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HMS Victory by gil middleton - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:72


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Gil,

 

You are absolutely correct. We are our worst critics.

You have no choice but to make it right for yourself because of all people you know it is there!

 

I for one greatly appreciate your expertise and attention to details.

 

Me bored?  Not one iota!

 

Thank you

 

Alan

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

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Gil - I can see that it makes a big difference. Very nice color choice!

Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren

Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18

On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, 

 

Its a sailor's Life for me! :10_1_10:

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Gil,

 

Well worth the effort. You'll be able to sleep tonight. Looks great, big difference.

 

Happy modeling,

Len

Happy modeling,

 

Len

 

Current build: HMS Bellerophon semi-scratch from plans of Victory Models HMS Vanguard 

Drydock:  MS Constitution

Completed builds: MS AVS, scratch built Syren, Victory models HMS Fly

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Gil,

 

I can't believe you just did that!!! (says he who pulled his whole stern off ;) )

 

That must have been a right bi#%£ of a job, but the difference is simply WOW!

 

My hat is off to you Sir (again).

 

And no, we never get bored with your log Gil. :)

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Gil,

 

I've been following, mostly silently as this ship is so above my artistic station, that being said the "fix" looks so much better. Now it won't irritate you any more. That peace of mind also has value (:-)

 

Michael

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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Thanks you all for your support, John, Michael, Alan, dragzz, Floyd Bob and Dave B (D Borgens). And not one of you said "You're crazy."

Grant, I suspect you had the same feelings when you removed the stern. A couple days into the process, "What on earth was I thinking of?"  It helped that I had sanded and stained most blocks with water based English Oak (Minwax) so that the brown oak wash didn't adversely affect the blocks.  And Len, I do sleep at night, perhaps not so much that she looks better, but that I didn't destroy it.  I'm pleased with the result and glad I went to the trouble. And I've taken Popeye's thoughts to heart, staining the lines going forward.

David (dgbot), I've used Minwax stains, but the problem is that lines or rope coils with C/A on them, will not take up stain producing a very mottled appearance.  A paint wash covers treated or untreated line.  Working in our den, I use only water based paints or stains.  I've found that staining lines with English Oak (Minwax; some prefer Fruitwood)) produces a very similar result to Brown Oak Detail Wash (equal parts Brown Oak Wash (Testors), Dust (Polyscale) and Acrylic thinner).  We simply have two options for treating lines, staining and a paint wash to get the consistent results I was looking for.

 

Cheers, Gil

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/485-hmsHMS Victory by Gil Middleton - JoTika - 1:72

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As my Grandfather once said " There are many ways to skin a cat."   You should always choose the one that is easiest for you.

David B

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Gil,

 

Have a third choice:  RIT dye

I was reading the below attached link of a thread on MSW from Bob that gives wonderful information on dyeing lines.  I have tried using only the dark brown liquid RIT (also comes in powder which needs to be mixed)  on DMC cotton line  as an experiment (2 Teaspoons to 16 oz water) with satisfied results.  RIT instructions say to add salt for cotton.  I've tried with and without which gave same results.  There's a link on that thread that shows where his original info came from (gives what to use for standing and running rigging color).  It also said to use Kodak wetting agent, but I also found isn't needed for the thread I used.  Probably needed if line is treated or made from other material (only a guess by me).  I found all six colors recommended by Bob at JoAnn Fabrics ($4 a bottle).  Amazon and other web sites sell it.  After my experiment I sent Bob a PM stating my results, he did mention he has only used the powder where I used the premixed liquid.  I just wrapped 24 ft thread around my palm and dropped in a jar of the hot water dye I prepared for about 1/2 hour.  When I need to make more just heat the jar in microwave and drop in another section of thread.  Very easy and little cleanup.

I have used minwax Jacobean and General Finishers Expresso stains before which gives the desired color, but these do harden the line where the dye keeps the line texture the same.

Hope you didn't mind me jumping in on your thread, but think you and others would appreciate this information.

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5396-domanoff-workshop-planetary-ropewalk/

Happy modeling,

 

Len

 

Current build: HMS Bellerophon semi-scratch from plans of Victory Models HMS Vanguard 

Drydock:  MS Constitution

Completed builds: MS AVS, scratch built Syren, Victory models HMS Fly

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Very nicely done, Gil.   The difference is eye-catching to say the least.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I was going to go along the same line....with the Rit dyes,  but I was told that over time,  it would deteriorate the thread,  and cause premature breakage.   that's when I put it back on the shelf and went with the India Ink......I was doing standing rigging thread at the time.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Len, Many thanks for adding the link to Bob Wescott's notes on RIT dyes.  A great addition to methods to achieve a realistic appearance of ship's lines.  I've added it to my "favorites" for future use.  Stains do change the feel of the line, although, once the line is set, there is probably little difference.  As far along as I am, I'll likely continue with the simplest course.  Popeye's comments raises visions of peoples' clothing falling off as threads deteriorate, although Judy assures me that RIT dyes have been used for decades.  Forgive me Popeye but I couldn't resist.

Thanks Mark.  The white rigging had been bothering me for a long time.

Cheers, Gil  

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/485-hmsHMS Victory by Gil Middleton - JoTika - 1:72

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That was worth it :-)

 

Cheers, Daniel

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit), USS Constitution 1:96 (Revell) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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Gil,

 

Just an FYI...  Hahn also used RIT to dye wood. He wanted a "worn" blue so dyed the wood and then lightly sanded it.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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With so little rigging to go (Braces and ropework at the bitts, kevels and pin rails), I elected to use what is perhaps the simplest method of staining the rigging.  Roughly measuring the thread for a particular line (in this case the driver boom lift tackle) and using a reverse hook, the line was pulled through the stain (Water based English Oak), allowed a minute or two to penetrate, then gently wiped with paper towel and hung to dry.

 

post-68-0-17599900-1393024074_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-96560200-1393024113_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-19899300-1393024148_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-17163800-1393024178_thumb.jpg

 

Throat halyard for the driver gaff ready to rig.

 

post-68-0-28517400-1393024458_thumb.jpg

 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/485-hmsHMS Victory by Gil Middleton - JoTika - 1:72

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DRIVER BOOM

 

Driver boom and gaff after sanding to shape.

 

post-68-0-21909300-1393024696_thumb.jpg

 

Boom tapered, saddle fitted and sanded.

 

post-68-0-97897100-1393024773_thumb.jpg

 

"Iron bands" applied. (Styrene strips)

 

post-68-0-85490100-1393024841_thumb.jpg

 

Parral around mizzen mast.

 

post-68-0-62390900-1393024911_thumb.jpg

 

Sheet tackle rigged.

 

post-68-0-52779300-1393024959_thumb.jpg

 

Foot ropes, lifts and guys (vangs) attached at end of boom.

 

post-68-0-88200800-1393025057_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-82389900-1393025076_thumb.jpg

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/485-hmsHMS Victory by Gil Middleton - JoTika - 1:72

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Gil,

Great idea in staining your rigging thread! An sollution for many of us with less than perfect rigging thread.

 

I also like your fine detailing on the spars. Insprational!

 

Peter

Build Log: Billing - Cutty Sark

 

In The Gallery: HMS Unicorn, HMAV Bounty, L'Etoile, Marie Jeanne, Lilla Dan, Zeeschouw "Irene"

 

A Toast: To a wind that blows, A ship that goes, And the lass that loved a sailor!

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Continuing  with the Driver boom.

 

Lift blocks

 

post-68-0-88995100-1393025220_thumb.jpg

 

Lift tackle

 

post-68-0-34108500-1393025265_thumb.jpg

 

Driver boom lift

 

post-68-0-90845400-1393025316_thumb.jpg

 

Rigging the base for the lift tackle with a tail attached to the **** end of the block.

 

post-68-0-03331400-1393025409_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-34569500-1393025430_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-15101800-1393025463_thumb.jpg

 

Attached to the channel

 

post-68-0-83429400-1393025595_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-76608400-1393025741_thumb.jpg

 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/485-hmsHMS Victory by Gil Middleton - JoTika - 1:72

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And finishing the driver boom.

 

Rigging the guy blocks

 

post-68-0-31299300-1393026021_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-55348800-1393026062_thumb.jpg

 

Parral.  Gloss removed with clear flat acrylc.

 

post-68-0-27628800-1393026149_thumb.jpg

 

Fully rigged driver boom.  The ship has gained about 6 1/2" to reach 55" or about 140 cm.  The admiral asks "Where do you plan to dock this ship?"  In the living room????

 

post-68-0-97553600-1393026406_thumb.jpg

 

Next, The driver gaff.

Edited by gil middleton

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/485-hmsHMS Victory by Gil Middleton - JoTika - 1:72

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outstanding work Gil   museums and art galleries are hungry for work like this!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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I have room Gil  :)

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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LOL im taking notes to avoid the staining issues, thankyou yet again for all the hard work you are putting into this build and sharing it with us

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Peter, 
We are looking forward to a five month cruise to Alaska.  Early May in Victoria, mid May in Bella Bella / Shearwater.  When do you find out your schedule?  I've not been to the Old Bella Bella Coast Guard Station.

Popeye, Our home is a museum featuring 3 old ships and one old modeler.

Thanks Edwin and Kevin, but Augie and David, be careful what you wish for.  You'd get to pay the thousands in shipping costs.

Cheers, Gil

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/485-hmsHMS Victory by Gil Middleton - JoTika - 1:72

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On with the Driver Gaff.  Preparing to rig the gaff.

 

post-68-0-18251900-1393112089_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-93464000-1393112121_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-99941000-1393112309_thumb.jpg

 

Driver boom and gaff rigged.

 

post-68-0-53762100-1393112405_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-13614400-1393112447_thumb.jpg

 

Topgallant and topmast yard braces to blocks on driver gaff. Driver gaff vangs (or guys) with tackle leading to the taffrail.

 

post-68-0-84558200-1393112610_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-49262800-1393112636_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-88580200-1393112663_thumb.jpg

 

Cont......in next post.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/485-hmsHMS Victory by Gil Middleton - JoTika - 1:72

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Peak halyard to poop deck, port.  Throat halyard similar to starboard.

 

post-68-0-73020600-1393112972_thumb.jpg

 

Looking aft from starboard.

 

post-68-0-34893600-1393113034_thumb.jpg

 

End of driver gaff

 

post-68-0-77231000-1393113095_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-94264400-1393113113_thumb.jpg

 

Now on with the fun stuff.  Gil

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/485-hmsHMS Victory by Gil Middleton - JoTika - 1:72

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