder English guns were single/double blocks for the outhauls. Any below those were single/single tackle.

[Chuck]

Still around....and trying to work on Speedwell while making blocks and rope inventory.   I am going to rig the last cannon on the starboard side...if it kills me.   Then on to the port side.  I replaced the barrels with the 3D printed versions and thus they needed re-rigging again.   But I am back on track...more to come soon.  .055 tan breech line and 5/32" single blocks.  I am going with the boxwood color 3D printed blocks on this model.   

 

Chuck

 

[Tossedman]

Looks great Chuck! What are you using as the pins that hold the wheels onto the axles of your carriages?

 

Cheers,

 

Todd

[Chuck]

Its just a tiny length of black fishing line.   20 lb

 

 

[TBlack]

Boy, I’m glad to see that you have to redo things too. I’m not alone!

[Chuck]

Making the breech ropes.

 

There are many ways to do this.  I have simplified it.  Here is a step by step.   I am using my poly rope so CA glue was used.   

 

Start with a breech rope slightly longer than you will need (.055 tan).  Have four eyebolts with rings at the ready.   Also have whatever line you intend to use for seizing ready.   In my case some Guttermann mara 120 thread that matched my rope color.  Note that I have made a loose granny knot on this.  Or one simple overhand knot but left open and ready to go!!!

 

 

Place one ringbolt on the rope and simply bend it over to form a loop.  Leave the tail a bit longish.  I just squeeze the loose loop as shown below with my fingers.  No helping hands needed.  Then I slip the seizing "open knot" onto the end.   Easy peasy.  Then cinch it tight....

 

 

This is what it looks like.  And yes the seizing needs to be pushed closer to the end of the breech and ringbolt.  No glue as of yet.

 

 

Use a tweezers that you are comfy using for this stuff.   Slide the seizing which is still just a loose overhand knot closer to the end.   It may open a bit.  Thats OK.  Just tighten it again when the seizing is where you want it.  At this stage I place the tiniest bit of CA glue (any glue will work here)  on the knot after tightening it.  Then I use my fingers to brush away any excess so it doesnt make the rope stained or discolored.   Yes you get CA on your fingers.   But the rope stays perfectly clean.   I see folks moaning that CA darkens and stains the rope.  This is nonsense if you wipe most of it away before it dries and you dont use too much to begin with.

 

 

No discoloration....super simple method and no helping hands or wacky jigs yet.

 

 

It may be hard to see in the photo below.   But

I take one loose end of the seizing and pinch it between my fingers and away from the seizing.   I am basically pinching the ringbolt and top of the looped breech line.   See the other loose end hanging off the far side?

 

 

Take that loose end and simply wrap it around the breech two or three times.  I have seen folks wrap like 25 times and make a long seizing.,  This never lays correctly and will look sloppy.  I keep my seizings always very short with at maximum only 3 wraps around.  Then I add a drop of CA to the top of the wrapped seizings.  Just a small drop.   No knotting needed.   I pinch and brush the excess CA away with my fingers to keep it clean without darkening at all.  It will only stain if you douse it with way too much CA.  What  a mess that makes and changes the texture of the rope.  Your fingers get sticky and pull the fibers of the rope etc.  I just dip a toothpick into some CA on a scrap piece of wood and barely touch the seizing.  

 

 

Then using a tiny scissors which I have maybe 5 of.....these are spring loaded micro scissors that are very sharp.   I cut the loose ends of the seizing very close to the breech rope.  You dont want to see any sticking out after cutting.  Sometimes a mall amount of CA on that end and using a tweezers to fold it into the breach rope will solve this issue.   I hate when the cut loose ends stick out.  Cut both loose ends.

 

 

Its nice and neat and no discoloration or staining.  Rope is clean and crisp as it should be.  Note the long "loose" end of the breech rope.

 

 

Time to trim that with a sharp blade.  Trim it close and at an angle.  To keep the end of the cut rope from fraying I sometimes put some CA on the op where I am going to cut it.  Then immediately wipe it away with my fingers again to keep it clean before it dries.   

 

 

The cut end....note the angle of the cut and the clean rope with no fraying or staining.

 

 

Then slide two ringbolts on the breech rope which will be inserted on the gun carriages later.  Take the last one and repeat the process to seize the other end just like we described.

 

 

Only now you should slide the cinched seizing and adjust the length so the overall breech rope is the correct length.   Then just finish it as you did the other side.

 

 

Then I make a simulated fake splice in the center to place on the  cannon or Carronade.  I make sure one of those ring bolts are on each side of the center first.  It is very important.  Then I use my plan for the breech line to find the center.   I use a sharp awl to then pierce the center of the breech rope.   I always use 4 strand breech rope so I can pierce it with two strands on each side.  Then I use some CA to stiffen the splice and keep its shape.   I pinch and brush away the excess before it dries....right away.   It will hold its shape.   No shiny spots or staining or discoloration.

 

 

Finished breech rope.

 

 

 

[TBlack]

Nicely explained

[Chuck]

As I get ready to laser cut chapter 3 parts I figured I would release the 3 plan sheets that will come with it.  These are the last three sheets to complete the hull.   There will be more plan sheets for the rigging but this completes the plans for the hull work for folks that dont plan on rigging her.

 

speedwellsheet3.pdf

speedwellsheet4.pdf

speedwellsheet5.pdf

 

Chuck

[Freebird]

Chuck, I know I'm far off for chapter 3 parts, but when will they be available and cost? TIA!

 

In November I'm going to be recovering from knee surgery so I'll have a lot of time to get back in the shipyard.

 

Best Regards .... Rick

[AnobiumPunctatum]

It's looking great and a really nice description of how to make the beech rope.

[Chuck]

A couple of weeks for chapter 3 parts maybe and they will be about $80 give or take.  But remember you will need to buy the wood package from Joe or mill your own planking strips.  Chapter 3 is basically planking.

 

chuck

[Freebird]

Thanks for the info, Chuck. I already have the wood kit from Joe. Looking forward to getting back in the shipyard.

 

Best Regards …. Rick