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SS Blagoev ex-Songa 1921 by Valeriy V - scale 1:100 - Soviet Union


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beautiful work Valeriy,

 

I like the reinforcement brackets at the mid-island front area...

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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Valeriy, Is the originals hull plated and riveted?

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am well aware of this method, but was always worried, that the edges of the putty may crumble. Automotive (spray) putty is quite strong on the surface, but it is actually a bit crumbly, so as to permit easy sanding.

 

I gather, once painted the edges of the strakes become much stronger?

 

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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Very good looking result Valeriy,

The hull structured with these "belts" give the model a realistic look

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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5 hours ago, Valeriy V said:

Yes, undoubtedly, paint helps strengthen the edge.

WOW. Incredible results that you obtained Valeriy.

 

However, I am not sure I would trust the automotive putty (even painted) in such small thickness.

Most definitely, the hull will require a lot of care when manipulated.

 

Yves

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23 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

WOW. Incredible results that you obtained Valeriy.

However, I am not sure I would trust the automotive putty (even painted) in such small thickness.

Most definitely, the hull will require a lot of care when manipulated.

Yves

Yves, no need to worry! :) 
  This method has been tested in practice by more than a dozen ship modellers on floating ship models. ;) 

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Here in the US we call this stuff Bondo.  I have found it to be very durable.  I have a Navy Steam Cutter model that is 35 years old.  I made the cylindrical boiler by casting a blob using a pipe for a mold and then turning the casting on a lathe.  It is still as good as new.

 

The only problem that I have encountered recently is that it sets up so quickly that it would be impossible to spread it carefully.

 

Roger

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I’m not very familiar with ship construction of this period but your work reminds me of all those beautiful builders models in the finest museums. It is a pleasure to watch your build!

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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5 hours ago, dvm27 said:

I’m not very familiar with ship construction of this period but your work reminds me of all those beautiful builders models in the finest museums. It is a pleasure to watch your build!

Thanks Greg!
  It is these models made at the beginning of the last century that inspire me. :) 

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10 hours ago, shipman said:

Knowing what a clever chappy you are, Valeriy, I'm sooooo disappointed your hull plating strakes aren't all brass and riveted to scale.🤸‍♀️

Sorry, I didn't mean to upset you!  But this means that I have room to develop my professional skills. ;) 

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21 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

Here in the US we call this stuff Bondo

3M developed a UV activated Bondo and it sounded like the cat's meow so I purchased a can and proceeded to use it on filling the body panel on a car I was restoring (I can't remember which one). Once I had the panel filled I sat it out in the sun for the recommended amount of time and it was still soft. I allowed another couple of hours, still soft. I let that stupid panel sit for two days in the sun and it never hardened.  I finally had to dig and scrape every bit of that worthless product off the panel. UV activated Bondo sounds great and might work......if you live on Venus. 

 

 Roger, if you requiring more working time use less hardener. Work with small batches versus one large batch, slow and steady wins the race. 

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Incredible work!

 

Did you just layer up the masking tape to make thickness, and then apply the putty?

 

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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49 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Incredible work!

 

Did you just layer up the masking tape to make thickness, and then apply the putty?

 

Yes, GrandpaPhill, that’s right.
  Strips of adhesive tape in 2-3 layers, depending on the required thickness of the putty strip. It must be taken into account that liquid putty has its own amount of shrinkage when drying.

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Valeriy,

thanks for sharing your technique in applying the "putty-belts".  I was`nt familiar with that methode before you showed it. You did a super job and its very inspiring and I asume it mut be a nice job for modelers who have experience and a steady hand with "Gips-Stuckarbeiten" structures. I am wondering if it may be possible to combine the way you do it and the way I usually do my hull metal-plating riveting

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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11 minutes ago, Mirabell61 said:

Valeriy,

thanks for sharing your technique in applying the "putty-belts".  I was`nt familiar with that methode before you showed it. You did a super job and its very inspiring and I asume it mut be a nice job for modelers who have experience and a steady hand with "Gips-Stuckarbeiten" structures. I am wondering if it may be possible to combine the way you do it and the way I usually do my hull metal-plating riveting

 

Nils

Nils, I think that it is impossible to show the riveting of sheets using this method. Because after the putty has dried, it must be treated with sandpaper. During this operation, all riveting will be destroyed.

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