HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Twelve

 

Headworks (Part Two)

With the Head timbers in place the Lower rail can be fitted. These are the ones that run along the slots in the Head timbers to join the Hair bracket at the fore end and the Ekeing rail aft.

The kit blurb indicates fitting the decorative cover panels to the head timbers and slotting the rail through them before fitting to the hull.

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I prefer to fit the rails on the model and then add the covers. I temporarily fitted the first cover to help hold the rail during positioning.

The provided slots do err on the generous side, presumably to allow trouble free access. Some remedial work will be required post fitting.

Looking at the manual photos the rail terminates on the Waist rail that runs between the gunports up to the bow. The plans show the rail meeting the ekeing rail which runs just below the termination of the Waist rail.

It is almost inevitable to get some variation in position due to the vagaries of individual builds, but with the head timbers in place (not glued) I can test the rail and see how it all pans out.

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Fitting the Lower rails is quite a tricky operation, these are delicate parts and I managed to break the tip off one, fortunately the repair held.

 

Cathead completion

This involves adding the caps and decorative motif and the cleat for the Cathead stopper.

The decorative motif on the cap is a star design neatly laser cut.

 

Ekeing rail

This runs from beneath the Cathead to meet the Lower rail just below the previously fitted Waist rail, or in my particular case at the lower edge of the waist rail.

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It is a composite of two parts;

(inner214) and outer (212/213) I have confirmed with Chris that the inner (214) is a ‘spare’ but could be used to bulk out the Ekeing rail if desired.

I believe it did taper in thickness as it runs towards the Lower rail, so I opted to use it, looks better to my eye.

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As an aside, David Steel The elements and practice of Naval Artchitecture 1812) is rather scathing about the Ekeing rail.

 

The Ekeing rail at the low part of the supporter under the Cathead is only to continue the shape and fashion of that part, being of no other service.

We make this remark because if the supporter was stopd short without an Ekeing, it would be better, as it causes the side timbers to rot, and it commonly appears fair to the eye in but one direction.

 

Not many years later and by the time of the Leda class frigate Trincomalee the Ekeing seems to have been dispensed with.

Onto the delights of the Cathead supporter.

 

B.E.

05/12/2023

 

 

[davyboy]

Coming along nicely Maurice,have fun with the Cathead supporter.

 

Dave 

Edited December 5, 2023 by davyboy

[allanyed]

I have always done the rails, then the head timbers and it is a royal pain in the neck.  I will have to give your route a try on the next one.😀

Allan

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Dave, I’m not sure having fun is the right term – grim determination more likely.😬

 

@ Allan -

 The approach is probably different on a scratch build, you need all the rails etc in order to determine the head timbers. With Indy this has already been determined, but even so it is a good idea not to commit to glue too soon in the process. 🤔

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and thirteen

 

Headworks (Part Three)

One of the trickiest parts to get right is the Cathead supporter and I did struggle to get the necessary curve to fay into the Ekeing rail even with Chris’s unique, as far as I know, jig which goes a long way towards resolving the problem of the complex curves involved.  

 

Ideally the top of the supporter should be square and centred beneath the Cathead, and curve down to follow exactly the curve of the Ekeing rail.

My initial attempts resulted in a mismatch between the two. The problem could be addressed to some extent by bevelling the top of the supporter but there was still an obvious  misalignment.

 

I scrapped my first attempts and I re-made the supports using a lamination of three pieces of 1mm stuff.

Even so it took a couple of re- shapings in the jig to get a result that just about passed muster.

 

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The Cathead supporter/ekeing rail arrangement on the kit is a simplification.

The Supporter in reality, was a separate piece to the ekeing rail and should be fastened close to the hull, with the ekeing fayed into its lower end.

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Once fitted, even tho’ superficially it may look ok, blind man on a galloping horse comes to mind, I was not happy with the result.

 

The main issue is that the supporter knee is glued to the Ekeing rather than the hull, resulting in a gap between hull and rail where the Ekeing passes over the upper wale and waist rails, which throw it away from the hull.

 

The manual only indicates removing a small section of rail directly beneath the cathead, and the result is that the supporter is then obviously attached to the rail rather than the hull and not attached to the hull at all at the lower extreme.

 

This made little sense and irritated my eye each time I looked at it.

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I needed a re-think, so all my work of the past few days was undone.

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Fortunately, the supporter and rail came away without breakage.

 

A contributing factor is that the Ekeing runs atop and almost parallel with the Waist rail rather than cutting it at a more acute angle to run below it as indicated on the plans (both kit and official)

 

My aim is to get the supporter to look as if it is fastened directly to the hull, and to achieve this it is necessary to fine down the waist rail to allow the supporter to sit flush with the hull. The aft side of the supporter is also built up to compensate for the gap between Upper rails and Waist rails.

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This modification is still a bit of a fudge but I can now live with it.

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1588b

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There’s a lot of work left to do on the finish, and getting clean lines on the mouldings is also proving a challenge.

 

I need to wait for better light for detail painting, the light levels in the UK are very poor at present.

 

The Bow saga goes on…..

 

B.E.

07/12/2023

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Fourteen

 

Headworks (Part Four)

The next stage is fettling and dry fitting the gratings over the head timbers.

This piece is delicate and needs careful handling, I took the precaution of making a template to get the profile before applying it to the actual part.

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….but I still managed to split it at the weak points during the necessary sanding to fit.

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With the aft grating fixed the forward section is added.

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The fourth timberhead (nearest the bow) is left as is in the kit scheme but there would be a cross timber atop or aft of this known as the cross-piece of the head, very simple to add.

 

There is also an open space between the third and fourth timber heads which looks unfinished to my eye.

A check around indicates that there should be carlings running between the two, which are added using some 0.8mmx1mm pear strip.

These are also simply added.

 

The kit contains the makings for the seats of easement for which the hole looked a tad large to my eye, but on checking such details out, Chris has it spot on.

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I considered that a ship the size of Indy would have had an extra set of seats fitted, which I intend to add. (I did the same on Sphinx)

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I persuaded my Skipper from the Zulu Muirneag to try them our for size, it did cost me a dram.😉

 

Slàinte,

B.E.

08/12/2023

 

[glbarlow]

I understand the grim determination that comes as we get into these details with their required micro adjustments. I have to remind myself on occasion that this is fun. 

[Darius359au]

6 hours ago, glbarlow said:

I understand the grim determination that comes as we get into these details with their required micro adjustments. I have to remind myself on occasion that this is fun. 

My sons remind me of this everytime they see some of parts I build either on my Armour models or Ship models ,their most common reaction is "You do this for fun😳"🤣

@Blue Ensign your work is truely beautiful! ,I would love to build the Vanguard Indy one day but I really don't think I could do her justice!

Edited December 8, 2023 by Darius359au

[Blue Ensign]

It doesn’t feel much like fun for me at present but we go thro’ the full gambit of emotions with model building.

The excitement of a new project, the boredom of doing repetitive routine elements, the frustration when things go wrong, the elation when things go right, the relief when a tricky element is successfully completed, and the pleasure of a project completed to satisfaction.

For me model building is a deeply absorbing activity, the research, the interaction with fellow builders on MSW, the striving for improvement, I couldn’t be without it in my life. ☺️

 

@ Darius – Thank you, - at present I don’t think I’m doing her justice! but that will pass.🤞

 

Regards,

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Fifteen

Main Rails

These are the most prominent rail of the Headworks and require careful positioning.

The laser cut parts are very nicely done and contain extra length. Accurate trimming is required for a good fit, I removed 11mm from the fore end.

2957

The Main rail should look elegant and I fined down the forward end where it meets the Hair bracket. I also tapered it on the inside as it runs towards the bow.

A gentle heat bend was applied to the forward end, forward of the Capsquare, to provide a less stressed fit to the hair Bracket.

2959

A slightly risky business but the bend is very shallow, not much is required.

 

To finish these Pearwood parts, Vallejo Ochre Brown is used for the first coats, followed by my wood dye mix which produces a close match to the Boxwood varnish finish.

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The panel detail is black ink.

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Dry fitting the rails.

 

As I played around with these rails I noticed that the Capsquare for the boomkins looked close by the seats of ease. This may cause issues with the Boomkin fitting.

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Plan sheet 9 shows the Capsquares sitting aft of the seats of ease which would allow a clear line of fitting.

All the build photos I’ve seen seem to show the position adjacent to the seats of ease, but no one has reached the stage of fitting Boomkins yet.

It will be interesting to see how the other members of the ‘Class of ’23 get on with this fitting.

 

I hope to get the rails fixed in position today but I suspect it may take a while.

 

B.E.

10/12/2023

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Loving your work and attention to detail, beautiful work, as always.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Glenn, have you  tried the fit of of your Boomkins yet?

 

B.E.

[ECK]

I usually do not fit the boomkins until the end when I have to rig them as more often than not I accidentally break them off.

[Blue Ensign]

Sometimes it is useful to dry test well in advance of  actual fitting to avoid any issues that may arise later on.

On my build I can see that the angle of the Capsquare will need to be adjusted, and possibly the seats of ease profile modified.

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

Thank you Glenn, have you  tried the fit of of your Boomkins yet?

 

B.E.

I have not try fitting them as yet, but will have a look once I've finished with the initial fitting of the foremast lower shrouds.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Sixteen

 

Completing the Headworks

Gluing the Main rails in place is always a critical business.

2971

I fitted the Starboard side first which went on without issue, the pieces held using pva and sectioning clips.

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I took the precaution of marking the level above the capping rail on the Port side rail to assist fitting.

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Always a relief once this part is completed.

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I am pleased to see that the level looks good athwartships.

 

Not part of the kit is the Saddle.

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This is a section of timber triangular in shape, that spans the Main rails where they converge at the back of the head and effectively ties them together.

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For the convenience of the crew I have added two additional seats of ease positioned at the aft end of the gratings adjacent to the False Rail.

In the Indy kit the False rail is an integral part of the Main Rail, and contains the Capsquare for the Boomkin.

 

The Headwork construction battle is now over, but I still need to do some tidying up and redo’s on the paintwork, but that I can do at my leisure.

 

B.E.

11/12/2023

 

 

 

[hollowneck]

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

I fitted the Starboard side first which went on without issue, the pieces held using pva and sectioning clips.

Indeed, B.E. headrails can be an unruly hairy business. Your solutions and skilled efforts are always Indefatigable.

Edited December 11, 2023 by hollowneck
Joke addition...

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and seventeen

Timberheads

Not much to say about these, a little chamfering around the tops and ensuring that those flanking the gunports are vertical, and the others line-up.

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The much larger tops of the two knightheads or Bollards either side of the Bowsprit opening are the tricky ones.

3011

These need to be positioned accurately and appear vertical from all angles.

3009

The final addition are the snatch blocks for the Cat tackle. I added a sheave for these, cut from a slice of 3mm ø dowel.

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A little light sanding, a re-coat and they should be good to go.

 

B.E.

13/12/2023

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and eighteen

 

Thoughts about the Figure

 This seems a good time to check out the Figure.

 

The resin warrior version provided by Chris is a mini work of art, beautifully detailed and styled.

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We don’t know what Figure ‘Indy’ actually had, but the choice of a Bronze age Greek Warrior fits perfectly.

 

During the late 18thc it was practice to paint Figures in natural colours, rather garish looking in some cases.

I have been pondering how to finish the figure, and I’ve concerns that too bright a finish may clash with the more muted tones of my build.

 

I have several books on the subject, but contemporary ship models of this period with ‘painted’ figures are hard to find.

A lot of Navy board models are without figures, and for those that have them they are usually either gilded or varnished.

 

For ‘Indy’ I want to use more muted tones with reduced contrast between the shades.

How that will turn out I’ve no idea at this point, but I first need to wash and prime the figure.

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I use Vallejo Surface primer which shows up the detail beautifully.

 

Before I start painting, I create a colour chart of the likely shades I will use.

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These are painted over the primer coat so I can determine the coverage required.

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Incidentally, these little lidded 3.5ml pots obtained from Amazon are ideal for paint mixing small quantities and keep it fresh for a long time.

I painted the model in life colours but aimed for a soft tone. Vallejo paints were used throughout.

 

This is the result.

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I think the colours tone in very well, and the figure sets off the model beautifully.

 

I am particularly pleased with the Bronze used on the metal work, and the Red for the cloak which has a dark wine colour.

The reinforced linen of the Pteruges (skirt) were painted with Dark sand, and the tassels in Ivory.

For skin tones I opted for Ochre brown with a spot of Burnt Umber added.

The shield is Hull Red with the embossed hub and rim in Bronze.

                                                                         

I had intended to apply washes and varnishes, but I’m now thinking I should quit while I’m ahead.

It is after all a figurehead on a ship not a real-life depiction as may be created for a specific model figure.

 

A pleasant diversion from recent activity, but back to the build now.

 

 

B.E.

15/12/2023

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Looks great

[glbarlow]

Exceptional paintwork on your figurehead. 

[Nipper]

That looks superb!  You really have  succeeded in creating a balanced look that complements and enhances your Indy.

Nipper 

[hollowneck]

6 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

I had intended to apply washes and varnishes, but I’m now thinking I should quit while I’m ahead.

Great job, I like the color choices.

There is no need for washes as you've stated but you may want to consider a satin or semi-gloss protective coat.

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers Guys, and thanks for the support with the 'likes'.

 

The figure is now back in the box for safety.

 

B.E.

[Mirabell61]

Hi B.E.,

That gallion figure is a real eyecatcher, wunderbar !

 

Nils

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Nils.👍

 

Post One Hundred and Nineteen.

 

 Back to the blunt end

Time to attend to the unfinished stern.

 I had figured out on the bow area how to finish the Pearwood mouldings and pilasters to be used on the stern.

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Vallejo Ochre Brown over the Pear followed by a coating of the water-based wood stain I used on the Boxwood hull timbers. This gives a fair match to the varnish hull finish.

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The stern is otherwise painted in Vallejo Black/grey.

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When it comes to the frames for the lights I have seen examples of white frames which look quite attractive. However, they would be the only white elements on the model so I am sticking with Ochre Brown.

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The frames are prepared on the fret, priming with Metal prep 4K, followed by two coats of Ochre brown.

 

The trickiest part of this exercise will be fitting the frames without marring the  ‘glass’ with glue smears.

 

Tomorrow’s interesting little exercise. 🫤

 

 

B.E.

18/12/2023

 

 

 

 

 

 

[James H]

On 12/18/2023 at 11:45 AM, Blue Ensign said:

The trickiest part of this exercise will be fitting the frames without marring the  ‘glass’ with glue smears.

I 'glue' the frames over the acrylic windows with Klear floor polish. It's acrylic itself, dries rock hard and is commonly used in plastic modelling for fitting some PE parts. I've been using it for years with no issue. If it gets on the clear pane, then it's no problem.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you, James,

I’m aware of ‘Klear’, or ‘Future’ as it was called last time I used it, beloved of model aircraft builders for canopy fixing and finishing.

 

I’ll certainly give it a go with odourless ca as a back-up.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Twenty

 

Lights and Frames

I always view this job with a degree of trepidation.

I started by using ‘Future’ (now Klear)

Applied with a brush to the glazing surface the frame was placed on top and allowed to set. Once dry a bead of Future was painted around the reverse edge.

 

I had mixed success with this.

 

The Qtr gallery lights were more stubborn and I resorted to applying tiny spots of odourless ca to the back of the frame, and carefully placing the glazing.

3095

I removed the protective covering from the front side, and partly peeled the aft side which I used to hold the glazing for positioning. This ideally needs to be done as a one-shot effort, to reduce the risk of ca spread.

 

I did have to replace the glazing on several lights due to marring, cut from the glazing fret.

 

Fitting the frame/glaze combo by comparison is easy, the merest pass along the edges with a file, and they do indeed ‘pop into place.’

 

I started with the Qtr lights, and once they’re fitted it makes a significant difference to the look. This is Chris’s best Qtr Gallery innovation to date, the seat of ease is clearly visible and with the Gallery door left open the light flows thro’ enhancing the realism.

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3105

Addition of the fluted pillars completes the effect.

 

For the stern I opted to have only two of the sashes open as  per Jim’s prototype build, I thought this gave the  most balanced and aesthetically pleasing effect.

3101

All the stern light glazing pieces were attached to the frames using ‘Future’ prior to fitting. The Upper sash frames were attached to the frames using odourless ca.

1620a

Onto the decoration.

 

B.E.

22/12/2023

 

[davyboy]

Looking very nice indeed Maurice. Top job.

 

Dave