Nabopolassar King of Babylon and Daffadar, Skinners Horse by king derelict - Art Girona - 54 mm

[king derelict]

A quiet Sunday morning and a bit more progress. I completed the turban, started the belts and cummerbund. I got brave and added the whites of the eye which I guess commits me to doing the pupils. Some touching up to do with the belts but I am happy with the face. I added a black wash to the beard and I like it.

I need to decide on the next step. The guide picture shows a lot of fine detail patterns on the sash and the turban. Thin stripes of red and brown on the yellow. I'm inclining to just going with some broad stripes seeing as this is my first figure and I want to end up with something I feel okay with rather than a shameful mess. I suspect the guy that painted the figure for the guide might have done a few other figures before attempting that one

I'm also looking for a bit of advice. I am wondering whether to try to use a wash to bring out the details and whether to spray a clear coat onto the figure before attempting the wash. Any thoughts or advice?

I bought this rather odd-looking device after browsing the DSPIAE range. Its a hand stabiliser to try to control motion when painting detail or using tweezers on small parts. I'm still adapting to working with it and it seems very helpful. I will definitely be using it when I get brave enough to try to paint the pupils.

Thanks you all for looking in and for the encouraging comments and suggestions

 

Alan

 

 

 

 

[Javlin]

You know Alan something I read the other day about the eyelid always covers half the eye........I have always done figures as Bug Eyes then something to keep in mind...you may already know this?Keep up the good work.

[Old Collingwood]

Looking good  Alan,   I do washes  over my  28mm   figures  but how well  I would  get  on  doing that  at this  scale  - I dont know,  you  could  try  a  very  slightly darker  shade  of Yellow  and  paint  the  shadows,  then  a  slightly  lighter shade of Yellow  and  dry brush  the  highlights  and  raised  areas,   I haven't actually  successfully  painted  any larger  scale  figures.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

31 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

I haven't actually  successfully  painted  any larger  scale  figures.

Only cause you haven't tried yet brother...

 

Doing them as small as you have been doing should make the larger ones easier I imagine... Anyway I would have a lot of confidence in your ability to paint any figure at this point...

[Old Collingwood]

43 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Only cause you haven't tried yet brother...

 

Doing them as small as you have been doing should make the larger ones easier I imagine... Anyway I would have a lot of confidence in your ability to paint any figure at this point...

Thank you  kindly brother.

 

OC.

[mtaylor]

Hmm.. that hand stabiliser looks like an interesting tool.  How big is it and how is it used?  I've familiar with the old sign painters method using a long stick of wood but not sure how something that small would work.

[Jack12477]

31 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Hmm.. that hand stabiliser looks like an interesting tool.  How big is it and how is it used?  I've familiar with the old sign painters method using a long stick of wood but not sure how something that small would work.

I think it's the same concept Mark. 

[Roger Pellett]

I haven’t painted any 54mm for over a year but recently became interested in doing so between work on my current ship modeling project.  Like the kit ship my figure stash has too many figures representing different interests when I bought them.  My first step is to finish my collection of American Civil War figures starting with the last of several mounted Union Cavalry Men.  My objective is to improve my technique before moving onto more difficult subjects. I have outfitted myself with a wet palette, mechanical paint mixer, and fingernail striping brushes should arrive soon.

 

My first subject is the Cavalry horse.  I became interested in trying the technique of “pre-shading” via posts on building a Titanic model here on MSW.  The idea seems to shade selected primed areas with a dark color and then paint over with tin coats of a lighter color.  The horse has large enough areas to allow airbrushing.  Using it on figures might not work.

 

Roger

Edited May 19 by Roger Pellett

[king derelict]

On 5/19/2024 at 3:50 PM, Javlin said:

You know Alan something I read the other day about the eyelid always covers half the eye........I have always done figures as Bug Eyes then something to keep in mind...you may already know this?Keep up the good work.

Thanks Jav. That is a good tip. I have seen some great painted figures with pop eyes and it turns them into cartoon figures. I would rather leave the eyes if I can't get it right. I'm still working up the courage to attempt the pupils

Alan

[king derelict]

On 5/19/2024 at 3:58 PM, Old Collingwood said:

Looking good  Alan,   I do washes  over my  28mm   figures  but how well  I would  get  on  doing that  at this  scale  - I dont know,  you  could  try  a  very  slightly darker  shade  of Yellow  and  paint  the  shadows,  then  a  slightly  lighter shade of Yellow  and  dry brush  the  highlights  and  raised  areas,   I haven't actually  successfully  painted  any larger  scale  figures.

 

OC.

Thank you OC, I think your suggestion is better than just using brown or black washes. I watched a couple of videos which recommended the same technique

Alan

[king derelict]

On 5/19/2024 at 4:31 PM, Egilman said:

Only cause you haven't tried yet brother...

 

Doing them as small as you have been doing should make the larger ones easier I imagine... Anyway I would have a lot of confidence in your ability to paint any figure at this point...

Exactly; its a bigger canvas to showcase your skills

Alan

[king derelict]

On 5/19/2024 at 5:37 PM, mtaylor said:

Hmm.. that hand stabiliser looks like an interesting tool.  How big is it and how is it used?  I've familiar with the old sign painters method using a long stick of wood but not sure how something that small would work.

Mark

I think its the same sort of thing. I think it will only be useful for working over a small area but that's really what I want it for. It certainly firms up my uncertain brush when it comes to painting details.

This is the guide that was inside the box

Alan

[king derelict]

On 5/19/2024 at 7:17 PM, Roger Pellett said:

I haven’t painted any 54mm for over a year but recently became interested in doing so between work on my current ship modeling project.  Like the kit ship my figure stash has too many figures representing different interests when I bought them.  My first step is to finish my collection of American Civil War figures starting with the last of several mounted Union Cavalry Men.  My objective is to improve my technique before moving onto more difficult subjects. I have outfitted myself with a wet palette, mechanical paint mixer, and fingernail striping brushes should arrive soon.

 

My first subject is the Cavalry horse.  I became interested in trying the technique of “pre-shading” via posts on building a Titanic model here on MSW.  The idea seems to shade selected primed areas with a dark color and then paint over with tin coats of a lighter color.  The horse has large enough areas to allow airbrushing.  Using it on figures might not work.

 

Roger

I will be very interested to see how the shading works out on a horse. I have a Historex one in the pile which I bought to finally satisfy an early teenage want. As I remember back in the late sixties Historex recommended using oils.

 

Alan

[king derelict]

Yesterday was another day that tries the patience of men. I was adding some highlights to the tunic of the Yellow Boy and the glue (Gorilla Glue) I used to secure the base to the pill container being used as a handle cracked away and the figure dropped. It landed hard, the base separated and the head fell off again. I decided to try 15 minute epoxy to resecure everything and had just placed the head back and thought it was settled when it fell off AGIN. Only this time it landed smack in the little tray of mixed epoxy and got a liberal coat. I gave it a liberal spray of alcohol which I had handy and wiped it off as best I could. Of course most of the paint came off too.

I switched to five minute epoxy and tried again and this time I think I got a good bond. Activity was suspended for the day to reconsider and repair the shower.

I initially thought of going back and air brushing the black and white undercoats but I suspect I wasn't able to get all the epoxy off and if so then over spraying it was going to obscure details.

I decided to use white primer hand brushed where needed and after it was dry, this morning, I started repainting. I may have lost some of the pre-shading on the turban but I think its good enough to carry on. I can try using different shades to deepen the folds. I see a couple of spots on the face which may need attention too then back to qorking on the details

I got ambitious and started adding the basic paint to Nabopolassar. In some ways it might be a simpler figure to work on. Its a great sculpt regardless.. The tan colour is an undercoat for the gold decorations that will follow - at least that's the idea.

Thanks for looking in and for the likes and comments

Alan

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jack12477]

Sounds like Mr Btfsplk paid you a visit.  Nice recovery ! Folds look good.

 

Edited May 21 by Jack12477

[Old Collingwood]

Youa re  certainly being tested  there  Alan  -  keep  going  mate   it will  work out  in the end.

 

OC.

[Landlubber Mike]

Really nice job Alan!  I recently picked up that Dspiae stabilizer as well.  I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but even though I have pretty steady hands at the moment, there have been times where this would have come in handy.