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Ferrari 288 GTO Yellow by CDW - FINISHED - Fujimi Enthusiast Series - 1:24 Scale


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Acquired as a "rescue kit" in a trade with a fellow modeler over 30 years ago is this 1:24 scale Fujimi Enthusiast Series Ferrari 288 GTO Yellow. When acquired, the car body had a horrendous black primer paint job that needed stripping. After stripping, I applied a white primer and after that, put everything back inside the box where it has resided ever since, never seeing the light of day until now. The kit is of late 1980's vintage and was cutting edge 'plasticology' back then. The level of detail and molding of it still holds its own, even today. The Fujimi Enthusiast series of kits are among my all-time favorite car model kits. With all that said, I hope to bring this old kit back to life with a decent finish and level of detail. it should make a nice shelf model and will add to the Ferrari stable.

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Edited by CDW
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This  will  be  good  -  gotta  love a  Farrari.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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I remember seeing quite a few of these Ferrari, when I was living on the French Riviera. The most interesting was to cross the border and go to the "wealthy" towns right behind the border. There, you could see all the rich Italian kids parading in their Ferrari's and hooting all the Bella Ragazzas in the streets.

 

One may wonder why the people were so affluent in these border towns: Simply because what they were selling was tax free and not taxed at 33% like most so called luxury products, on the French side. The greediness of the French government, made the fortune of these Italian folks.

 

Yves

Edited by yvesvidal
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5 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

I remember seeing quite a few of these Ferrari, when I was leaving on the French Riviera. The most interesting was to cross the border and go to the "wealthy" towns right behind the border. There, you could see all the rich Italian kids parading in their Ferrari's and hooting all the Bella Ragazzas in the streets.

 

One may wonder why the people were so affluent in these border towns: Simply because what they were selling was tax free and not taxed at 33% like most so called luxury products, on the French side. The greediness of the French government, made the fortune of these Italian folks.

 

Yves

Did you ever hoot at the Bella Regazzas, Yves? I sure did when I was young. Never owned a Ferrari, though. Had to find other ways to gain their interest.

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14 hours ago, king derelict said:

Looks like this is going to be a beautiful model

Your bike has a lot mor Regazza appeal than my old BSA Bantam back in the day

Alan

I once owned a Lightning. She leaked oil all over the place and was a vibration machine at speeds. Had those weird (to me) nut and bolt sizes that weren't metric or SAE and had to grind down SAE wrenches to have a set I could work with when needed. When I owned that BSA, parts or tools from the UK were practically unobtanium in the USA. If you ordered something, it literally took months to get it. Nevertheless, I was attracted to machines from the UK, owning at different times a Triumph TR4A, an MGB as well. The TR4A was my favorite.

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17 hours ago, CDW said:

A cold snap can through today. I had to wear socks. Rode around looking for Bella Regazzas. 😀

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Craig, you were not in the right place with your bike. You need to go to more exclusive locations:

 

miss-ferrari-288-gto-bubble-gum-artem-oleynik.jpg.714fc22f5ca3ad90edbe651ea723db35.jpg

 

Notice the  Gucci belt, bubble gum .....and the Yves Saint Laurent purse !

 

Yves

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The Ferrari 288 GTO yellow body was set aside for paint drying/curing time. Yesterday I wet sanded it with 4000 grit. As I kept looking at it, it just seemed to me the yellow was not the correct shade for Ferrari. I would have sworn the Mr Color yellow I used was the same as the paint on my Enzo Ferrari I built a couple of years ago, and that color seemed perfect to me. So, I put the two models side by side for a close examination and sure enough, the Enzo Ferrari shade of yellow was a tad darker than what was on the 288 GTO. My instinct was right, the current project was NOT the same color as the former one. So, I went back and found my build thread for the Enzo, and sure enough, the paint brand and color I used for the Enzo was Splash paint, Giallo Modena color. Lucky for me, I had the remainder of the unused portion from the Enzo project. However, the paint was far too thick, I suppose that much of the reducer evaporated out over the past two years. I took a chance and reduced it to a viscosity I felt was appropriate using Mr Color Levelling Thinner. I wasn't certain the two would be compatible even though both are lacquer paints. To my delight, it seems all will be fine. I sprayed on the Splash Giallo Modena shade of yellow and am MUCH more satisfied with the results. The shade of yellow looks perfect to me. Splash paints dry flat and require subsequent clear coats to give a deep shine. I will give the model at least a week drying time before applying a clear coat.

 

 

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Edited by CDW
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11 hours ago, CDW said:

The Ferrari 288 GTO yellow body was set aside for paint drying/curing time. Yesterday I wet sanded it with 4000 grit. As I kept looking at it, it just seemed to me the yellow was not the correct shade for Ferrari.

Indeed, I refrained to comment earlier, but the earlier yellow was too 'cold', now it is much better. To many, red is the color for a Ferrari, but, personally, I think the nothing can beat a yellow Ferrari.

 

Coming back to the color, I read that the best substrate for yellow is actually pink. I am surprised and I never tried it, just mentioning as a curiosity. 

 

Very nice work on your Ferrari, curious to see more.

Dan

Current build : Mayflower - AL 1:64Lady Nelson - Amati Victory 1:64

Completed non-ship builds : Spitfire MK I - 1:48Arado 196B - 1:32, Sea Fury - 1:48F-15C Eagle - 1:48Hawker Tempest Mk.V - 1:48F104S Starfighter - 1:48

 

"The most effective way to do it, is to do it" - Amelia Earhart

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Craig, I thought your original yellow was looking more like a Corvette. This shade seems better for a Ferrari, although I'm of the Ferrari red school. 😉😁 Don't rush this finish. I expect another jewel. 😄

 

Dan, I've read that about a pink undercoat for yellow. Several builders of model railroad refrigerator cars espouse this idea. And it work well for them. Badger makes a pink primer in their Stynylrez line and Ammo by Mig sells it also. Mig's line is rebottled Badger paint.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

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Member Nautical Research Guild

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4 hours ago, Danstream said:

 

Coming back to the color, I read that the best substrate for yellow is actually pink. I am surprised and I never tried it, just mentioning as a curiosity. 

 

Dan

Thanks for the comments Dan, Ken. Pink primer makes sense and will give it a try next yellow paint job i do.

 

Yellow is always one of the more difficult colors to get right for 

me.

10 minutes ago, Canute said:

Craig, . 😄

 

Dan, I've read that about a pink undercoat for yellow. Several builders of model railroad refrigerator cars espouse this idea. And it work well for them. Badger makes a pink primer in their Stynylrez line and Ammo by Mig sells it also. Mig's line is rebottled Badger paint

Edited by CDW
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Mr Surfacer makes a pink primer.  I haven't used it yet, but did use a Tamiya pink rattle can primer to prime a bright red Triumph build that I've been working on here and there.  I didn't test the red on a white prime coat so can't tell you what the difference was, but the red with the pink primer was nice and vibrant.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

I'm having a difficult time with the turbocharger assemblies. There are many parts to each side of the assemblies and the challenging part is finding a correct way to assemble so as all line up properly in the end.

At this point, I need to disassemble what I've done and start over again, without destroying critical parts in the process. I'll even need to disassemble the headers as well as the covers that sit atop the injectors.

 

The areas I highlighted in yellow on pages 3, 4, and 6, give an idea of the complexity of the turbocharger pieces and how they must align. 

122969-21-instructions highlighted turbo chargers.pdf

Edited by CDW
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12 hours ago, CDW said:

I'm having a difficult time with the turbocharger assemblies. There are many parts to each side of the assemblies and the challenging part is finding a correct way to assemble so as all line up properly in the end.

At this point, I need to disassemble what I've done and start over again, without destroying critical parts in the process. I'll even need to disassemble the headers as well as the covers that sit atop the injectors.

 

The areas I highlighted in yellow on pages 3, 4, and 6, give an idea of the complexity of the turbocharger pieces and how they must align. 

122969-21-instructions highlighted turbo chargers.pdf 12.58 MB · 3 downloads

That's unfortunate, but thanks for the heads up.  I actually bought my own copy of this kit off of ebay a few weeks back.  Not sure when I'll start on it, I've got way too many things in my stash and really want to wrap up the Sopwith Camel before doing another car.  But yes, that engine looks pretty tricky.  What you've done so far looks excellent; hope you can recover with out too much grief.

 

- Gary

 

Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel

Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th  Annapolis Wherry

 

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10 hours ago, gsdpic said:

That's unfortunate, but thanks for the heads up.  I actually bought my own copy of this kit off of ebay a few weeks back.  Not sure when I'll start on it, I've got way too many things in my stash and really want to wrap up the Sopwith Camel before doing another car.  But yes, that engine looks pretty tricky.  What you've done so far looks excellent; hope you can recover with out too much grief.

 

Thanks Gary.

Glad you are seeing/reading this before you start your model. Hopefully we can learn from each other's mistakes and solutions to problem areas. I should have known I was likely to run into issues without careful planning on these particular assemblies. The first clue is when you realize there are no aides built in for correct alignment of the pieces. Even now, it's going to take some guesswork to find the correct approach. I'll try to photograph the steps I take so I can share what works (hopefully). I plan to work on this conundrum for a couple of hours today to try and straighten it all out. 

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I wonder about first sticking at least some of the pieces together with plain white glue until you get things aligned, so that it is easier to undo.  Then once it is together use regular plastic cement.  Though that might be hard to do without messing up the paint so may require touch up.

 

- Gary

 

Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel

Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th  Annapolis Wherry

 

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25 minutes ago, gsdpic said:

I wonder about first sticking at least some of the pieces together with plain white glue until you get things aligned, so that it is easier to undo.  Then once it is together use regular plastic cement.  Though that might be hard to do without messing up the paint so may require touch up.

 

First of all, I recommend all the individual pieces be painted first, before any assembly. In retrospect, I don't see a benefit in temporary gluing. I'm working out the correct assembly steps as I write this and keeping my fingers crossed because I believe I have found the best sequence to follow. I'll write some more on this and provide some photos of the steps I took later on tonight or tomorrow.

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How I would go about it?

 

Tube glue, Good old Testors tube glue...  Yep... Don't ever forget where you came from.... {chuckle}

 

The reason? Tube glue takes time to harden up allowing you to shift the parts around a bit before it sets... but it will not glue paint... so I would paint in sub-assemblys as I go along... 

 

I always keep a couple of tubes around exactly for this type of application...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

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Mea Culpa: I erred when I followed the instructions sequentially rather than looking further ahead in the instructions first, then looking at photo references of the 1:1 car.

 

The kit offers the option of displaying the engine separately on an engine stand. If I had intended to do that, following sequentially would not have been a problem, but that's not what I wanted. I wanted to display my engine inside the chassis, inside the car. Again, looking at photos of the 1:1 car is essential to getting this complicated turbocharger assembly right. The instructions do a poor job of pointing this out, but it may be a language barrier problem. I can't read Japanese so I have no idea what the instructions may or may not say about sequence, but the photos in the instructions certainly don't point it all out clearly.

 

Here are 1:1 photos of how the complete engine and turbocharger assemblies would look.

Ferrari-288-GTO-engine-2-1-2985269756.jpg.6ed704a36d1d21b8b7b93542139f2a78.jpgFerrari-288-GTO-engine-3-1-1451714111.jpg.ae04c8566b61319a4b70974693b0058b.jpg

 

Here are photos of the 1:1 car/chassis with the engine and turbochargers inside the chassis/car.

 

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I found that I first needed to glue the headers to the parts labeled E36 and E37 in the instructions. Next I attached parts E53 and E57 to the turbochargers and then attached those to the collector box D7. Last, attach parts E29 and D36 to the turbocharger and header assemblies as seen here.

 

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The chassis and components shown here are assembled and painted before installing the engine assembly. The remainder of the turbocharger parts, the air breather boxes as well as the injector covers are only installed after the engine is in place inside the chassis.

 

My engine and breather boxes are dry-fitted here in the chassis for purpose of explanations of the sequence to follow. Do not assemble all the turbocharger parts as one assembly. The only way that could possibly work out okay is if you intend to display the engine on a stand rather than inside the car. 

 

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