Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

beautiful work Valeriy,

 

I like the reinforcement brackets at the mid-island front area...

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted

Valeriy, Is the originals hull plated and riveted?

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I am well aware of this method, but was always worried, that the edges of the putty may crumble. Automotive (spray) putty is quite strong on the surface, but it is actually a bit crumbly, so as to permit easy sanding.

 

I gather, once painted the edges of the strakes become much stronger?

 

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted

Very good looking result Valeriy,

The hull structured with these "belts" give the model a realistic look

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted
5 hours ago, Valeriy V said:

Yes, undoubtedly, paint helps strengthen the edge.

WOW. Incredible results that you obtained Valeriy.

 

However, I am not sure I would trust the automotive putty (even painted) in such small thickness.

Most definitely, the hull will require a lot of care when manipulated.

 

Yves

Posted
23 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

WOW. Incredible results that you obtained Valeriy.

However, I am not sure I would trust the automotive putty (even painted) in such small thickness.

Most definitely, the hull will require a lot of care when manipulated.

Yves

Yves, no need to worry! :) 
  This method has been tested in practice by more than a dozen ship modellers on floating ship models. ;) 

Posted

Here in the US we call this stuff Bondo.  I have found it to be very durable.  I have a Navy Steam Cutter model that is 35 years old.  I made the cylindrical boiler by casting a blob using a pipe for a mold and then turning the casting on a lathe.  It is still as good as new.

 

The only problem that I have encountered recently is that it sets up so quickly that it would be impossible to spread it carefully.

 

Roger

Posted

I’m not very familiar with ship construction of this period but your work reminds me of all those beautiful builders models in the finest museums. It is a pleasure to watch your build!

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

Posted
5 hours ago, dvm27 said:

I’m not very familiar with ship construction of this period but your work reminds me of all those beautiful builders models in the finest museums. It is a pleasure to watch your build!

Thanks Greg!
  It is these models made at the beginning of the last century that inspire me. :) 

Posted
21 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

Here in the US we call this stuff Bondo

3M developed a UV activated Bondo and it sounded like the cat's meow so I purchased a can and proceeded to use it on filling the body panel on a car I was restoring (I can't remember which one). Once I had the panel filled I sat it out in the sun for the recommended amount of time and it was still soft. I allowed another couple of hours, still soft. I let that stupid panel sit for two days in the sun and it never hardened.  I finally had to dig and scrape every bit of that worthless product off the panel. UV activated Bondo sounds great and might work......if you live on Venus. 

 

 Roger, if you requiring more working time use less hardener. Work with small batches versus one large batch, slow and steady wins the race. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted
49 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Incredible work!

 

Did you just layer up the masking tape to make thickness, and then apply the putty?

 

Yes, GrandpaPhill, that’s right.
  Strips of adhesive tape in 2-3 layers, depending on the required thickness of the putty strip. It must be taken into account that liquid putty has its own amount of shrinkage when drying.

Posted

Valeriy,

thanks for sharing your technique in applying the "putty-belts".  I was`nt familiar with that methode before you showed it. You did a super job and its very inspiring and I asume it mut be a nice job for modelers who have experience and a steady hand with "Gips-Stuckarbeiten" structures. I am wondering if it may be possible to combine the way you do it and the way I usually do my hull metal-plating riveting

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted
11 minutes ago, Mirabell61 said:

Valeriy,

thanks for sharing your technique in applying the "putty-belts".  I was`nt familiar with that methode before you showed it. You did a super job and its very inspiring and I asume it mut be a nice job for modelers who have experience and a steady hand with "Gips-Stuckarbeiten" structures. I am wondering if it may be possible to combine the way you do it and the way I usually do my hull metal-plating riveting

 

Nils

Nils, I think that it is impossible to show the riveting of sheets using this method. Because after the putty has dried, it must be treated with sandpaper. During this operation, all riveting will be destroyed.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...