AJohnson Posted November 15, 2023 Share #301 Posted November 15, 2023 Well done Alan on reaching this milestone, really impressive looking model! How big will it be in bench area with the cliffs and surrounding land? mtaylor, Old Collingwood, hof00 and 4 others 7 Quote Andrew Current builds:- HM Gun-brig Sparkler - Vanguard (1/64) , HMAV Bounty - Caldercraft (1/64) Completed (Kits):- Vanguard Models (1/64) :- HM Cutter Trial , Nisha - Brixham trawler Caldercraft (1/64) :- HMS Orestes(Mars), HM Cutter Sherbourne Paper Shipwright (1/250) :- TSS Earnslaw, Puffer Starlight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 16, 2023 Author Share #302 Posted November 16, 2023 19 hours ago, mtaylor said: Looks super nice, Alan. Congrats on a major milestone. Thank you very much Mark. There were times I thought it would go back on the shelf in a dark cupboard Alan robert952, mtaylor, AJohnson and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 16, 2023 Author Share #303 Posted November 16, 2023 12 hours ago, CDW said: Spectacular model Alan. I have never seen something like this done until now. It’s sure to be a conversation piece for guests at your home. Thank you very much Craig. Aedes Ars has a wide range of subjects but you see very few builds out there. I suspect a lot get started and fizzle out. The brickwork is seriously repetitive. My Spanish friend who kindly bought this for me in Barcelona and paid an enormous shipping fee to the US thought it would be a restful weekend project - like Lego! The other problem for detail modellers is that relative to the real thing the blocks are oversize for scale and there are generally simplifications. Having said that it does make a very impressive model that is instantly recognizable as the subject. It will be a while before I feel the need to attempt another one Alan Jack12477, Egilman, Old Collingwood and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 16, 2023 Author Share #304 Posted November 16, 2023 11 hours ago, AJohnson said: Well done Alan on reaching this milestone, really impressive looking model! How big will it be in bench area with the cliffs and surrounding land? Thank you very much Andrew. Next up is painting some of the little 10mm figures. Lets see how good the eye surgery was! The base is 21 inches by 26 inches. I haven't a clue where its going to go. I have a deep shelf in the lounge currently occupied by one of the cats beds. I may have to negotiate with them. Alan robert952, hof00, Egilman and 4 others 3 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted November 16, 2023 Share #305 Posted November 16, 2023 3 hours ago, king derelict said: I have a deep shelf in the lounge currently occupied by one of the cats beds. I may have to negotiate with them. Alan Good luck with that. Trying to outstubborn a cat is impossible. robert952, AJohnson, Egilman and 4 others 3 4 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 21, 2023 Author Share #306 Posted November 21, 2023 The crenellations were added after a bit of a mental debate and a lot of staring at pictures of the real thing. Its a reasonable balance between the scale and working with the stone blocks. A lot of sanding and then filling and then more sanding but this morning I decided I was happy with where I had got to. I think i could finesse myself into an endless loop of tidying. Especially as you start causing other problems if you overwork things. So I brushed on a coat of matte varnish as a sealant. IT locks up the mortar in the cracks and generally seals things. It also has the happy effect of bringing out the colour of the blocks and improving the definition of the separate pieces. I dusted off the base and put together the components of the castle. I'm not sure if this is a motivational image (we have come a long way) or a depressing one (a lot still to do. Actually there are a lot of different things to do now that the blockwork is finished The card pillars seem to support the weight of the main towers but I'm thinking of adding some extra supports too I have decided to add lights to the bases of the semi-circular outer towers. A light needed to added to the keep too. I have a bunch of miniatures to paint. Groundwork on the main towers The big one is deciding how to build up the landscape. I'm currently leaning towards building up the basic shape with extruded foam pieces and then final shaping them with Sculptamold or similar. I'll add plaster cliffs and rocks as I build up the Sculptamold. The photos of the real thing show a more complex landscape than Aedes Ars does so I need to decide how far to go with it. There are some nice rock pinnacles in the real landscape that I fancy trying, probably a core of foam and faced with plaster. Thanks for looking in and all the likes and comments. A change of pace moving forwards. Alan Egilman, realworkingsailor, Old Collingwood and 11 others 11 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDW Posted November 21, 2023 Share #307 Posted November 21, 2023 Beautiful, Alan. How much do you estimate this castle will weigh once it's all finished? What are the finished dimensions of it? AJohnson, mtaylor, Canute and 3 others 6 Quote Completed Projects: USS Fletcher 1:144 Scharnhorst 1:350 USS Independence LCS-2 1:350 1:32 J7W1 Shinden Interceptor/Fighter Fairey Swordfish Mk. II 1:48 Harbor Tug Box Scale Albatros D.V 1:32 Ala-Kart 1:25 Ferrari 250 GT California Spyder 1:24 S-100 Schnellboot 1:72 Mercury Capsule and Atlas Booster BR-52 Steam Locomotive 1:35 Triumph 3 HW Motorcycle 1:9 Scale F-16XL-2 Experimental Fighter Bomber 1:48 Rafale 1:48 F-15E Strike Eagle 1:48 Petlyakov PE-2 Soviet Dive Bomber 1:48 TBM3 Avenger 1:32 1931 Cadillac 1:25 Scammell Pioneer SV2S Heavy Breakdown Tractor 1:35 M-50 Israeli Sherman 1:35 Military Wrecker 1:32 Delahaye 135 1:24 Toyota Sard Supra GT 1:24 Enzo Ferrari 1:24 1970 Baldwin Motion Camaro 1:25 1966 Ford Galaxie 500 Stock Car 1:25 American LaFrance Eagle Fire Pumper 1:25 1940 Ford Standard Coupe 1:25 VolksWagen Dragster/Dune Buggy/Street Rod 1:25 Kawasaki Ninja H2 Carbon 1:12 Porsche GT-1 Evo 1:24 Scharnhorst 1940 1:700 IJN Akitsushima Seaplane Tender 1:700 HMS Hood 1941 1:700 Prinz Eugen 1942 1:700 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted November 21, 2023 Share #308 Posted November 21, 2023 That is looking Superb Alan - just think for a minute - you have built it brick by brick, its a credit to all your hard work with a project that could have driven anyone up the wall. I think the idea to support the main block is a very good idea as it wont been seen. Loving this build mate. OC. mtaylor, Jack12477, AJohnson and 3 others 6 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 23, 2023 Author Share #309 Posted November 23, 2023 On 11/20/2023 at 8:11 PM, CDW said: Beautiful, Alan. How much do you estimate this castle will weigh once it's all finished? What are the finished dimensions of it? Thank you very much Craig. The base is about 21 x 26 inches and it’s going to be about 16 inches high. It did belatedly occur to me that I should have weighed the kit in the box. Amazon says the kit weighs 11 lbs. Add a piece of 3/4 inch plywood as the base and an amount of plaster. Probably 20 lbs? Alan Canute, AJohnson, Egilman and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 23, 2023 Author Share #310 Posted November 23, 2023 On 11/20/2023 at 10:14 PM, Old Collingwood said: That is looking Superb Alan - just think for a minute - you have built it brick by brick, its a credit to all your hard work with a project that could have driven anyone up the wall. I think the idea to support the main block is a very good idea as it wont been seen. Loving this build mate. OC. Thank you very much OC. The brushing on of the matte coat is a magical moment when the color comes out and it all suddenly looks so much better. Ive cut some blocks of extruded foam to add to the cardboard supports alan Waitoa, AJohnson, Egilman and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 25, 2023 Author Share #311 Posted November 25, 2023 Putting the built elements together gave me a bit of a pause for thought. All that to be filled in? I think its a case of eating the elephant - one spoonful at a time. So I added some foam blocks to the cardboard supports for the tower. That has the happy advantage of providing a much better gluing area as well as more structural support. I added lights to the base of the outer towers and to the keep. I'm now experimenting with the ground cover in the towers. I had originally thought of a thin skim of coloured plaster with some sort of texture added but I was a little worried about it soaking and distorting the cardboard base and also cracking. Somewhere in my browsing I found yet another handy MIG product. This is an acrylic based product that has a gritty texture and comes in a variety of colours to simulate sand, clay, concrete and more. The MIG website shows it being brushed or spread on a variety of bases and looked pretty controllable (you can even mask it). Its supposed to be a mix of adhesive, pigment and texture and I suspect is something that you could make yourself given a bit of motivation So I tried some in one of the small courtyards and it would not stick to the cardboard base. I eventually got it to spread by diluting it with matte medium but it was a bit of a fight. I backed off to experiment a bit (should have done that first). I wondered if it was the slight shine on the cardboard that was the problem so I coated a trial piece with gesso. Let it dry and it made no difference. Stuck to the brush, stuck to the spatula and just stirred around on the base. For the next trials I painted a base coat of craft acrylics in brown and buff and then worked a diluted (water this time) mix over the top of it. The buff base works I think. I can work the texture to blend in the bases of the figures. So I think its a better option than the plaster but it is not behaving as MIG demonstrates. If anyone has used this stuff and can see what I'm doing wrong please let me know. As a relief from the fight with this texture stuff I selected a number of figures and gave then a coat of Mr Metal Primer. I then added a thin coat of gray acrylic primer mainly so I could see the details of the figure better. The initial painting has started and has a way to go!. Thanks for looking in, for the likes and comments Alan realworkingsailor, FriedClams, Jack12477 and 7 others 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted November 25, 2023 Share #312 Posted November 25, 2023 Alan, is this for the built up areas of terrain where its quite a slope or the more flatter areas inside the curtain wall? Could you not use some trim able sponge of foam that you could trim to shape - they type model scenery builders use, if its for the inner areas - if there are some raised areas to be built up, couldn't foam sponge again be used and trimmed to size and shape. For the surface - stones - dirt - grass etc you can get these types of spray glues (I have used them on my dio to fix down the grass sheet that had a kind of cardboard underneath) https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/warworldscenics/Glues/_i.html?store_cat=41576272016 They also do all sorts of scenery products. OC. mtaylor, AJohnson, Canute and 1 other 4 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted November 25, 2023 Share #313 Posted November 25, 2023 (edited) Whenever I was doing a mountainous terrain, I always affixed a wire screen over the cardboard/foam base shape, same technique as plastering a wall or stucco applied to a brickface on an outside wall... (chicken wire works well and is what holds the plaster to the base shape) With that, the plastering comes easy, you mix it the consistency of thick caking mud and the first coat just covers the screen... It's to fill in the spaces between the screen and base material.. Allow it to fully harden... (couple of days, don't worry about the finish texture this is just the first coat) Any cracking should take place here and is easily filled in by the next coats of plaster... The second coat should be a slight bit thinner than the initial mud coat, a gooey mud that will stand in piles... with this you skim the previous surface smoothing out the shapes to what you envisioned and filling in any gaps or cracks... If your going to use any rock face molds, this is where you attach them using the gooey plaster as the glue in the same technique as tiling a wall or floor.... When it is completely dry, then you think about texturing, you will have a completely rough matte surface, in your basic finished shapes, that will take any paint or texture application you might have a desire to try directly on it's surface using simple water glues or even the thinned paint itself.... Brush it on or spray it on... Yes it will soak into the plaster, this is what you want for good sound adhesion and color depth.... I would suggest making a small mountainous shape out of cardboard or foam, cover it with chicken wire and try it as an experiment, make yourself a little rocky mountain.... (maybe add a few trees and bushes in the cracks and crannies along the way) It's really easy... It is so easy, that once you have done it you will never forget how.... Edited November 25, 2023 by Egilman robert952, Old Collingwood, Waitoa and 4 others 7 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack12477 Posted November 25, 2023 Share #314 Posted November 25, 2023 2 minutes ago, Egilman said: would suggest making a small mountainous shape out of cardboard or foam, cover it with chicken wire and try it as an experiment, make yourself a little rocky mountain.... (maybe add a few trees and bushes in the cracks and crannies along the way) It's really easy. I would use fine mesh nylon/plastic window screening material, lighter and easier to work than wire. Is this a flat or relatively flat area you're trying to texture ? If it is, use the same technique I used in my tank dioramas (see links in my signature). mtaylor, Canute, AJohnson and 3 others 6 Quote Jack "No one is as smart as all of us" - Is ón cheann a thagann an cheird The craft comes from the head --------------------------------------------- Current build: US Constellation Non-ship builds: USCG UH-65A Dolphin M16 Multi-gun motor carriage diorama M4A3 Sherman Tanks dioramas 1936-1939 Mercedes Benz 540K 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II JSDF Light Armor Vehicle Figures: The Last Bridge: Raider Reaper Edge of Universe: Ianis The Last Bridge: Vadim with cart Completed build log(s): 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne, Willie L Bennett 1888 50 ft Gaff-rigged Ice Yacht Scratch Build The Sullivans (DD 537) Liberty Ship SS John W Brown USS England (DE 635), Artesania Latina Titanic Lifeboat Gallery: Swift , Armed Virginia Sloop, Santisima Trinidad Captain's Launch , 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne Other: Rhinebeck Aerodrome Tour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted November 25, 2023 Share #315 Posted November 25, 2023 1 minute ago, Jack12477 said: Is this a flat or relatively flat area you're trying to texture ? Some of it is, some of it is steep/vertical rockface brother, he really needs a combination of both techniques.... Yes, Great suggestion, Nylon window screen is better than chicken wire... mtaylor, Jack12477, Canute and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack12477 Posted November 25, 2023 Share #316 Posted November 25, 2023 (edited) I would recommend Hydrocal plaster, it's lightweight but extremely strong, been used by Model Railroaders for decades to make lightweight hard shell scenery. See my discussion here.. Also school kids white glue, Elmer's is one brand, diluted 50-50, plus toilet paper or Kleenex style tissue can be used to make pathways, roads, trails, etc. Edited November 25, 2023 by Jack12477 Canute, robert952, Egilman and 3 others 6 Quote Jack "No one is as smart as all of us" - Is ón cheann a thagann an cheird The craft comes from the head --------------------------------------------- Current build: US Constellation Non-ship builds: USCG UH-65A Dolphin M16 Multi-gun motor carriage diorama M4A3 Sherman Tanks dioramas 1936-1939 Mercedes Benz 540K 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II JSDF Light Armor Vehicle Figures: The Last Bridge: Raider Reaper Edge of Universe: Ianis The Last Bridge: Vadim with cart Completed build log(s): 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne, Willie L Bennett 1888 50 ft Gaff-rigged Ice Yacht Scratch Build The Sullivans (DD 537) Liberty Ship SS John W Brown USS England (DE 635), Artesania Latina Titanic Lifeboat Gallery: Swift , Armed Virginia Sloop, Santisima Trinidad Captain's Launch , 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne Other: Rhinebeck Aerodrome Tour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canute Posted November 25, 2023 Share #317 Posted November 25, 2023 Plaster impregnated gauze is another technique. It's the stuff doctors use to apply a cast. May have to hold it in place until is starts to set for vertical locations. You know it's setting when it gets warm.😉 Egilman, AJohnson, Jack12477 and 4 others 7 Quote Ken Started: MS Bounty Longboat, On Hold: Heinkel USS Choctaw paper Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1 Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section Member Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 28, 2023 Author Share #318 Posted November 28, 2023 On 11/24/2023 at 8:45 PM, Old Collingwood said: Could you not use some trim able sponge of foam that you could trim to shape - they type model scenery builders use, if its for the inner areas - if there are some raised areas to be built up, couldn't foam sponge again be used and trimmed to size and shape. Thank you for the suggestions OC. I have some large blocks of extruded foam that was packing for some electronic thing that I have been saving with the landscaping in mind. My previous efforts with this stuff was complicated by the need to make deep cuts and my sharp knives didn't have the reach. Even sneaking a good kitchen knife didn't really do it. I just ordered a cheap hot wire cutter which I think might help. Alan Canute, Jack12477, mtaylor and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 28, 2023 Author Share #319 Posted November 28, 2023 On 11/24/2023 at 9:30 PM, Egilman said: Whenever I was doing a mountainous terrain, I always affixed a wire screen over the cardboard/foam base shape, same technique as plastering a wall or stucco applied to a brickface on an outside wall... (chicken wire works well and is what holds the plaster to the base shape) With that, the plastering comes easy, you mix it the consistency of thick caking mud and the first coat just covers the screen... It's to fill in the spaces between the screen and base material.. Allow it to fully harden... (couple of days, don't worry about the finish texture this is just the first coat) Any cracking should take place here and is easily filled in by the next coats of plaster... Thank you EG. As always great advice. I'm thinking this might be the best solution for the steep sections. I suspect the solution may well be a combination of techniques using them in the appropriate areas. I think some experimenting on something expendable is a definite need before going for the real thing. Too much time invested in that brickwork Thanks again Alam Canute, Egilman, AJohnson and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 28, 2023 Author Share #320 Posted November 28, 2023 On 11/25/2023 at 7:21 AM, Jack12477 said: I would recommend Hydrocal plaster, it's lightweight but extremely strong, been used by Model Railroaders for decades to make lightweight hard shell scenery. See my discussion here.. Thanks Jack. I ordered some Hydrocal. On 11/24/2023 at 9:37 PM, Jack12477 said: would use fine mesh nylon/plastic window screening material, lighter and easier to work than wire. I have a roll of plastic screening mesh in the garage left over from replacing screens on the windows. Time to experiment. Thanks again. Some great suggestions Alan Old Collingwood, mtaylor, Canute and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 28, 2023 Author Share #321 Posted November 28, 2023 On 11/25/2023 at 7:38 AM, Canute said: Plaster impregnated gauze is another technique. It's the stuff doctors use to apply a cast. May have to hold it in place until is starts to set for vertical locations. You know it's setting when it gets warm.😉 Thank you Ken. I just ordered some plaster bandages. Very helpful suggestion. I remember the warm bit when I broke my arm. At least there won't be itching this time Alan Egilman, Canute, Old Collingwood and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 28, 2023 Author Share #322 Posted November 28, 2023 Thank you @Old Collingwood, @Canute and @Egilman for some really helpful suggestions. I have screen mesh, plaster, extruded foam in sheets and blocks. I have ordered Hydrocal, plaster bandages and a hot wire foam cutter. Let the fun begin. I just cleaned the dust from the blocks out of the garage so I'm all ready for a new mess. I have been working on a selection of figures to add a bit of scale to the towers For the figures in slashed doublets and breeches I used a base yellow and dry brushed the red on top. I think its effective for the size of the figures. These figures are 10mm tall so there are limits - at least for me. I did try for moustaches and beards with varying degrees of success. I still need to touch up the details and correct some overpainting. I also need to decide on a colour for the shields> I was going for yellow but yellow seems to be a horrible paint to get good coverage with so maybe blue. SSerious medievalists and figure painters are probably running screaming for the hills. So far I am happy with some, less so with others but I will try to refine them. I am wondering whether to try a dark wash over the details but I'm concerned that the figures are so small it will overwhelm the paint. Any thoughts? There will be a bit of a break for a few weeks. I am working tomorrow and on Friday flying to Manchester UK to start a three week vacation. Starting with seeing a cousin in North Wales then flying to Copenhagen and then train to Berlin to visit more friends. Train to Arnhem and then Amsterdam before returning to the UK to spend a week with my 98 year old dad. It sounds like I can leave the flip flops and board shorts at home and think about some cold weather gear. Thanks for looking in and thank you for all the support and helpful comments Alan Waitoa, Canute, AJohnson and 6 others 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted November 28, 2023 Share #323 Posted November 28, 2023 Firstly - have a Great vacation (yes rap up warm and dry). Now for your figures - they are looking really good especially considering the scale 10mm I would try a light wash over with either of the Army Painter Acrylic washes or even the Citadel Shade Agrax Earthshade, they are so thin that they can be brushed over and any areas of excess can just be brushed off with a clean brush - you will be supprissed how well they bring out the details. OC. mtaylor, AJohnson, Jack12477 and 2 others 5 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJohnson Posted November 28, 2023 Share #324 Posted November 28, 2023 Figures are looking great Alan, have a great vacation, yeah it’s a bit colder here atm, but nothing compared to continental winter weather! mtaylor, Canute, Egilman and 1 other 4 Quote Andrew Current builds:- HM Gun-brig Sparkler - Vanguard (1/64) , HMAV Bounty - Caldercraft (1/64) Completed (Kits):- Vanguard Models (1/64) :- HM Cutter Trial , Nisha - Brixham trawler Caldercraft (1/64) :- HMS Orestes(Mars), HM Cutter Sherbourne Paper Shipwright (1/250) :- TSS Earnslaw, Puffer Starlight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack12477 Posted November 28, 2023 Share #325 Posted November 28, 2023 Enjoy your vacation Egilman, Old Collingwood, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote Jack "No one is as smart as all of us" - Is ón cheann a thagann an cheird The craft comes from the head --------------------------------------------- Current build: US Constellation Non-ship builds: USCG UH-65A Dolphin M16 Multi-gun motor carriage diorama M4A3 Sherman Tanks dioramas 1936-1939 Mercedes Benz 540K 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II JSDF Light Armor Vehicle Figures: The Last Bridge: Raider Reaper Edge of Universe: Ianis The Last Bridge: Vadim with cart Completed build log(s): 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne, Willie L Bennett 1888 50 ft Gaff-rigged Ice Yacht Scratch Build The Sullivans (DD 537) Liberty Ship SS John W Brown USS England (DE 635), Artesania Latina Titanic Lifeboat Gallery: Swift , Armed Virginia Sloop, Santisima Trinidad Captain's Launch , 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne Other: Rhinebeck Aerodrome Tour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 28, 2023 Author Share #326 Posted November 28, 2023 15 hours ago, Old Collingwood said: Firstly - have a Great vacation (yes rap up warm and dry). Now for your figures - they are looking really good especially considering the scale 10mm I would try a light wash over with either of the Army Painter Acrylic washes or even the Citadel Shade Agrax Earthshade, they are so thin that they can be brushed over and any areas of excess can just be brushed off with a clean brush - you will be supprissed how well they bring out the details. OC. Thank you very much OC. I have the Agrax Earthshade so I will give it a try on one of the figures and see what we get. I am very impressed with the Pendraken figures, They have packed a lot of detail into such small figures and with the Mr Metal Primer I have been surprised at how well the paint has taken (apart from the yellow) Looking forward to the holiday; catching up with a lot of friends and family at a special time of year. Alan Canute, mtaylor, AJohnson and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 28, 2023 Author Share #327 Posted November 28, 2023 9 hours ago, AJohnson said: Figures are looking great Alan, have a great vacation, yeah it’s a bit colder here atm, but nothing compared to continental winter weather! Thank you Andrew I remember the east wind in Berlin this time last year. It cut through clothing like a knife. My dad is all fired up to visit the National Arboretum so I'm hoping for a decent there Alan AJohnson, Egilman, Old Collingwood and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted November 28, 2023 Author Share #328 Posted November 28, 2023 1 hour ago, Jack12477 said: Enjoy your vacation Thank you Jack I'm looking forward to it. Alan Jack12477, Canute, Old Collingwood and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canute Posted November 30, 2023 Share #329 Posted November 30, 2023 Enjoy your vacation, Alan. This is a great time of year with the Christmas markets. Be safe. AJohnson, mtaylor, Egilman and 2 others 5 Quote Ken Started: MS Bounty Longboat, On Hold: Heinkel USS Choctaw paper Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1 Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section Member Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted December 16, 2023 Author Share #330 Posted December 16, 2023 I’m still out there. I’m sitting in front of the fire at my cousins cottage in North Wales and thinking about a glass of wine. Christmas markets in Berlin and Copenhagen were great and snow in Berlin made it look festive The Arnhem Airborne museum is spectacularly good. The photos are on my camera unfortunately but it’s definitely worth seeing Took my dad to the National Arboretum to make his yearly pilgrimage to the Parachute Regiment memorial They have a nice Pegasus bridge monument now Also new is the HMS Sheffield memorial, the Shiny Sheff I’m looking forward to catching up on logs when I get home. I’m getting badly behind but as usual the work is uniformly high standard. I should be home late on Tuesday. My cats have probably gone feral. Best wishes everyone alan realworkingsailor, Egilman, Jack12477 and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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